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Dreaded rear breaks.....2 options

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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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From: Southern, OR
Question Dreaded rear breaks.....2 options

So I took my 08' SS/TC to my local Les Schwab (they know me very well because of work) and my local mechanic (that does all my oil changes and maintenance) about this rear break issue, being that the dealership is dicking me around like everyone else (I'll never go back to the dealership).

Les Schwab said that he would like to replace the calipers, rotors and break pads and "thinks" this might fix the problem with them wearing out so quickly and uneven. Cost $450

My Mechanic said he doesn't think that the calipers need replaced and would just like to replace the rotors and break pads with aftermarket parts (he named Wagner and Reybestos) and "thinks" that will fix the problem. Cost $245

So what do you think? What would or have you done?

I've read some of the thread about reporting the problem so we can get a recal....that thing is so f'ing long. What I didn't see though is much about what was causing the problem or how to fix it, some said things they did, but I didn't see if what they did fixed the problem after running with it for 5k+ miles.

Has anyone successfully fixed this problem or are you still haveing to replace both rotor and break pads every 10k to 20k miles?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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From: Newark, DE
replace rear rotors and rear pads yourself, cut the middle man out all together. Much cheaper that way. Get NAPA or R1Concept rotors and EBC or Hawk pads. Problem fixed.

I replace all four rotors and pad sets cause I bought slotted rotors. but you really just need to replace the rear pads and rotors.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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From: Berea, ky
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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From: Columbus, GA
I changed the rotors to the r1 concept, greased the pin on the caliber's & change the pads since was there no problem almost 20000 miles later
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by mccullj
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
I've heard this thrown around... but after having the chance to look at an SS/TC where the rear brakes were gone after 25k... The rear calipers weren't hanging on the slide. Even though there wasn't any lube there.

So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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From: Windsor NS
Originally Posted by SSHaze
So I took my 08' SS/TC to my local Les Schwab (they know me very well because of work) and my local mechanic (that does all my oil changes and maintenance) about this rear break issue, being that the dealership is dicking me around like everyone else (I'll never go back to the dealership).

Les Schwab said that he would like to replace the calipers, rotors and break pads and "thinks" this might fix the problem with them wearing out so quickly and uneven. Cost $450

My Mechanic said he doesn't think that the calipers need replaced and would just like to replace the rotors and break pads with aftermarket parts (he named Wagner and Reybestos) and "thinks" that will fix the problem. Cost $245

So what do you think? What would or have you done?

I've read some of the thread about reporting the problem so we can get a recal....that thing is so f'ing long. What I didn't see though is much about what was causing the problem or how to fix it, some said things they did, but I didn't see if what they did fixed the problem after running with it for 5k+ miles.

Has anyone successfully fixed this problem or are you still haveing to replace both rotor and break pads every 10k to 20k miles?

Thanks in advance.
go to a different dealership and show the service manager the difference between your shitty rear brakes and rotors vs the nice clean smooth ones up front. i got new pads and rotors on the rears of my balt at 34,000km under warranty
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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From: Windsor NS
Originally Posted by Malaclypse
I've heard this thrown around... but after having the chance to look at an SS/TC where the rear brakes were gone after 25k... The rear calipers weren't hanging on the slide. Even though there wasn't any lube there.

So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
only slightly... when the inner piston pushes the inner pads against the rotors it pulls the outer pad into the rotor as well. it should be close to the same pressure for both pads unless it's not greased properly and one is binding.
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
Originally Posted by mccullj
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.

Had the dealer R&R my rear brakes at 13k. They lubed the pins. Now at 30k brakes are even, no odd wear, no squeeling, no issues. Brakes will be good for a long time to come by the looks of it.
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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From: Cali
Originally Posted by mccullj
the problem is that the caliper pins weren't lubed properly from the factory. replace your pads and rotors and make sure the caliper pins are lubed well when you re install them. wagner and raybestos are good OE replacement parts if thats what you want. you don't have to go with aftermarket stuff if you don't choose to.
I just had someone come in to my work about the same issue......I have a 06 SS/SC.....and over 60k on the rear brakes...and still have at least 40% left......no wear issues......but...I will say that yes..there wasnt alot of lube on the rear calipers....if you dont lube it right.....the pads will wear unevenly due to the caliper not being able to retract when you let off the brake.....
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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From: Johnstown PA
Let me see if I am getting this right. The pads are wearing more on the top or bottom of the pad? If so I am having the same issue with my LS for the front drivers side. The "pins" are you talking about the clip things that the pads slide into or is there some thing different on the SS's. If it is the "clip/pin" that I am thinking of. Is all I have to do is slap some grease in there and that would correct the problem? Is there any special grease I should use?

Thanks!
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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From: Laredo, TX
my rear brakes make crazy noice when turning and braking its embarrasing. what lubricant should i purchase to lube up the pins u speek of.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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From: Fond Du Lac, WI
Originally Posted by Malaclypse
I've heard this thrown around... but after having the chance to look at an SS/TC where the rear brakes were gone after 25k... The rear calipers weren't hanging on the slide. Even though there wasn't any lube there.

So I actually would rule that out as the issue. Its just how the piston of the caliper is pressing only on the inside pad. It takes the brunt of the force.
Just remember there is torsional force because the caliper is being pulled on counter clockwise when your stopping, so if it's not lubed you will not get an even wear pattern. I lubed my slide pins with permatex ceramic brake lube and added a touch to the ends of the pad to keep them from binding as well. Things have been fine since.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #13  
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From: Cali
Originally Posted by toeknee(ss)
my rear brakes make crazy noice when turning and braking its embarrasing. what lubricant should i purchase to lube up the pins u speek of.
any brake lithuim grease.....
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:47 AM
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Alleynejl
I changed the rotors to the r1 concept, greased the pin on the caliber's & change the pads since was there no problem almost 20000 miles later
Same here. No issues since then. 10k later.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #15  
toeknee(ss)'s Avatar
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From: Laredo, TX
Originally Posted by calicobaltSS
any brake lithuim grease.....
fo sho.....
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:03 PM
  #16  
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From: uniontown, Robinson, Towanda.PA
Originally Posted by cubaniche
Same here. No issues since then. 10k later.
same here, R1 D/S rotors, hawk HPS pad. about 8k they still look good.
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