To help with the increasing number of repeating threads asking about lowering spring installations, here is a new sticky!

I would like people to post the ACTUAL instructions they recieve with their springs when they buy them. If you don't have instructions, then only post a cut amount if you can back it up with manufacturer data.

You should NEVER cut your bump stops on your car unless your springs instructions specifically tell you to. You should ABSOLUTELY NEVER just remove the stops completely.

An alignment is REQUIRED after a spring installation. On the Delta platform cars, the front struts are not adjustable. You can't change the camber without cutting slots in your struts. Therefor, you do NOT need an alignment kit. However, you will need to adjust your toe, which is done via the steering tie rods. If during your alignment you find your camber is out of tolerance, that is an indication of a bigger problem, probably suspension damage.

I'll start. Here are the instructions for the Eibach Pro-Kit:


Here was my alignment data:

 

Might wanna add for the Sportline kit...


13mm off the rear


30mm off the front.

 

Add any instructions from any manufacturer. Do you have your original instructions that you can scan and post up?

 

Well, heres the sheet that came with my Progress springs, not the best scan, but the paper was all crumpled up in the box. It basically says to cut them in half.

 

I can Verify Fast Freddy On that you need to cut them In Half, I'll see if I still have my Instructions

 

yea... but i dont have access to a scanner...


im looking at them right now... what i said above is true..



maybe i will just take a picture and upload it?

 

I can confirm what syP said, My instructions for the sportlines also said

13mm off front

30mm off rear

I only cut the rears though cause I couldnt get the front bump stops out of the sleeving, still rides fine.

 

Halfcent,I'm not entirely sure your statements here are 100% correct. It is true that caster camber adjustment is only possible by elongating the UPPER strut attatchment hole,and this is the procedure detailed in the GM service manual.However,a range of adjustment can be achieved with Eibachs caster camber bolt kits,and I believe Eibach strongly recommends this option.Naturally,they sell it.I'm not saying you need it but it is there to fine tune your suspension.As for bump stops,it would seem to me that it depends on how soft the the springs are that are being installed.I installed H&R Sport springs and there was no mention of trimming with their springs. If I am in error let me know so I can update my log.Thanks
John

 

That's actually backwards. You take 13mm off the rear and 30mm off the front. The front bump stops come out of the sleeve easily with just a little help from a large standard screw driver blade. Once you get em started they pop right out. 30mm is quite a bit and considering the amount of lowering I would not skip this step.

 

I am not sure about the alignment thing. I havent gotten an alignment yet (lowered the car 1 week ago) and at low speeds, when accelerating through 0-20, the sterring wheel shakes pretty badly, I would love to know what is causing this. any suggestions?

 

I would go back in and check all of your bolt torques again. And make sure your rotors are sitting squarely on the hubs.

As for the alignment comments above, here is the simple truth. There is absolutely, positively, no ability to change the alignment (except for toe via the steering tie rods) on a stock car unless you cut metal.

 

thanks for this. finally.

 

I have done 3 alignments on lowered Balts. (SS/SC, Base) and none of them have need any camber adjustment, just minor toe adjustments. Just my 2 cents

 

I'm sorry but I'll have to disagree.Your statement is true only if using the factory spindle attachment bolts.If you are using Eibach part # 81250K then no,metal cutting(elongating the bolt hole in the strut body) is not required.H&R Springs makes a similar product as do
others,utilizing a cam bolt for adjustment.

 

Okay, have you actually tried to install the cam bolt in a Cobalt strut yet? It doesn't go through the hole.

 

No I havnt had to install the bolt yet, I have just done the alignment before I put the bolt in, Then come to find out, they dont need it so I tell them to put the Camber kit on ebay

 

Yes,I have them installed in mine.I did not remove any metal from the strut housing.I have plus or minus one and a half degrees of adjustment.It worked well for me.
I have my camber set at - 1.25 degrees.

 

What are the torque specs for the bolts? And what do you mean sitting squarely in the hubs?

 

If you check my How-To thread on strut replacement, it has all of the torque specs listed. And your rotor for your brake mounts to your wheel hub, so if there is any rust or other crap back there preventing it from sitting flat, the rotor will be slightly croocked.

 

2 QUESTIONS: 1) What is a good camber setting on front for performance driving& track days? 2) Can rear camber be adjusted in anyway? Thanks...

 

GM Racing publishes a set of front alignment specs along with their performance steering knuckles. That information is available on this site, try a search.

The rears are only adjustable with the use of shim plates installed between the hub and the axle. And it's a pain the ass. Or you could do the modifications they show in the build book for some of the race cars.

 

^Thanks 1/2; can the camber adjustment bolt kit be installed on a Cobalt with stock springs& how much is involved in installing them?

 

First, while there is some argument within this thread about whether or not you can even use a camber bolt (I still say it won't even fit through the hole), if you could fit it, then sure, you could use it. But why?

If it were possible, you simply remove the existing bolts and replace them with the camber bolts.

 

It is possible, I have done it to my own. There are two different bolt sizes the smaller stuff fits our balts. Also the rear end is adjustable however DO NOT get cobalt rear shims. If you want to shim the rear get Cavalier grey rear shims. They require some modification but they fit and are far superior in adjustment.

 

Does anyone have info on Goldline springs and bump stops cause my springs did not come with instructions?