This will be my frist time in autocross and i was wondering if i put DOT-5 fluid with slotted rotars and some better pads if that would be enough, or if I should not waste my money on that and instead just to with a big brake kit with 4pot front 2pot rear. Anyone with either of these mods have some insight for me?

 

I didnt change anything about my brakes and I was still able to do fairly well at my first auto-x event. I've thought about putting slotted rotors with different pads on, with the same fluid, and if I get bored maybe steel lines down the road

 

Best brake upgrade is stainless lines, but this WILL bump you into a different class, then again so will slotted rotors.

I don't have a clue why people are so quick to change the stock rotors out, the GAC cars last I checked used the stock rotors. They're MORE than adequate even for road racing (that's what I run on the road course and haven't had a bit of trouble). I would recommend switching pads to Hawk HPS though.

Also for DOT 5 I believe you HAVE to have steel braided lines. DOT 4 would be more than adequate for auto-x, you're really not all that likely to boil brake fluid on an auto-x course unless it's a really high speed course.

 

Yeah, I have been running Hondas in these events in the past couple of years and haven't yet raced my newest car, 06 ss/sc and did the same thing...can I trouble you for the part number of the pads you used? thanks!

 

I actually don't run HP Plus pads, I run HPS pads because I run the car on a road course. However, HP Plus pads are better for auto-x, but here are the part numbers for the HP Plus - 2006 Cobalt SS/SC (front disc/rear disc):

Front: HB524N.740
Rear: HB525N.540

 

For you first event you need to just get out there and see how things go. I did just fine in my car stock. The Cobalt is fine the way it is. Build your skills in the car you have instead of trying to compensate with mods. Mods won't teach you anything about driving. The best upgrade to work on is what's going on behind the wheel.
Don't expect to get out there and whip up on the seasoned drivers.
Take your beginning AutoX experiences as chances to learn. There are always drivers ready to help out.

 

I've found that the HPS pads are the way to go, they're easier to modulate through the course and don't fade. As for the rotors, on an auto-x course the stock rotors are fine.

 

Hey man, thanks for the numbers

If I only had a dollar for everytime someone told me this......lol

 

I run Carbotech on the track and stock for Auto X, You will need SS lines for track since you will baloon or expand the stock rubber lines from the heat at the track.

 

Burntorange.... like everyone's stated... if you're NEW to the sport... go out with what you have to get a good baseline and go from there once you learn your car.

I'm in my 2nd season now, and I'm still running stock style pads & rotors. I AM going to upgrade the fluid and pads this year, but not the rotors.

DOT-5 from everything I've read is for extreme heat situations, and is completely un-neccessary for autocrossers. If you road raced it, that would be a different story.

Go out and have fun. Besides... if everyone is telling you this ( since you brought up the whole "if I had a dime for everytime...." comment ) about the sport, why not try it that way 1st and then decide?


You really need to get a feel for the car as-is and that way when you DO change things, you know what is working and what is NOT. So many times peoeple go all out and add 100 things to their cars and it takes forever to get them sorted out.

Hope this helps, and good luck @ your 1st events.

 

wat about 5.1 it is a synthetic based brake fluid. u could flush out our dot 3 and put in 5.1 as long as you completly rid all of the dot3 fluid, flush with isopropyl alchohl then flush the isopropyl w/ the 5.1 never let utr master cylinder get too low

also does any1 have an idea whether or not we have any magnesium in our entire brake system?

 

I haven't autocrossed yet but Im starting next year. My buddy works at Georgian Bay motorsports so I am gettin there brake set up on my car. My stock rotors are completely toast all of them are warped and worn way down. I'm wondering how your guys last? I think its cause there isnt really high speeds? not sure

 

I know this is a wicked old thread at this point but I feel an absolute need to STRESS that you ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT PUT DOT5 FLUID IN AN SS(or any car with abs)

DOT5 Silicone fluid is 100% incompatible with abs systems. It has tiny air bubbles in the fluid that you cannot remove. DOT5 is also not hygroscopic, meaning it doesnt absorb water, which sounds like a good thing but its not. Since it doesnt get absorbed and dispersed throughout the fluid moisture can actually form pockets of water, and can lead to very very soft pedal when this moisture boils. DOT5 is for show cars and RVs.

DOT5.1 is a fully glycol compatible fluid with very high boiling points, it is the highest "number" fluid on the market, but many DOT4 fluids actually offer superior performance. Dont buy based on the number, look at the specs. ATE SuperBlue(DOT4) is what I use and is an excellent low cost, high performance fluid. Some other high end glycol fluids can run upwards of $100/quart. Ive found ATE for as little as $10/pint.

Factory fill on most cars isnt actually even DOT3 anymore, DOT3 is for all intents and purposes an anitquated spec, and virtually every fluid on market conforms to DOT4 now.

GBM, sweet. Those guys run custom rotor hats, Performance Friction rotors, and 2010 Camaro brake calipers, I wouldnt mind having that setup. Custom rotor hats are easily $300/each! Unless its free, the BAER track kit will do the same job as what the Koni Challenge guys run. Some of the Koni guys actually want to try the Brembos off the TC, they arent allowed for some reason.

 

Sorry should have clarified I'm getting there old set up that they used on the sc's I believe its the same or similar to what qwik is running. They can't hook me up with those calipers I wouldn't think. If i was payin full pop i'd just get the brembo's.

 

I installed my Stoptech slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, ATE Superblue brake fluid, and stainless steel brake lines. After breaking-in the rotors and pads, I did some stopping distance tests with my Gtech Pro RR meter. With my stock brake package, I had a much more difficult time getting enough braking force to engage the anti-lock system than with my new setup. I would have expected my new brakes to stop in a much shorter distance than the stock brakes, but the results were exactly the same stopping distance. I think that the stock brakes are plenty for factory-spec street tires, and the results of improving the brakes will only be as good as the tires that are touching the road. I believe that if I had grippier tires, I would see a much bigger difference between stopping distances (factory vs modified brakes). In summary, our factory brakes will stop a car equipped with factory tires in exactly the same distance as a car with modified brakes. If you want to stop in a shorter distance after modifying the brakes, buy grippier tires.

 

[QUOTE=Maven;2926122]I know this is a wicked old thread at this point but I feel an absolute need to STRESS that you ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT PUT DOT5 FLUID IN AN SS(or any car with abs)

DOT5 Silicone fluid is 100% incompatible with abs systems. It has tiny air bubbles in the fluid that you cannot remove. DOT5 is also not hygroscopic, meaning it doesnt absorb water, which sounds like a good thing but its not. Since it doesnt get absorbed and dispersed throughout the fluid moisture can actually form pockets of water, and can lead to very very soft pedal when this moisture boils. DOT5 is for show cars and RVs.QUOTE]

Glad someone said it before I had to chime in...

Also as far as stopping distances go, tires are a bigger difference in the distance, but longevity, consistancy and fade resistance definatly call for upgrading at least the rotors. I run the GMPP rotors w/ stock pads and find it has the best all around characteristics thus far. I do want to try the brembos though...