Opinions. Experiences. Advice.


In chasing down my vibration issues I have decided I am just going to replace everything since the car is about to hit 70k anyways. Is there any reason to choose OEM control arms over Moog ones?

For tei rod ends I was just going to grab the Moog ones as well.

 

Aslo, what is the difference between the 2005-2007 FE5 arms and the 08-10.

Crate engine depot has them listed seperately and the price is $30 difference per arm with the 08+ being less expensive.

 

Nevermind, I found my own answers. Ill just leave this here for future references.

Moog only makes a full replacement LCA for fe1 suspensions (they are steel)
Raybestos and Movetech make aluminum LCA replacements for fe3 and fe5 suspensions, however, there is nothing online that specifies which type of CAB bushing they use. Futhermore, the price they sell at makes going OEM the best alternative.

The LSJ ball joint pin measure 19.5mm while the LNF measures 20.5mm. The 1mm difference can be made up be pounding a chisel into the back of the knuckle to spread it that distance.
Also, it is said that the LNF ball (the acutal ball joint) is slightly larger.

TL;DR
Yes, LNF LCA can be used on the LSJ with a chisel and a hammer.

 

so what did you go with? i'm running moog sway bar endlinks and CAB's, looking to get the outer tie rods too. just ordered KYB front struts and strut mounts about 20 minutes ago lol - i just hit 70k recently as well so my suspension is shot

 

I bought the Moog tierod ends because they have zirc fittings so that you can grease the *****. $49.35 shipped for both from rockauto. Discount code 1657289013780262 (paste it in the "how did you hear about us" box).
I bought LNF control arms from Crate Engine Depot ($287.84 shipped for both).
I bought Moog CABs from Advance auto. $23.00 for both using discount code p20.

I dont know if I will need the CABs though. I will only install them in the new LCAs if they are the voided ones. If they are solid like the Moog ones I will use them and return the ones I bought to advance.

I avoid KYB front strut mounts because they have a tendancy to be extra noisey in a very short period of time. They do not put enough grease in their joints. I have had several sets come out in 2-3 pieces after a mere 15k miles or so. I have never had an issue with their struts though.

edit for added

I just saw the Moog endlinks, I am buy those as well since its an extra $40.00 and they too have zirc fittings.

In addition to my suspention replacement I am going to toss in the LNF shift tower bracket Mongorat427 sent me as well as the Powel Race Parts "Race" Roll Pins (once I can finally order them. I wish he would get the online store going sooooo bad).

Also need to change my rear left hub as the ABS sensor failed in it and I am sick of the light.

 

Are the KYB unit strictly OE compliant replacements or are they an upgrade?

 

Why would you get the KYB struts when there are Koni's to buy?

Also you could have gotten the control arms from rockauto for about $200 shipped

 

thanks man! well i wonder should i go with MOOG strut mounts then? idk. i could also just pap & swap em out easily later if the kyb ones **** on me right? i haven't touched my front struts yet so idk whats involved with that

the struts are supposed to apparently be an OE replacement but be good for cars lowered 1" to 1-1/2" so idk lol.

 

konis are about 350 for the pair when i found the kyb's on amazon for 120 for the pair! the excel g/g2 ones.

plus with the konis you need to modify the stock strut housing which just seemed like too much work for how much they cost to justify

 

I am debating on just getting coil overs instead. I bought moog strut mounts but only because I am sure that my DS is toasted. Reason I am doing this all right now is I am driving the car to Ohio in a month and my steering wheel issue wants resolved before then lol. Ill probably snag coil overs by the end of this year honestly.


I know, but for control arms I wanted OEM ones because I couldnt see or feel the aftermarket ones before buying them. At least I know what I am getting with OEM.

control arm (both)
tie rod ends (both)
strut mounts (both)
end links (both)

Ill rotate my tires and get an alignment then. My steering issue better be gone lol.

 

what's your steering issue?

 

Are you on lowering springs? If so you can pop the mounts off easily as the springs are not compressed against the mount really tight like they are with OEM springs. You wont need a spring compressor to swap top mounts if you are on drop springs. Even still, dont point it at your face lol.

Wheels off.
Undo the top mount bolts under the hood.
Undo knuckle bolts.
Pull out strut assembly.
Unbolt top mount.
Change.
Reverse.

Add some grease to the bearing portion of the mount before tossing it in.
You will need an alignment afterwards.


I bought the Moog top mounts so Ill let you know how they last and if they get loud.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...cement-301402/