Brake Help!
In my car, I replaced all the brake lines, because there was very very little brake power and because all the lines were dry in the wheel wells, I thought they had collapsed (23 yr old car). Anyway, did all that, and now I don't have front brakes. When I have someone help me bleed all the brakes, the rears work fine, the pedal drops to the floor when I open the bleeder bolt. The pedal doesn't move at all when I open up the front bleeder bolts. It stays at about halfway, The calipers will move in the front when the pedal is pushed, but the brakes don't stop the car at all.
I tried bleeding the master cylinder today, that was no help. The lines aren't leaking anywhere.
When I sit in the car and pump the brake pedal, the pedal never gets stiffer like it does in my Cavalier.
I used a bleeder tool for the front brakes, but it couldn't create a vacuum like in the rear brakes.
I can hear sloshing in the reservoir when I push the brake pedal. I don't think that's normal.
Please help! I think I need to replace the Master Cylinder but I don't want to unless I'm sure about it.
Also, there's no ABS.
I tried bleeding the master cylinder today, that was no help. The lines aren't leaking anywhere.
When I sit in the car and pump the brake pedal, the pedal never gets stiffer like it does in my Cavalier.
I used a bleeder tool for the front brakes, but it couldn't create a vacuum like in the rear brakes.
I can hear sloshing in the reservoir when I push the brake pedal. I don't think that's normal.
Please help! I think I need to replace the Master Cylinder but I don't want to unless I'm sure about it.
Also, there's no ABS.
I just thought of this....have you verified that your front calipers even work? can you poor out fluid with bleeder removed?
Also are you opening the combo/proportioning valve?
Was fluid coming out full force from both lines when you bench bled the master?
Also are you opening the combo/proportioning valve?
Was fluid coming out full force from both lines when you bench bled the master?
Last edited by Maven; Jan 24, 2010 at 01:24 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I haven't verified they work because they're new from the auto parts store. I'm kinda assuming. Plus, I can see the piston inside of them moving when the brake pedal is pressed. It'll force contact between the rotors and pads, but it's not enough to stop the car. Only my hand spinning the rotor by the lug nuts.
I haven't touched the proportioning valve other than to put the new brake lines onto it. I made sure to put them into the right places. Could that be broken internally?
Fluid was indeed coming out full force from both lines when I bled the cylinder.
I haven't touched the proportioning valve other than to put the new brake lines onto it. I made sure to put them into the right places. Could that be broken internally?
Fluid was indeed coming out full force from both lines when I bled the cylinder.
There should be a litte pin on the valve, it looks like, well a tiny nail or pin head sticking out the end of the valve, you may need to actuate that valve to get a proper bleed.
I will check on my dads Fieros when I go over there tonight, see if seeing one will jog my memeory, give me ideas.
Yours is an 87 right?
I will check on my dads Fieros when I go over there tonight, see if seeing one will jog my memeory, give me ideas.
Yours is an 87 right?
There should be a little pin on the valve, it looks like, well a tiny nail or pin head sticking out the end of the valve, you may need to actuate that valve to get a proper bleed.
I will check on my dads Fieros when I go over there tonight, see if seeing one will jog my memory, give me ideas.
Yours is an 87 right?
I will check on my dads Fieros when I go over there tonight, see if seeing one will jog my memory, give me ideas.
Yours is an 87 right?
It's an '86. Close enough. lol SE model with the 2.5L Iron Duke if that makes a difference.
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