Gulf Coast ECOtecs
*sigh* Trey... let HUX do it!! i'm tellin you man..
also when will you be needing help??
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/new-2-5-qtp-e-cutout-188377/
also when will you be needing help??
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/new-2-5-qtp-e-cutout-188377/
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Hux has tuned 1 lol
But you know how I am Adam. I like doing this stuff myself so I can learn.
I can't make that drive anyways.
That cut-out won't work for me son. I need a 3" cut-out.
But you know how I am Adam. I like doing this stuff myself so I can learn.
I can't make that drive anyways.
That cut-out won't work for me son. I need a 3" cut-out.
Last edited by rockSTAR_SS; Oct 10, 2009 at 06:58 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
HUX has only tuned 1... but my m62 setup made the EXACT same numbers as Wicked and Area's m62 setups.
James knows what he's doin... he has tuned rocket's KB explorer and is tuning his TT G8.
buuuuttt... experience LSJ wise.. Wicked all day, so for that... touche lol
James knows what he's doin... he has tuned rocket's KB explorer and is tuning his TT G8.
buuuuttt... experience LSJ wise.. Wicked all day, so for that... touche lol
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Tuning for any vehicle is the same. There is no specific way to actually tune for any individual car. A good tuner like James can tune any car even if he specializes on one specific brand.
However, there are certain aspects that comes with each vehicle that need to be addressed. In no way am I doubting James. Adams car runs like a scalded dog. Anybody would prefer a model specific tuner over a generic tuner.
However, there are certain aspects that comes with each vehicle that need to be addressed. In no way am I doubting James. Adams car runs like a scalded dog. Anybody would prefer a model specific tuner over a generic tuner.
Nicely said. Saves me from typing trey.
Well never mind.
There is more to tuning than just tuning every car the same.
The LSJ does not necessarily like to be run at the same AFR as the evo.
So its always good for a tuner to know about a specific engine.
I would choose a wicked or an 47 tune any day over a generic.
Dustin I read this over on the rlforums and thought it should be posted over here since I have been wondering about lightweight flywheels.
I go to school at Wyotech and learned a lil bit about lightweight flywheels and how it effects the life of a clutch.
I was considering getting the fidanza flywheel to go with a GMPP upgraded clutch kit. In our lecture tonight we were learning about starting systems and how they connect to a flywheel to start the car. That lead to a discussion about custom flywheels.
I'm sure most of you with a custom clutch/flywheel combo notice that you usually have problems w/the clutch after about 15-20K miles. Well it's because of the flywheel. A lighter flywheel doesn't have as much inertia as a standard flywheel so it causes the car to work more when its under a load...such as starting in 1st gear from a stop and climbing up hills. Hence the reason the clutch wears faster.
They are great for race applications....for obvious reasons. The engine winds faster and frees up a few hp due to the lighter weight. But you'll be replacing your clutch after about 15-20K. This means its probably not a good idea to get a fidanza for daily driver applications...such as my car.
But just because you're buying an upgraded clutch doesn't mean you have to get the flywheel to go with it. So all you guys that use your RL as a DD (like me), just upgrade your clutch when needed and not get the fidanza flywheel. Your clutch life will be triple or longer than if you get the flywheel with it.
Just some food for thought there.
Well never mind.
There is more to tuning than just tuning every car the same.
The LSJ does not necessarily like to be run at the same AFR as the evo.
So its always good for a tuner to know about a specific engine.
I would choose a wicked or an 47 tune any day over a generic.
Dustin I read this over on the rlforums and thought it should be posted over here since I have been wondering about lightweight flywheels.
I go to school at Wyotech and learned a lil bit about lightweight flywheels and how it effects the life of a clutch.
I was considering getting the fidanza flywheel to go with a GMPP upgraded clutch kit. In our lecture tonight we were learning about starting systems and how they connect to a flywheel to start the car. That lead to a discussion about custom flywheels.
I'm sure most of you with a custom clutch/flywheel combo notice that you usually have problems w/the clutch after about 15-20K miles. Well it's because of the flywheel. A lighter flywheel doesn't have as much inertia as a standard flywheel so it causes the car to work more when its under a load...such as starting in 1st gear from a stop and climbing up hills. Hence the reason the clutch wears faster.
They are great for race applications....for obvious reasons. The engine winds faster and frees up a few hp due to the lighter weight. But you'll be replacing your clutch after about 15-20K. This means its probably not a good idea to get a fidanza for daily driver applications...such as my car.
But just because you're buying an upgraded clutch doesn't mean you have to get the flywheel to go with it. So all you guys that use your RL as a DD (like me), just upgrade your clutch when needed and not get the fidanza flywheel. Your clutch life will be triple or longer than if you get the flywheel with it.
Just some food for thought there.
Last edited by SaturnRL; Oct 11, 2009 at 02:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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That very good information and makes perfect sense. That person learned correctly.
However.
That isn't always the case. Other installation faults could factor into why a clutch goes out when it does. Not just installation faults, but driver error, quality defects, and heat are some other main killers of a clutch.
Not saying that you're a bad driver Dustin. I'm generally speaking here.
However.
That isn't always the case. Other installation faults could factor into why a clutch goes out when it does. Not just installation faults, but driver error, quality defects, and heat are some other main killers of a clutch.
Not saying that you're a bad driver Dustin. I'm generally speaking here.
good info but remember my car isnt a daily driver. its a weekend racer/ speeder. i drive the car like i stole it everytime. there is a big noticable difference in a lightweight flywheel than a stock heavyweight fly wheel. i noticed it when i raced my old boss's 05 modified poostang gt. went from him waxing me to me keeping up with him running gm stage 2 both times. i was talkin to my neighbor about it and he said that if u do get a lightweight flywheel you NEED to get the matching clutch to go with it. dont mismatch parts lke i did bc you will have the same problems as i am having unless u get the specs on them correct, which mines arent and i know how to fix them. when i go to sell this flywheel i will let the owner know about the proper way to install this or they will have the problems i am having. i know how to fix the problem but i dont want the set up anymore. i am just waitin on these ******** to send me my centerforce dfx. talking to alot of mechanics they all recoment it the best.
nah i am a bad driver bc i cant get the damn thing out of first unless i punch the gas. i cant drive slow or the car will jerk like a lonly young boy beatin off. my first clutch driven car, and i dont drive it EVERYDAY so yea i am a bad driver, but in actuallity i have only burned up 1 clutch, got another stock clutch, changed it just to change it, that mechanic didnt tighten down the bolts correctly and the clutch is still good they said but not sure. the clutch i have in now is doin the same thing as the other one, ryan with zzp helped me figure it out that its the flywheel, so now clutch number 5, is on the way one day. but its experience that comes in to play and i fucked up when i started ordering ****.
nah i am a bad driver bc i cant get the damn thing out of first unless i punch the gas. i cant drive slow or the car will jerk like a lonly young boy beatin off. my first clutch driven car, and i dont drive it EVERYDAY so yea i am a bad driver, but in actuallity i have only burned up 1 clutch, got another stock clutch, changed it just to change it, that mechanic didnt tighten down the bolts correctly and the clutch is still good they said but not sure. the clutch i have in now is doin the same thing as the other one, ryan with zzp helped me figure it out that its the flywheel, so now clutch number 5, is on the way one day. but its experience that comes in to play and i fucked up when i started ordering ****.
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It definitely makes a difference. But what aaron is saying is that actually the engine works harder to spin a lighter flywheel when under load because it has to spin more to make up for the loss in weight. A lighter flywheel only helps with centrifical force. Like a lightweight crank pulley. That's why they make such a difference. A .5 lb pulley, when spinning @ 5k rpms, can seem like it weighs so so much more than a .25 lb pulley spinning at the same speeds.
lightweight pullies are also smaller so they have less friction contact from the belt to slow them down. i had read somewhere a while back that it was ok to do 1 but not both. and i know more people that have more problems with the pullies than the flywheel
Trey Trey Trey.... Tisk Tisk
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=169079&page=9
Post 174
No way in hell i would put my pic in that gay ass thread.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=169079&page=9
Post 174
No way in hell i would put my pic in that gay ass thread.
Last edited by SaturnRL; Oct 11, 2009 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Nice find. You must've been interested to get that far into it.
GMPP clutch went in today. Slave cylinder distribution block won't seal off. So the car isn't driveable right now. I think the o-rings on the distribution block need replacing.
GMPP clutch went in today. Slave cylinder distribution block won't seal off. So the car isn't driveable right now. I think the o-rings on the distribution block need replacing.
I was bored at work and was out of threads to read at the RLF so i said lets see whats cracking on the shortbuss My first thought was WTF? I have auto pager for firefox so i can just scroll wheel though 60 pages and i see a yellow ss with a black hood. ERRRRk back up. lol its trey!
To be honest my first thought was to post these.......


They I also wanted you to take a look at this..
http://www.ionforums.com/forums/prob...eed-elbow.html
Post number 3
TVS 1900 3.6" pulley @ 22 psi.
To be honest my first thought was to post these.......


They I also wanted you to take a look at this..
http://www.ionforums.com/forums/prob...eed-elbow.html
Post number 3
TVS 1900 3.6" pulley @ 22 psi.
Last edited by SaturnRL; Oct 13, 2009 at 04:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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I figured out today when I got home from work that the cap they are talking about was in fact missing off of the distribution block. Kevin and I rolled the car back, found it on the ground, and then ran out of day light. It will be going back on tomorrow after work, and hopefully the clutch will finally prime up.
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Well the thing is, I never knew the specs to begin with. We just got lucky at rustys digging through coffee cans full of bolts at rustys house and found 2 bolts that fit in it. We also had to use a piece of all thread to press the new hub back on. So I really don't have a way of finding out what the thread count, bolt size, and length needs to be. I have done numerous searches and have come up empty handed.
I'm pretty certain I had the bolts in my craftsman tool set, but it was stolen out of codys truck at scraping
I'm pretty certain I had the bolts in my craftsman tool set, but it was stolen out of codys truck at scraping


