Recently I had transmission warranty work and since then the inside of my tires were wearing out (too much camber). I am on Powell yyz v2 springs and koni inserts. Prior to the warranty work my alignment was good and camber was roughly -1.6 drivers side and -1.8 passenger side. I just changed my tie rod ends and ball joints to rule out warn parts but after alignment camber ended up being -1.1 drivers and -2.4 passenger. What would cause it to be off like that? Can the cradle shift that much?

 

loosen strut bolts and pull top of tire out, retighten strut bolts.

 

Stock strut housings so the holes do not have any room to pull out any.

 

slot the strut bolt holes. that is the recommended procedure per GM to adjust camber

for reference i am referring to the two bolts where the knuck and strut mate. slot the top bolt hole and it will go 2 degrees +/-

 

I am aware that you can do that but the alignment was fine before the cradle was dropped.

The alignment guy is saying a bent strut passenger side but that wouldn't really account for the driver side to go from -1.6 to -1.1.

 

what was the caster at?

 

Prior good alignment caster was 3.9/3.8. Current alignment caster is 4.0/3.7.

 

Finally that I'm home I have the alignment sheets infront of me. My original numbers were a little off.

Past Alignment:
Driver side:-1.8 camber, 3.9 caster, .10 toe
Passenger side: -1.4 camber, 3.8 caster, .10 toe

New Alignment:
Driver side:-1.1 camber, 4.0 caster, .10 toe
Passenger side: -2.4 camber, 3.7 caster, .10 toe

 

The subframe was out so it's probably shifted more to one side.

 

Caster doesnt show a shift, adjust camber with struts

 

That^^

 

+2

 

This.

Do you have sai or included angle?

 

Only other angles listed in the data sheet is steer ahead and thrust angle. I will be able to have it on a lift next week so will try to see if I can center the cradle. I will also oblong the holes on the strut to add adjustability.