ok, i have searched the forums and nothing is answering my question.

2 days ago
I just painted my calipers and we got them back on and bleed the system. there is no pressure at all. so then we did it again, and the out come was the same. So today we did it in the morning i pumped the pedal at least 10 times it was getting stiff, the outcome..... it was a little more responsive. so 20 mins ago we did it again. and it was the same. grrrrr i am getting pissed. we also just put on new rotors and i want to try them out...!!!!!!!!! please some one give me a solution... Text me 4804409022

 

Did the fluid run out of the master cylinder? I would fill the reservoir and open both front bleeders and let them run (don't pump the brake pedal) until you get clean fluid coming out. Close the bleeders and pump the pedal until you get pressure, then hold the pedal down while you crack one bleeder at a time and watch the fluid. when there are no bubbles, you should be good.
If you put a clear hose over the bleeder and into a container of your choice, it is easier to see air bubbles(and less messy!).
Also, try to not let the pedal go all the way to the floor before you close the bleeder. And don't release the pedal with a bleeder open as this will pull air back into the system.
You might want to do the rears just to be on the safe side. When you bleed the brakes, always start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder.
Good luck,
Dennis

 

the best way that I bleed the brakes is to fill the master cylinder and seal the cap and put vacuum to the cap and what that does is pulls ALL of the air out of the system and then you pump the brakes and you are good to go. The problem with my method is you need an adapter to get the vacuum in to the master cylinder. But with no adapter Dennis' way is the way to do it if you have two people. You could also try to open all of the bleeders and gravity bleed them for about ten minutes first.
Aaron

 

Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to catch brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, or if you have disconnected the brake pipes from the proportioning valve assembly or the brake modulator assembly, you must perform the following steps to bleed air at the ports of the hydraulic component:
3.1. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir combined with the hydraulic clutch on manual transmissions to the maximum-fill level with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the brake pipes installed securely to the master cylinder, proportioning valve assembly, or brake modulator assembly, loosen and separate one of the brake pipes from the port of the component.

For the proportioning valve assembly or the brake modulator assembly, perform these steps in the sequence of system flow; begin with the fluid feed pipes from the master cylinder.

3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the component.

3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the component and tighten securely.

3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.

3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the component.

3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the component.

3.9. With the brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, proportioning valve assembly, or brake modulator assembly after all air has been purged from the first port of the component that was bled, loosen and separate the next brake pipe from the component, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8 until each of the ports on the component has been bled.

3.10. After completing the final component port bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the brake pipe-to-component fittings is properly tightened.

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir and combined hydraulic clutch, if equipped, to the maximum-fill level with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
7.Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
8.Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
9.Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
10.Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
11.Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
12.With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely and after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
13.Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
14.With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
15.Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
16.With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
17.Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
18.After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves is properly tightened.
19.Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
20.Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.

Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.

 

Thanks i will try this tonight.

 

Maven you copied and pasted that i assume if you didnt that deserves respect.

 

some times you need to do an abs bleed that takes a gm service diagnostic tool. usually there is a simple answer - a bad seal or a loose bleed nipple check everything to make sure you have made no assembly mistakes particularly with the rear caliper assy

 

question on the front i compressed the caliper, but i changed my pads and rotors... now in the back i DID NOT change the rotors or pads but i did paint them, do i still need to compress the caliper?

That Was A Stupid Question I Already Answered... No..... Now I Think I Have To Go To Gm And Get It Worked On..... Since I Have Painted Calipers Should They Give Me A Hard Time?

 

A large portion of it is copy/paste from the Service Mnaual, but it doesnt translate properly into the reply box here, so I do have to go back in and edit all the step numbers, and pout in some spacing and what not, its almost impossible to follow as a direct paste. But no I didnt physically type it all out.



And Qwik is correct, if youve got ABS sometimes it just really needs to haver the TECH2 automated bleed procedure run. It shouldnt if you follow those steps though. BUt if you cant get a good pedal that way, youll need a TECH2

 

Mav, do you have any experience with the motive bleeder tank and pump? Just wondering. Thinking of getting one for brake fluid exchange during track days. Just wonder how well that works.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.html

 

always my luck! who would have this tool/ scanner in az other that gm service