Dyno Day In April TBD-List needed
i haz some pictars too.....give me a few while i copy and paste
Last edited by mrsilent13; Apr 19, 2009 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost













Flux Capacitor has been removed from this one...



yes that dyno....def needed a bigger fan....my temps got up to 235...really fast...i need to look into some cooling mods...like i said before...maybe a better radiator....or add another fan to the radiator as well as to my intercooler
Last edited by mrsilent13; Apr 19, 2009 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hey guys before i make a thread tell me what you all think about this...
for a long time now i have been considering making my own spacer for the steering rack as well as for the rear trans mount, so i finally got a guy who does machine work and he needed me to work on his car. so he told me to "find out what works" well the best thing for temporary research was to use washers or some type of bushing... then i figured the washers will be easier to work with while fine tuning the size of the spacers...
so i went on over to lowes and bought a few different sizes and thickness of washers (hardened of coarse)
so this is what i came up with so far... i went with 7/16 flat "fender" washers for the steering 4 on each side = approx 1/2in slightly less.
then for the rear mount i used a combo of 3/8 in fender washers for the bottom were it goes against the sub frame, then just regular 3/8 in washers for a total of one fender and two reg's per bolt = approx 3/8 in tall
then for the mount's i also had another idear for that one... im getting sick of all the vibes but need stronger than stock inserts so..... i decided to mod my poly ones while i was at it. i used a 3/8 in drill bit and drilled 4 holes in the poly across from eachother leaving room for more if needed or bigger holes.
why am i sharing this with all of you? well i just got back from the test drive and i just cannot get this grin off my face
im so impressed with the results it unbelivable... the holes made a big difference but i think i might try slightly larger holes maybe 7/16 cause with the a/c on at idle it still shakes just a bit but not with it off.... and for bump steer, what bump steer? lol its completely gone! it even eliminated my trq steer which used to be terrible, also the tilting/rotating of the rear mount i think made the biggest difference out of everything i can now launch the car at 3000 and above with the wot box on the street and it takes off so smooth now its crazy it just spins the tires with out a hop at all not one.
i even decided to go as far as to dump the clutch (which felt so silky smooth) which i could never do. before i had to ride it out or it would hop just a little bit, now nothing at all. so then im like well this is to good to be true
so i stop and rev to 3500 and dump then lift then hammer it!!! this was always good for a bucking bronco before... now like butter just rolls the power in and out spinning not hopping
so how much did i pay for all this? $6
ok i know enough talking heres the pics... now i do warn that this is not the best route for the steering as it puts more stress on the bolt and a upgraded grade 5 or higher is recommended if you intended to leave it this way for good...








i will try less washer on the steering rack also. im gonna try 3 next... and maybe drill the holes bigger!
for a long time now i have been considering making my own spacer for the steering rack as well as for the rear trans mount, so i finally got a guy who does machine work and he needed me to work on his car. so he told me to "find out what works" well the best thing for temporary research was to use washers or some type of bushing... then i figured the washers will be easier to work with while fine tuning the size of the spacers...
so i went on over to lowes and bought a few different sizes and thickness of washers (hardened of coarse)
so this is what i came up with so far... i went with 7/16 flat "fender" washers for the steering 4 on each side = approx 1/2in slightly less.
then for the rear mount i used a combo of 3/8 in fender washers for the bottom were it goes against the sub frame, then just regular 3/8 in washers for a total of one fender and two reg's per bolt = approx 3/8 in tall
then for the mount's i also had another idear for that one... im getting sick of all the vibes but need stronger than stock inserts so..... i decided to mod my poly ones while i was at it. i used a 3/8 in drill bit and drilled 4 holes in the poly across from eachother leaving room for more if needed or bigger holes.
why am i sharing this with all of you? well i just got back from the test drive and i just cannot get this grin off my face
im so impressed with the results it unbelivable... the holes made a big difference but i think i might try slightly larger holes maybe 7/16 cause with the a/c on at idle it still shakes just a bit but not with it off.... and for bump steer, what bump steer? lol its completely gone! it even eliminated my trq steer which used to be terrible, also the tilting/rotating of the rear mount i think made the biggest difference out of everything i can now launch the car at 3000 and above with the wot box on the street and it takes off so smooth now its crazy it just spins the tires with out a hop at all not one.
i even decided to go as far as to dump the clutch (which felt so silky smooth) which i could never do. before i had to ride it out or it would hop just a little bit, now nothing at all. so then im like well this is to good to be true
so i stop and rev to 3500 and dump then lift then hammer it!!! this was always good for a bucking bronco before... now like butter just rolls the power in and out spinning not hoppingso how much did i pay for all this? $6
ok i know enough talking heres the pics... now i do warn that this is not the best route for the steering as it puts more stress on the bolt and a upgraded grade 5 or higher is recommended if you intended to leave it this way for good...








i will try less washer on the steering rack also. im gonna try 3 next... and maybe drill the holes bigger!
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Apr 19, 2009 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
no one could beat my 134 hp to the wheels. who's the big shot now. oh, and if that wasn't enough, how about the 160 tq. i had to leave early, but it was a great meet. glad i left before the cops showed.
The food was the ****. i ate 2 cheeseburgers, nachos, a chili-nacho cheese dog, chips, chocolate, soda and Hater-ade. good ****
i don't have internet at home any more, so wait till monday for pics (i'll upload at work)
so when's the next meet?
The food was the ****. i ate 2 cheeseburgers, nachos, a chili-nacho cheese dog, chips, chocolate, soda and Hater-ade. good ****
i don't have internet at home any more, so wait till monday for pics (i'll upload at work)
so when's the next meet?
heres all the video i got
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch-6I...e=channel_page
hey chris, did u ever get steves bump stops?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch-6I...e=channel_page
hey guys before i make a thread tell me what you all think about this...
for a long time now i have been considering making my own spacer for the steering rack as well as for the rear trans mount, so i finally got a guy who does machine work and he needed me to work on his car. so he told me to "find out what works" well the best thing for temporary research was to use washers or some type of bushing... then i figured the washers will be easier to work with while fine tuning the size of the spacers...
so i went on over to lowes and bought a few different sizes and thickness of washers (hardened of coarse)
so this is what i came up with so far... i went with 7/16 flat "fender" washers for the steering 4 on each side = approx 1/2in slightly less.
then for the rear mount i used a combo of 3/8 in fender washers for the bottom were it goes against the sub frame, then just regular 3/8 in washers for a total of one fender and two reg's per bolt = approx 3/8 in tall
then for the mount's i also had another idear for that one... im getting sick of all the vibes but need stronger than stock inserts so..... i decided to mod my poly ones while i was at it. i used a 3/8 in drill bit and drilled 4 holes in the poly across from eachother leaving room for more if needed or bigger holes.
why am i sharing this with all of you? well i just got back from the test drive and i just cannot get this grin off my face
im so impressed with the results it unbelivable... the holes made a big difference but i think i might try slightly larger holes maybe 7/16 cause with the a/c on at idle it still shakes just a bit but not with it off.... and for bump steer, what bump steer? lol its completely gone! it even eliminated my trq steer which used to be terrible, also the tilting/rotating of the rear mount i think made the biggest difference out of everything i can now launch the car at 3000 and above with the wot box on the street and it takes off so smooth now its crazy it just spins the tires with out a hop at all not one.
i even decided to go as far as to dump the clutch (which felt so silky smooth) which i could never do. before i had to ride it out or it would hop just a little bit, now nothing at all. so then im like well this is to good to be true
so i stop and rev to 3500 and dump then lift then hammer it!!! this was always good for a bucking bronco before... now like butter just rolls the power in and out spinning not hopping
so how much did i pay for all this? $6
ok i know enough talking heres the pics... now i do warn that this is not the best route for the steering as it puts more stress on the bolt and a upgraded grade 5 or higher is recommended if you intended to leave it this way for good...
i will try less washer on the steering rack also. im gonna try 3 next... and maybe drill the holes bigger!
for a long time now i have been considering making my own spacer for the steering rack as well as for the rear trans mount, so i finally got a guy who does machine work and he needed me to work on his car. so he told me to "find out what works" well the best thing for temporary research was to use washers or some type of bushing... then i figured the washers will be easier to work with while fine tuning the size of the spacers...
so i went on over to lowes and bought a few different sizes and thickness of washers (hardened of coarse)
so this is what i came up with so far... i went with 7/16 flat "fender" washers for the steering 4 on each side = approx 1/2in slightly less.
then for the rear mount i used a combo of 3/8 in fender washers for the bottom were it goes against the sub frame, then just regular 3/8 in washers for a total of one fender and two reg's per bolt = approx 3/8 in tall
then for the mount's i also had another idear for that one... im getting sick of all the vibes but need stronger than stock inserts so..... i decided to mod my poly ones while i was at it. i used a 3/8 in drill bit and drilled 4 holes in the poly across from eachother leaving room for more if needed or bigger holes.
why am i sharing this with all of you? well i just got back from the test drive and i just cannot get this grin off my face
im so impressed with the results it unbelivable... the holes made a big difference but i think i might try slightly larger holes maybe 7/16 cause with the a/c on at idle it still shakes just a bit but not with it off.... and for bump steer, what bump steer? lol its completely gone! it even eliminated my trq steer which used to be terrible, also the tilting/rotating of the rear mount i think made the biggest difference out of everything i can now launch the car at 3000 and above with the wot box on the street and it takes off so smooth now its crazy it just spins the tires with out a hop at all not one.
i even decided to go as far as to dump the clutch (which felt so silky smooth) which i could never do. before i had to ride it out or it would hop just a little bit, now nothing at all. so then im like well this is to good to be true
so i stop and rev to 3500 and dump then lift then hammer it!!! this was always good for a bucking bronco before... now like butter just rolls the power in and out spinning not hoppingso how much did i pay for all this? $6
ok i know enough talking heres the pics... now i do warn that this is not the best route for the steering as it puts more stress on the bolt and a upgraded grade 5 or higher is recommended if you intended to leave it this way for good...
i will try less washer on the steering rack also. im gonna try 3 next... and maybe drill the holes bigger!
hey chris, did u ever get steves bump stops?
Last edited by RooTBeeR; Apr 19, 2009 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
it will be billet alum and have machined in recess for the steering rack locators... to be honest i have seen the time attack one now im just having someone make one very very similar.
no, my tire is gonna blow soon lol... ******* stealership wants to steal $56 a piece for em
heres all the video i got
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch-6I...e=channel_page
hey chris, did u ever get steves bump stops?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch-6I...e=channel_page
hey chris, did u ever get steves bump stops?
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Apr 19, 2009 at 10:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
it will be billet alum and have machined in recess for the steering rack locators... to be honest i have seen the time attack one now im just having someone make one very very similar.
no, my tire is gonna blow soon lol... ******* stealership wants to steal $56 a piece for em
no, my tire is gonna blow soon lol... ******* stealership wants to steal $56 a piece for em
i cut a inch off... it was a failed experiment... lol now it rubs cause of the 235's
i never cut mine like the directions said so finally one day i cut em and now if i load it down or hit big bump it rubs
i never cut mine like the directions said so finally one day i cut em and now if i load it down or hit big bump it rubs
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Apr 19, 2009 at 11:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thanks to all of you guys for putting this event on, and making it happen. I had fun, and it was definitely worth the trip to hang out with all of you guys. I love putting faces to the screen names.
The shop was a great shop, with a very professional team can't beat the facilities and the BBQ! Lots of shops around the country dont host with that true kind of hospitality.
As for the people who say there were inconsistent results between cars. Look at the cars I tuned, very similar mods VERY similar power, the inconsistency you guys might see is the variance between the types of cars that were dynod, and how well they were running and or tuned. Sure the numbers were different from what you guys are used to hearing being slung around but now you know how you compare to the 15 or so cars that were up there on Saturday. Of course is your tune is below a 10 to 1 AFR your numbers are going to be crappy LOL
I can say many good things about the fun we all had, and about how cool you all were!
The shop was a great shop, with a very professional team can't beat the facilities and the BBQ! Lots of shops around the country dont host with that true kind of hospitality.
As for the people who say there were inconsistent results between cars. Look at the cars I tuned, very similar mods VERY similar power, the inconsistency you guys might see is the variance between the types of cars that were dynod, and how well they were running and or tuned. Sure the numbers were different from what you guys are used to hearing being slung around but now you know how you compare to the 15 or so cars that were up there on Saturday. Of course is your tune is below a 10 to 1 AFR your numbers are going to be crappy LOL
I can say many good things about the fun we all had, and about how cool you all were!
and my car no matter what would not hold more than 19psi but was spiking 23 and when i left it was boosting 26lbs till redline.... so i dont think they were loading my car right cause i got 288whp and 370wtrq lol its just silly its so stupid no matter what it wouldent make boost... like it had no load on it... then as soon as i left bam 26-27 psi muthafucka...
Yes, the Chili Cheeseburgers were the ****
Next time you guys want to setup a dyno day / tune day let me know.... I work closely with a Dyno shop in the Torrance area that is KNOWN for all the crazy cars they dyno / tune in the Honda world.... I've been there several times taking customers cars down and testing stuff... they have 3 dynos in house... I'm sure I can get us a good deal if we get a good amount of people to show up...
PS: Nice seeing most of you guys, sorry I took off early, I needed to get back since I had to go somewere yesterday.
-Karo
PS: Nice seeing most of you guys, sorry I took off early, I needed to get back since I had to go somewere yesterday.
-Karo
honestly it prolly couldnt get enough air in the back of that shopw to boost 27
cuz i know some guys with redicoulos numbers boosting 27 and they have huge industrial fans in front of their car when the dyno dont konw if they did on this dyno i didnt hear it
nice finally meeting some one you
cuz i know some guys with redicoulos numbers boosting 27 and they have huge industrial fans in front of their car when the dyno dont konw if they did on this dyno i didnt hear it
nice finally meeting some one you
Then go back and look at how much torque you make at that RPM and you will see that you make roughly 310 lbs of torque. If you then throw that true amount of torque into the equation it will calculate you out to making 336whp @ 5,700rpm.
Horsepower = (Torque*RPM)/5252
336= (310*5700)/5252
Don't believe me? Look @ 4,000 rpm where you make 186wtq. Calculate that out and you should have 141whp at that rpm, look at their graph and you only have 120whp at that rpm.
Both numbers I picked are sampling at exactly 17.5% lower than the Proper HP formula......... Interesting!
Also since HP and TQ have to equal each other @ 5252rpms, look at your graph. They don't even touch at 5252rpms! They touch at 5,800+ rpms.
Last edited by Psykostevo; Apr 20, 2009 at 06:49 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
















