brake failure
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From: Villa Park, IL
brake failure
so i decided to install ZZP Rotors and evo pads on my front. Also paint calipers a nice gloss red.
Ran into some issues with the brakes going to the floor and my abs not kicking on. ABS light is not on, but check engine light is. car does stop and stops hard. but brakes go way to far into the floor
Bleed brakes fine all of them have air out of system but because i bleed all 4 brakes is there a procedure to bleed the abs or what. Please help needs brakes working like they used to. WILL NEVER TOUCH AGAIN!
Reason for taking calipers and brakets off where to paint them which i should of left them on. I thought it look nice if i took a Grinder with a wirebrush wheel and cleaned em before painting. Didn't think id run into a big pain in the ass. But i also could of done it wrong. Do u need 2 people to bleed the brake system cause i had me and a buddy.
Ran into some issues with the brakes going to the floor and my abs not kicking on. ABS light is not on, but check engine light is. car does stop and stops hard. but brakes go way to far into the floor
Bleed brakes fine all of them have air out of system but because i bleed all 4 brakes is there a procedure to bleed the abs or what. Please help needs brakes working like they used to. WILL NEVER TOUCH AGAIN!
Reason for taking calipers and brakets off where to paint them which i should of left them on. I thought it look nice if i took a Grinder with a wirebrush wheel and cleaned em before painting. Didn't think id run into a big pain in the ass. But i also could of done it wrong. Do u need 2 people to bleed the brake system cause i had me and a buddy.
Last edited by Joemaster70; Jul 11, 2011 at 01:26 AM.
so the car brakes fine, but the pedal goes almost to floor basically, as far as im understanding? I have the same issue now, so im intrigued. I just changed my rears, not my fronts and same thing kinda, pedal goes down furhter, not to the floor but alot farther now. But my braking is fine, for the most part (gotta do fronts). I did a whole brake line flush as well (black fluid) and replaced everything. IDK man, kinda waiting to see if anybody has any idears.
You let air into the system. Badly. You need to bleed them again. Even if you had let a bunch of air in, ABS normally doesn't need any other attention since it is closed off. HOWEVER, since you've gone around attempting to trigger ABS you now have a giant mess on your hands with possible air in the ABS system too.
You have two options. Bleed the brakes properly with the two man method, which is an excellent way of forcing air out, then triggering ABS a bunch and do another full bleed, regardless if whether or not you think it is "ok". The other option is to take it to a dealer that you trust and have them machine bleed and cycle ABS via computer.
Do not cheap out here! If you screw this up and leave some air in there somewhere you will have a soft pedal, and/or loss of brakes under hard braking.
You have two options. Bleed the brakes properly with the two man method, which is an excellent way of forcing air out, then triggering ABS a bunch and do another full bleed, regardless if whether or not you think it is "ok". The other option is to take it to a dealer that you trust and have them machine bleed and cycle ABS via computer.
Do not cheap out here! If you screw this up and leave some air in there somewhere you will have a soft pedal, and/or loss of brakes under hard braking.
I agree, air in the system.
I purchased a pressure bleeder, a large container with a manual pressure pump attached, and it goes on the brake reservoir so you can pressurize the entire system. That way I can bleed the system by myself without needing someone to manually press the brake pedal while the car is running. This is what I have -- Motive Products European Power Bleeder (Water-cooled Cars), Tools, Brakes, Motive Products Products & Other Performance Aftermarket Auto Parts - North American Motorsports -- but I got it cheaper by searching the Internet. I'm not a fan of the vacuum brake bleeders, I haven't had consistent with them.
I also followed the specified bleeding order from the factory maintenance manual and I had no problems.
Scott
I purchased a pressure bleeder, a large container with a manual pressure pump attached, and it goes on the brake reservoir so you can pressurize the entire system. That way I can bleed the system by myself without needing someone to manually press the brake pedal while the car is running. This is what I have -- Motive Products European Power Bleeder (Water-cooled Cars), Tools, Brakes, Motive Products Products & Other Performance Aftermarket Auto Parts - North American Motorsports -- but I got it cheaper by searching the Internet. I'm not a fan of the vacuum brake bleeders, I haven't had consistent with them.
I also followed the specified bleeding order from the factory maintenance manual and I had no problems.
Scott
Here is a link to make your own inexpensive pressure bleeder. I havent done it yet since I havent needed one but it looks like it should work.
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/BM...ureBleeder.pdf
Heres another one
The DIY $20 brake bleeder
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/BM...ureBleeder.pdf
Heres another one
The DIY $20 brake bleeder
Here is a link to make your own inexpensive pressure bleeder. I havent done it yet since I havent needed one but it looks like it should work.
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/BM...ureBleeder.pdf
Heres another one
The DIY $20 brake bleeder
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/BM...ureBleeder.pdf
Heres another one
The DIY $20 brake bleeder
Scott
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