Like I said before, look at ANY of the Fords, RWD, FWD, or AWD - and they have the trailing bushing mounted in a way that allows proper up/down articulation.

The Taurus SHO produces more power than the Cobalt SS (365 hp stock, easily tuned to 400-500 hp), and the SHO is primarily a FWD design (rear electronic coupler engages rear diff only when wheelspin is detected), and uses the same lower control arm design as Fox/S197/Panther. The Ford Focus is FWD and is probably a better comparison to the Cobalt, and yet it uses a beefy trailing bushing design that Ford has used on other platforms:

 

I'm not saying GM did a great job, they did a functional job and spent more in R&D on the engine.

Good luck trying to get cobalt people to pay for a proper setup. You would need a new subframe and control arm.

 

I'm sure no one is going to re-engineer the front lower arm. I did notice that the 1982-1994 J-Body used the conventional lower arm, whereas they switched to this current design for 1995-2005 J-Bodies. I've seen this style of arm used on a mix of GM FWD cars, but some of their newer FWD cars (like the 2013-up Malibu) with the "Ford" style front lower arm that has a beefed up trailing CAB.

I read Powell's thoughts on suspension again, and it looks like the TCAB is really only critical for road racing. For drag racing, it seemed like the weight shift and aligning the axles were more critical.

 

I have factory front bushings and his rear bushings and trust me the rears make a difference over stock in drag racing.

 

I installed the Powell TCABs, rotated mounts (Stage 1), and Powergrid endlinks. I went for a test drive and while I got some wheelspin in 2nd gear at WOT, I didn't feel the immense torque steer or wheel hop. I did another pass (2nd gear to about 6100 RPM and then into 3rd WOT) and this time I didn't experience any drama (no hop, spin, etc).

I also changed my new tune where I tweaked the MALT for less drama below 4000 RPM and then 100% torque at 4500+ RPM. But, at the drag strip, I severely reduced the torque in 2nd gear and it still had nasty torque steer prior to Powell's parts.

I don't experience any vibrations at idle, with or without the A/C engaged. However, I did notice shifting from 1st to 2nd produces a more noticeable clunk (like harsh engagement). Going over bumps also seems a tad harsher, but this car never rode soft or comfortable in the first place

 

Good stuff, enjoy!

 

Thanks for the help and recommendations!

 

You did loosen the motor mounts and drive just a little before final torquing the trans mount, correct?

 

I followed the torque instructions from the factory service manual.

 

The engine needs to tilt a little. Powell suggests loosening the motor mounts slightly and going for a short drive out of boost to allow the motor to find where it needs to set. Then torque everything to spec.

 

I didn't see that part in the instructions and I have his v11 sheet. Again I don't experience any vibrations in the cab

 

So I just ordered Powell stage 1 mount and Control arm bushings. It sounds like it'll be a down grade from my Ottp stage 2 mounts. �� The bushings are torn though and it was just cheaper for me to just buy the whole new mount. Was that a bad choice? I don't get torque steer much now but it sounds like I will with the Powell stage 1. I've slowly been getting more and more torque steer. I'm guessing that's due to them tearing.

 

We only need the Stage 1 Powell mounts on the LNF's since the rear mount is stiff enough. What makes you think the OTTP was better?

 

Everyone pretty much says Ottp stage 2 gets rid of all wheel hop and I've seen a bunch of people on here say powells stage 1 gets rid of most wheel hop. It's worth it though if it's also has less vibrations which it sounds like it does. Vibrations don't bother me but less would be nice.

 

The replacement bushings are $10.

 

10 dollars each and you need the new spacers that go with them. I think those are 5 dollars each. Then they charge crazy shipping. And then it would cost a whole lot to get them pressed in. And I wouldn't get inferior bushings that will just tear again.

 

Plus like this I can sell those OTTP mounts. So I'll be ahead of the game.

 

To get a shop to press new bushings in is like $20 lol. And both of the bushings are the same btw. Just rubber. Nothing special. You would have paid like $60 total.

 

we tried a hand press when i did mine. i lifted myself 275 off the ground and got no where. hydraulic press - 30 seconds.