Since this thread has started I have really looked into this issue with drilled/slotted brakes. I have found that almost all race cars have solid rotors and very few have slotted brakes. Also I have found out like you have mentioned that your brake performance is all in the pads. The better your pads the better the stopping ability.

 

I too am not a big fan on having slotted rotors. However, IMO, drilled are the best way to go. I have used Hawk pads forever and will keep using them. They rock!

 

i have the ebc rotors and they look awesome! they work great paired w/ my hawk hks pads

 

EBC or BAER?

 

I also have the hawk pads.. They are great

 

Anyone know who makes these?

Also, are they any good?

Cobalt Drilled and Slotted Rotor Package CDSR

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1753C192.aspx

 

I believe that they are AC Delco.

 

AC DELCO
As far as I heard, they are ok. They rust a lot though.

 

They do rust alot. Have you checked out Uneek's?

 

I don't know about Uneek's. Never heard of them. I like to see reputation from past manufacturers.

 

i think you would get more stopping power from new pads and break lines then changing rotors. and it would be a lot cheaper. but a nice pair of slotted rotors is always sexy.

 

If you do new pads, you HAVE to do new rotors.

 

no you don't

 

If you want the pads to wear properly you really should. The only case where I could POSSIBLY see going with new pads without new rotors is if you were buying the same exact pads that you had on the car. Otherwise, yeah, you should do pads and rotors at the same time.

You can, in theory, turn the rotors and be OK, but you have to have enough material left to be able to safely do that and it can only be done once or twice per set.

I would never turn the rotors on the SS, other cars I've had it done but I would never do it on any car that I pushed the brakes at all.

 

Heres the GMPP, they are very good but they rust....I heard some of the other/aftermarket ones dont rust....they have zinc in them or something....making them rust free.....I think its minor but if you have a show car, go for the better ones for sure, when i need to replace them again, I will probally try Uneek's, heard good things about them....

 

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IMHO one way to optimize stopping power is to get a big brake kit. you have more surface area on both the pad and rotor giving you better soping power and shorter stoping distance. but i heard that cost and arm and a leg so the only way it seems to upgrade would be better pads. and i would only but slotted rotors. they crack less and stay cooler than stock.

 

The ss brakes are plenty big and with performance pads and vented/sloted rotors, they are even better....one of my buddys with a modded RSX always bugs me to get big brake kit, he has bigger brakes and 4piston front/2 piston rear cailpers, but if i go bigger i cant run 16s in the winter and once i start doing more mods and get slicks, i would rather 16" slicks..... so these brakes will do just fine, I really dont notice a huge differance between mine and his car.... I am just going to have way more traction when i can run 16" slicks.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...spagenameZWDVW


$200 F&r set...i just put them on 1500 miles ago, looks great and works great!...

 

just got duralast ceramic pads and new duralast rotors all around relatively inexpensive and so far so good ...got em at autozone we'll see how they go...i didnt go slotted or drilled simply cuz they cant be cut later on down the road....it was a pretty easy install

fyi cuz i couldnt find it anywhere on the forum
the bolts that mount the caliper to the bracket are 14mm and the bolts that mount the bracket to the spindle are 15mm

 

Let me please try to explain the benefits of certain elements of the brake system for you and what does what for the return on purchase.

Stainless Steel hoses: improve pedal response by way of better fluid transfer, less swelling in the hose means fluid is used more effectively at the caliper. No improvement in brake "function".

Rotors: replacing an oem rotor with any other of the same dimensions will simply be a new rotor. No change to brake function with regard to torque or capacity. While some rotor treatment finishes (slots, holes, dimples, some or all) may go to help the pad maintain its proper effectiveness, in the oem replacement a rotor is a rotor is a rotor.

Pads; the one true change that can have a significant impact on braking torque. With a higher coefficient of friction certain pads can "bite" the rotor harder and that can create more torque. Often however depending upon the conditions and the tires in use this may be only achieving the same result as stock but in an alternate pressure relationship. Track pads on snow for example won't work any better than oem but may be far more sensitive to pressure input so only a light tap of the pedal may achieve lock up.


So what's right for you? Finding the proper pad for your intended use is number one. Hoses are a plus for those with a good feel for all things pressure and rotors will come in last for value to the system. Now certainly putting hoses and track pads on very worn rotors is not a wise idea either. Make proper selections and plan ahead.

 

I'll probably end up going EBC through TTR, cause they are the sex. Slotted rotors cause they look cool, break lines and good pads to actually do the stopping ;p

 

AMEN!

 

Anybody know which brand of rotors won't rust? I just picked up F&R Hawk HPS pads and I'm going to need some new rotors to go with them before i do the install but I really don't want them to be all rusted like the stock ones get.

 

My ebc ones don't seem to rust.