Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Brake break in

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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 01:07 PM
  #1  
trasher's Avatar
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From: Chico, Northern CA
Brake break in

So I just picked up the Holiday brake special from THmotorsports (Stoptech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS, SS lines, and ATE 200 fluid) and I am hoping to throw them on as soon as I get a break in the weather.

The only problem is the SS lines and Fluid have not made it yet (I am guessing they come in separate packaging), So my question is:

1. Can I just throw on the rotors and pads before the SS lines and fluid come in so I can start their break in process, or should I just wait for them to come in and do it all at once?

2. Once installed, what is a proper break-in time/mileage/procedure for a brake upgrade of this stature?
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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methodman2424's Avatar
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From: Cleveland OH
If you don't have to drive it...I would just wait and do it all at once.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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From: Lafayette, LA
you can install the pads and rotors and start breaking em in, after all it would be like you just ordering pads and rotors.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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From: Southern New Jersey
I would say do it all at once, just because its less work
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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From: Shelton, Wa
Another vote for all at once.

Break-in procedure I learned...

-5 light stops from 60. Let cool
-5 moderate stops from 60. Let cool
-5 hard stops from 60. Let cool
-5 hard stops from 100. Drive until completly cool with minimal use of brakes.

Congrats, You're now broken in. Most brake manufacturers have a procedure like this on their website. One other thing that makes it a real BITCH to do right. They'll also tell you that new rotors should be broken in with used/bedded pads, new pads should be broken in with used/bedded rotors.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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From: Southern New Jersey
Originally Posted by TLWiltman
Another vote for all at once.

Break-in procedure I learned...

6 light stops from 40 to 5mph 1/2 mile between stops
4 moderate stops from 60to 5mph. 1/2 mile between stops
Drive until completly cool with minimal use of brakes.(15 minutes)

I like this way better, the other way is far too extreme for the street imo.

You only ever use old or uncut rotors if you arent changing pad compound, IE: if you replace your Hawk HPS with new HAWK HPS you do not need new rotors or need to cut your old ones If youre switching pads stock to aftermaket, or going from one aftermarket pad to a different one even from the same company(HPS to HP+) you need to use fresh or freshly cut rotors.

using old pads on new rotors(meaning youre just changing your rotors not pads) is okay so long as you sand the pad surface smooth and dull again. if you leave any shiny spots or the pad isnt perfectly flat it will take a LONNNNGGGG time for the new rotors to break in and youll have longer stopping until they are fully bedded.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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golden chicken's Avatar
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From: Acton, MA
for customers this is the procedure i use: 5-6 consecutive medium-hard "stops" from 55-25 mph. if it's a stick i use third gear and just accelerate at about 80% and then brake at 80% and then accelerate 80% and brake at 80% etc. etc.

then i drive normal and try not to come to a complete stop until the brakes are cooled down again.

the idea is not to shock the brakes with a ton of heat right away but you do want to build up heat so that the friction surfaces mate.

usually by the third time the brakes start to bite for me.

bedding in the hawk hps pads i have now seemed to take a LONG time...like a week. but i cut my rotors instead of using new ones.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 03:50 AM
  #8  
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From: Shelton, Wa
Originally Posted by Maven
I like this way better, the other way is far too extreme for the street imo.

You only ever use old or uncut rotors if you arent changing pad compound, IE: if you replace your Hawk HPS with new HAWK HPS you do not need new rotors or need to cut your old ones If youre switching pads stock to aftermaket, or going from one aftermarket pad to a different one even from the same company(HPS to HP+) you need to use fresh or freshly cut rotors.

using old pads on new rotors(meaning youre just changing your rotors not pads) is okay so long as you sand the pad surface smooth and dull again. if you leave any shiny spots or the pad isnt perfectly flat it will take a LONNNNGGGG time for the new rotors to break in and youll have longer stopping until they are fully bedded.
<ducks head a bit> I pulled a lot of that out from when I was (stil am) building my race car. I suppose the way you mentioned might work better for street. I found, when I was building my braking system, that Wilwood (my supplier of choice on my Camaro) has both "bedded" pads and "bedded" rotors that are bedded on a dyno. The idea being that either component would be a pre-bedded unit, and the other component would be "green". This was more the intent of the part about old/new. My apologies for perhaps mucking up the issue a bit.
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