C5 brakes on the balt
09-10-2006, 12:35 AM
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C5 brakes on the balt
I was just brainstorming a cheap yet very cool solution to doning a brake up grade. What if we could get some brackets made for the balt to adapt C5 calipers and rotors. I know this would cause a different bolt pattern, that would also open up the choices for wheel selection.
This mod is very common on the Fbodys. New set of brackets run about $200-$275. Z06 calipers can be had off Ebay for fairly cheep compared to other brake options out there. this would be a very effective brake mod and would definetley fill the room behind the wheels.
Other possible problems. Would need to convert rear disc to the same bolt pattern, Is the brake MC strong enough to operate larger calipers? obviously finding someone to fabricate up some brackets for a trial run.
Does anyone feel like this is not going to be resonably doable? other thought/opinions!!!!!!!
This mod is very common on the Fbodys. New set of brackets run about $200-$275. Z06 calipers can be had off Ebay for fairly cheep compared to other brake options out there. this would be a very effective brake mod and would definetley fill the room behind the wheels.
Other possible problems. Would need to convert rear disc to the same bolt pattern, Is the brake MC strong enough to operate larger calipers? obviously finding someone to fabricate up some brackets for a trial run.
Does anyone feel like this is not going to be resonably doable? other thought/opinions!!!!!!!
09-10-2006, 12:46 AM
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I sent an email to LGmotorsports which is who provides the conversion brackets for the fbody's. Hopefully i will hear something from them on monday or so! Maybe if some other members would send over an email it may get their attention.....who knows!!!
09-10-2006, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by alleycat58
Not a good option for those of us that like to run smaller/lighter wheels though...
This is very true. I beleive 17" would be the min. for this type of set up!
09-10-2006, 02:12 AM
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I'm just throwing it out there that if you upgrade the brakes on this car, your either and idiot or running 10s on the street. Just my opinion, but I can stop in half the distance as everyone I know. There's a reason why we have ceramic brakes. Know, you wanna do a nice mod to them like polish them, your cool. 
09-10-2006, 12:41 PM
#10
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I think that the brakes are enough on the balt for street use.
it might look cool, but I think you may end up with more trouble and expense than anything else.
it might look cool, but I think you may end up with more trouble and expense than anything else.
09-10-2006, 12:50 PM
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It shouldnt be any trouble to do...do you know if the rotors will fit??? If that is the case then the conversion shouldnt be difficult at all...very good and hopefully not too expensive way to get great brakes
09-13-2006, 05:14 PM
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I got an email back from LG motorsports and they said that they do not prdict having any conversion lits out in the near future.
I will agree with most of you that the balt's factory brakes are great for daily driving and drag racing, but I have done some twisties in my car and they do get spongy after a lap or two of hard braking. While this problem could easily be fixed with better quality pads/rotors stainless braklines, etc.. it shure would be cool to have some Vette calipers/rotors filling up all that space behind the wheel.
bigger calipers/rotors = more leverage, better heat disapation = better stopping!!!!
I personally only see this having to cost a lot of money for the first time i.e. fabbing up brackets for the front and rear. Once the brackets are made the first time, they can be reproduced at affordable prices. As for the calipers/rotors/pads/etc they are already a proven budget solution to bigger brakes.
So needless to say i think this can be done and done cost effective <$1000 I am going to check with some local fabrication shops and see what they say.....stay tuned............
I will agree with most of you that the balt's factory brakes are great for daily driving and drag racing, but I have done some twisties in my car and they do get spongy after a lap or two of hard braking. While this problem could easily be fixed with better quality pads/rotors stainless braklines, etc.. it shure would be cool to have some Vette calipers/rotors filling up all that space behind the wheel.
bigger calipers/rotors = more leverage, better heat disapation = better stopping!!!!
I personally only see this having to cost a lot of money for the first time i.e. fabbing up brackets for the front and rear. Once the brackets are made the first time, they can be reproduced at affordable prices. As for the calipers/rotors/pads/etc they are already a proven budget solution to bigger brakes.
So needless to say i think this can be done and done cost effective <$1000 I am going to check with some local fabrication shops and see what they say.....stay tuned............
09-15-2006, 05:11 AM
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This can be done and cheaply.
First thing you need to find out is if the Vet brakes have the same rotor offset as the coblat brakes do. This is your bigest proble if it is not close this will not work no mater what you do with the vet rotors and you will have to find other rotors that will work and that could up the cost alot.
Next thing you need to do is find a place to make a set of calaper spacers to alow you to mount the vet calapers to the stock steering knuckles. This should not be to hard to make but if there to weak they will fail and you will have alot of damage to you rim and possably crash. So be carefull who you have make them.
Now if all that gose well you will need parts. As you said Ebay is a good place to get some used parts for cheap but you can also end up with bad calapers and that will coust you alot more in the end so becarefull there to.
Next thing in your way is the stock master cylinder. Can it move enuff fluid to operate the vet calapers without exesive pedal travel?
You will need to find out the diamiter and stroke of the vet Master cylinder and the coblats and then find out how much fluid they both move. If its not even close you have a new problem. One I dont have a fix for. Good luck on that one.
Next you need to get the stock vet rotors to fit the 110x5 bolt patern. Now this is the easy part. You all have made this sound so hard and yet the ansser has been done and tested on the j-body cars for you.
You simply drill a second bolt patern in to the rotors just as they did for the grand prix conversons on the j-bodys years ago. Easy fix!!!
Then all you need to do is get some lines made that will connect to the the vet calapers and stock cobalt brake lines and your set.
One thing you have not looked at is that this might not perform the way you would like.
This is do to the stock cobalts valveing on the brake systom.
The stock vet might put more fluid to the fronts or rears do to its weaght distribution being differant then the cobalts.
This might make the car have a tendancy to try and lock the front or rear brakes up on you any time you ask for some heavry braking. This could potentaly pissoff the stock ABS systom on the cobalt big time.
These are all things that would need to be adressed befor this can be called a true upgrade. As it may get you nothing more then an unstable car under hard braking and big looking brakes as some of the more expensive kits out there often do.
And Im not talking about cobalt kits but brake kits for all cars.
Not all of them can out perform the stock brakes that they replaced for stoping distences.
Later.
First thing you need to find out is if the Vet brakes have the same rotor offset as the coblat brakes do. This is your bigest proble if it is not close this will not work no mater what you do with the vet rotors and you will have to find other rotors that will work and that could up the cost alot.
Next thing you need to do is find a place to make a set of calaper spacers to alow you to mount the vet calapers to the stock steering knuckles. This should not be to hard to make but if there to weak they will fail and you will have alot of damage to you rim and possably crash. So be carefull who you have make them.
Now if all that gose well you will need parts. As you said Ebay is a good place to get some used parts for cheap but you can also end up with bad calapers and that will coust you alot more in the end so becarefull there to.
Next thing in your way is the stock master cylinder. Can it move enuff fluid to operate the vet calapers without exesive pedal travel?
You will need to find out the diamiter and stroke of the vet Master cylinder and the coblats and then find out how much fluid they both move. If its not even close you have a new problem. One I dont have a fix for. Good luck on that one.
Next you need to get the stock vet rotors to fit the 110x5 bolt patern. Now this is the easy part. You all have made this sound so hard and yet the ansser has been done and tested on the j-body cars for you.
You simply drill a second bolt patern in to the rotors just as they did for the grand prix conversons on the j-bodys years ago. Easy fix!!!
Then all you need to do is get some lines made that will connect to the the vet calapers and stock cobalt brake lines and your set.
One thing you have not looked at is that this might not perform the way you would like.
This is do to the stock cobalts valveing on the brake systom.
The stock vet might put more fluid to the fronts or rears do to its weaght distribution being differant then the cobalts.
This might make the car have a tendancy to try and lock the front or rear brakes up on you any time you ask for some heavry braking. This could potentaly pissoff the stock ABS systom on the cobalt big time.
These are all things that would need to be adressed befor this can be called a true upgrade. As it may get you nothing more then an unstable car under hard braking and big looking brakes as some of the more expensive kits out there often do.
And Im not talking about cobalt kits but brake kits for all cars.
Not all of them can out perform the stock brakes that they replaced for stoping distences.
Later.
09-16-2006, 02:45 PM
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^^ you have made some very great points...my homework is being done now to find out some of this info. I dont have any idea as to find out if the brake bias in the car would change due to mis-matched caliper. If fronts and rears are converted, would this then allow for the system to be even? Doing so would also drive the cost some, but i still think it would be under what a "big brake" upgrade would be.
The "valving" you are speaking of is in the MC....correct? If thats so, then as long as the balt MC can move enough fluid, it doesnt seem as though the brake bias in the car would change.
Doesnt the abs system use wheel speed sensors that get a reading from the rotors? If this is the case would a larger diameter rotor throw the sensor off to make it think it is going slower than it really is? <----Would it even matter if it did?
The "valving" you are speaking of is in the MC....correct? If thats so, then as long as the balt MC can move enough fluid, it doesnt seem as though the brake bias in the car would change.
Doesnt the abs system use wheel speed sensors that get a reading from the rotors? If this is the case would a larger diameter rotor throw the sensor off to make it think it is going slower than it really is? <----Would it even matter if it did?
09-17-2006, 01:27 AM
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vette rotors are offset 38mm in the front and 42mm rear....still asking and searching for more info!
does anyone know what the specs are for the 'balt rotors?
does anyone know what the specs are for the 'balt rotors?
10-07-2006, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RpSS4844
^^ you have made some very great points...my homework is being done now to find out some of this info. I dont have any idea as to find out if the brake bias in the car would change due to mis-matched caliper. If fronts and rears are converted, would this then allow for the system to be even? Doing so would also drive the cost some, but i still think it would be under what a "big brake" upgrade would be.
The "valving" you are speaking of is in the MC....correct? If thats so, then as long as the balt MC can move enough fluid, it doesnt seem as though the brake bias in the car would change.
Doesnt the abs system use wheel speed sensors that get a reading from the rotors? If this is the case would a larger diameter rotor throw the sensor off to make it think it is going slower than it really is? <----Would it even matter if it did?
The "valving" you are speaking of is in the MC....correct? If thats so, then as long as the balt MC can move enough fluid, it doesnt seem as though the brake bias in the car would change.
Doesnt the abs system use wheel speed sensors that get a reading from the rotors? If this is the case would a larger diameter rotor throw the sensor off to make it think it is going slower than it really is? <----Would it even matter if it did?
The ABS should work the same as it did stock.
The master cylinder may be able to move enuff fluid but will you have to push the peddle 2" to get the braks to come on after the swap? You will have to find that out.
First thing you need to know is if the `brakes will even fit on the cobalt. Then go from there.
Later
10-09-2006, 06:17 PM
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Not sure what kind of cobalt you have, but the SS/SC brakes do not get spongy. I just took my car to the Autobahn courntey club last weekend. It is a 2.2mile road course, 2 laps, makes it about 4.5 miles round trip.
In the rear straight, you can get the car up to 120, and have to brake in a rediculously short distance, because the hardest corner of the track follows. The brakes showed no noticable signs of fade durring all 16 laps. Doing a conversion like this may look good, and perform well, but will be way over kill for anything you need to do. We have light cars, they don't take a hole lot to stop.
In the rear straight, you can get the car up to 120, and have to brake in a rediculously short distance, because the hardest corner of the track follows. The brakes showed no noticable signs of fade durring all 16 laps. Doing a conversion like this may look good, and perform well, but will be way over kill for anything you need to do. We have light cars, they don't take a hole lot to stop.
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