Dreaded rear breaks.....2 options
So I took my 08' SS/TC to my local Les Schwab (they know me very well because of work) and my local mechanic (that does all my oil changes and maintenance) about this rear break issue, being that the dealership is dicking me around like everyone else (I'll never go back to the dealership).
Les Schwab said that he would like to replace the calipers, rotors and break pads and "thinks" this might fix the problem with them wearing out so quickly and uneven. Cost $450
My Mechanic said he doesn't think that the calipers need replaced and would just like to replace the rotors and break pads with aftermarket parts (he named Wagner and Reybestos) and "thinks" that will fix the problem. Cost $245
So what do you think? What would or have you done?
I've read some of the thread about reporting the problem so we can get a recal....that thing is so f'ing long. What I didn't see though is much about what was causing the problem or how to fix it, some said things they did, but I didn't see if what they did fixed the problem after running with it for 5k+ miles.
Has anyone successfully fixed this problem or are you still haveing to replace both rotor and break pads every 10k to 20k miles?
Thanks in advance.
Les Schwab said that he would like to replace the calipers, rotors and break pads and "thinks" this might fix the problem with them wearing out so quickly and uneven. Cost $450
My Mechanic said he doesn't think that the calipers need replaced and would just like to replace the rotors and break pads with aftermarket parts (he named Wagner and Reybestos) and "thinks" that will fix the problem. Cost $245
So what do you think? What would or have you done?
I've read some of the thread about reporting the problem so we can get a recal....that thing is so f'ing long. What I didn't see though is much about what was causing the problem or how to fix it, some said things they did, but I didn't see if what they did fixed the problem after running with it for 5k+ miles.
Has anyone successfully fixed this problem or are you still haveing to replace both rotor and break pads every 10k to 20k miles?
Thanks in advance.
replace rear rotors and rear pads yourself, cut the middle man out all together. Much cheaper that way. Get NAPA or R1Concept rotors and EBC or Hawk pads. Problem fixed.
I replace all four rotors and pad sets cause I bought slotted rotors. but you really just need to replace the rear pads and rotors.
I replace all four rotors and pad sets cause I bought slotted rotors. but you really just need to replace the rear pads and rotors.
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
So I took my 08' SS/TC to my local Les Schwab (they know me very well because of work) and my local mechanic (that does all my oil changes and maintenance) about this rear break issue, being that the dealership is dicking me around like everyone else (I'll never go back to the dealership).
Les Schwab said that he would like to replace the calipers, rotors and break pads and "thinks" this might fix the problem with them wearing out so quickly and uneven. Cost $450
My Mechanic said he doesn't think that the calipers need replaced and would just like to replace the rotors and break pads with aftermarket parts (he named Wagner and Reybestos) and "thinks" that will fix the problem. Cost $245
So what do you think? What would or have you done?
I've read some of the thread about reporting the problem so we can get a recal....that thing is so f'ing long. What I didn't see though is much about what was causing the problem or how to fix it, some said things they did, but I didn't see if what they did fixed the problem after running with it for 5k+ miles.
Has anyone successfully fixed this problem or are you still haveing to replace both rotor and break pads every 10k to 20k miles?
Thanks in advance.
Les Schwab said that he would like to replace the calipers, rotors and break pads and "thinks" this might fix the problem with them wearing out so quickly and uneven. Cost $450
My Mechanic said he doesn't think that the calipers need replaced and would just like to replace the rotors and break pads with aftermarket parts (he named Wagner and Reybestos) and "thinks" that will fix the problem. Cost $245
So what do you think? What would or have you done?
I've read some of the thread about reporting the problem so we can get a recal....that thing is so f'ing long. What I didn't see though is much about what was causing the problem or how to fix it, some said things they did, but I didn't see if what they did fixed the problem after running with it for 5k+ miles.
Has anyone successfully fixed this problem or are you still haveing to replace both rotor and break pads every 10k to 20k miles?
Thanks in advance.
I've heard this thrown around... but after having the chance to look at an SS/TC where the rear brakes were gone after 25k... The rear calipers weren't hanging on the slide. Even though there wasn't any lube there.
So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
Likes: 7
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
Had the dealer R&R my rear brakes at 13k. They lubed the pins. Now at 30k brakes are even, no odd wear, no squeeling, no issues. Brakes will be good for a long time to come by the looks of it.
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
Let me see if I am getting this right. The pads are wearing more on the top or bottom of the pad? If so I am having the same issue with my LS for the front drivers side. The "pins" are you talking about the clip things that the pads slide into or is there some thing different on the SS's. If it is the "clip/pin" that I am thinking of. Is all I have to do is slap some grease in there and that would correct the problem? Is there any special grease I should use?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I've heard this thrown around... but after having the chance to look at an SS/TC where the rear brakes were gone after 25k... The rear calipers weren't hanging on the slide. Even though there wasn't any lube there.
So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
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