bad tie rod end?
bad tie rod end?
OK, I was driving a couple days ago and while I was making a left turn I had to swerve to miss a box in the road, it was early morning and I didn't see the curb... long story short I tapped the curb with my right front wheel. I was doing maybe 15mph and it didn't hit anything but the rim, I got a little curb rash but the tire and rim are fine. But now my steering wheel is off. Straight line driving the steering wheel is now pointing at 1-2 o'clock. Also the steering feels numb. When I pull into a parking spot and move the wheel lock to lock it has a serious numb spot at each end... and while I was driving in a parking garage I noticed I have tire squeal at all speeds even in a straight line. I know you can get tire noise like that when turning in a parking garage but it shouldn't do it in a straight line. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on? Any help would be great thanks guys!
I went to a tire place on base and they told me they couldn't do it because of some sort of electronic sensors on the cobalt, and that I had to get it done at the dealer... it sounded like bull to me but this is my first car other then a Honda so I had no clue.. I just put pedders springs on and I have konis in the mail now, should I install these before I get the full alignment?
i tapped the curb in the winter and needed an alignment...everything else was fine.
Yea wouldnt hurt.
I went to a tire place on base and they told me they couldn't do it because of some sort of electronic sensors on the cobalt, and that I had to get it done at the dealer... it sounded like bull to me but this is my first car other then a Honda so I had no clue.. I just put pedders springs on and I have konis in the mail now, should I install these before I get the full alignment?
You definately bent it.
There is nothing in the cobalt that they can't align around, the ESC is not that special.
You either slightly bent a knuckle (they are alumnium and do give a little) or bent the tie rod end as mentioned. I've also seen bent control arms on the FE3-5 cars, not so much on the steel ones though.
Either way, if it's only as bad as you say it should be correctable with the factory adjustments.
There is nothing in the cobalt that they can't align around, the ESC is not that special.
You either slightly bent a knuckle (they are alumnium and do give a little) or bent the tie rod end as mentioned. I've also seen bent control arms on the FE3-5 cars, not so much on the steel ones though.
Either way, if it's only as bad as you say it should be correctable with the factory adjustments.
Compare it to the other side, see if you notice any bends that shouldn't be there. You might not even see the difference, it doesn't take much to give the problems you're having
Tie rod and/or control arm issues. Probably toasted the hub too. Dealer may need to be involved because if you get an alignment or knock it out of alignment, the steering angle sensor has to be reset, which can only be done with a Tech2.
Is the dealer the only one who would have the Tech2?
If you center the wheel first and then adjust your specs, it will be fine though. The sensor is in the steering column, so unless you remove/replace the steering wheel, it's still clocked to the sensor the same way. Body shops need to re-program them all the time since they have to replace airbags and columns when they get crashed. Normal wheel damage however, no matter how severe, will not throw off the sensor.
Newer hunter alignment machines and probably other brands come with an interface that can re-calibrate the SAS as well. I know the one we use at work has that function.
If you center the wheel first and then adjust your specs, it will be fine though. The sensor is in the steering column, so unless you remove/replace the steering wheel, it's still clocked to the sensor the same way. Body shops need to re-program them all the time since they have to replace airbags and columns when they get crashed. Normal wheel damage however, no matter how severe, will not throw off the sensor.
If you center the wheel first and then adjust your specs, it will be fine though. The sensor is in the steering column, so unless you remove/replace the steering wheel, it's still clocked to the sensor the same way. Body shops need to re-program them all the time since they have to replace airbags and columns when they get crashed. Normal wheel damage however, no matter how severe, will not throw off the sensor.
Maybe you fu**ed your rack and pinion... Could be dog tracking for all you know... Did you actually take off your tie rod on both ends and compare? The slightest of the slightest bend could throw everything off and cause problems. Just because it doesnt wiggle doesnt mean its not the problem
So here is the million dollar question.!!! Is this maybe a recall issue? Was the bump just the final blow to an already bad part? I jacked the car today and removed the tire and related parts.... no play, no bend, not even a scratch! The paint on the tie rod and ends is perfect... from everything I have read and I have even called my mechanic and talked to him the mechanical parts are perfect. But.... the steering stuff was recalled for my SS... but my car was never brought in under that recall.
I didn't read it, I just had a friend tell me about it. I apologize for the bad info. I think Im just going to replace the tie rods and links. It looked straight and felt good but I'm not at home and only have very basic tools so I did not fully remove it. Is there any company that makes better tie rods and ends?
Just take the car in for alignment. You will have to get it aligned after you change the tie rod anyway. If something is so fucked up that it can't be brought into spec, they will tell you.
I didn't read it, I just had a friend tell me about it. I apologize for the bad info. I think Im just going to replace the tie rods and links. It looked straight and felt good but I'm not at home and only have very basic tools so I did not fully remove it. Is there any company that makes better tie rods and ends?
^^^^ Truth there.
Step one would be an alignment - and do NOT wait too long because your toe in is way out of whack (squeeling tires in a straight line, numb on center feel) and your tires will be junk in no time.
If there is anything bent beyond aligning and parts need to be replaced, you will need an alignment anyways......
Step one would be an alignment - and do NOT wait too long because your toe in is way out of whack (squeeling tires in a straight line, numb on center feel) and your tires will be junk in no time.
If there is anything bent beyond aligning and parts need to be replaced, you will need an alignment anyways......
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