Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Eibach to Pedders?

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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #26  
ls1fbody's Avatar
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From: Costa Mesa CA
Originally Posted by Rissa
I can feel it in my steering wheel though.
Really? I don't remember that, but i don;t drive it regularly like you do.

It's possible, but it doesn't really rattle, it's a pretty solid muffled kinda clunk right?
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #27  
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It's like the car is saying CLUNK lol when I turn the wheel hard lol I pulled it out of my garage today and it didn't do it. Oh btw Bryan says hi lol.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:33 PM
  #28  
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Haz l33t wheelz.
 
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From: Costa Mesa CA
Haha, say hi to Brian for me! he he

Well, if you want i'll drive it tomorrow night? maybe it'll make the noise and we can try and diagnose it?

Like i said, i think the stress of the traction of the stationary tire on the pavement, with the force of the wheel turning, causes the control arm bushing to deform just enough that it allows the control arm to come into contact with your stabilizer bar. This is just me sitting on the couch watching Eric and Nicole play Guitar Hero. I could be wrong, but i want to look at it again before you take it to Delillo(?) for them to look at.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:39 PM
  #29  
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A clicking or clunking noise could be your CV joints. Lowering can cause premature CV wear if I'm not mistaken. Especially with an aggressive drop like the H&R's.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #30  
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^^^ I heard that also....not down with that lol. Sure Will you can drive it tomorrow but we won't have time to look at it really. And the stock springs are being put back on before I take it to Delillo lol.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #31  
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Haz l33t wheelz.
 
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From: Costa Mesa CA
Originally Posted by Rissa
^^^ I heard that also....not down with that lol. Sure Will you can drive it tomorrow but we won't have time to look at it really. And the stock springs are being put back on before I take it to Delillo lol.
lol ok, you warranty fiend.

It's not the CV's.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #32  
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Well what does the rest of your weekend look like? It would be better to look at it during the day lol.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #33  
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Haz l33t wheelz.
 
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From: Costa Mesa CA
Originally Posted by Rissa
Well what does the rest of your weekend look like? It would be better to look at it during the day lol.
I'm booked most of saturday as far as i know, i'm not doing anything tomorrow i don't think unless Diane wants to do lunch. You work though don't you?

Sunday, i'm going to a car show with Steve from 7-10am. I dunno what my afternoon is.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #34  
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Yeah I work tomorrow Sunday would be the only good day and I'm free after 1:30.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #35  
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From: Port Perry Ontario
Originally Posted by Rissa
Explain more please lol. I bought their adjustable endlinks hoping that would help but it hasn't.
i see checking some of this stuff that you have new links. the flca joints can be an issue ifyou dont ahve an ss/sc and its an 05 car or 06 even (Maven can help) it may have a problem with the sway bar brackets that hold the sway bar in place if the bar is hitting the lower control arm the single bolt and tab fixing of the FE1-3 cars can get loose. my .02 c
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #36  
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Haz l33t wheelz.
 
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From: Costa Mesa CA
It's an 08 Turbo, lowered on H&R's, does that help John?
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 11:22 PM
  #37  
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What he said.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:00 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ls1fbody
It's an 08 Turbo, lowered on H&R's, does that help John?
The H&R's are not good for that car. It is possible that whoever put them on, got the top spring hat thrust bearing damaged. Or the hat facing the wrong way. That would make clunks when turning. It could be so many things. If I owned the car I would either go back to the stock springs or put Pedders on and put on a rear OTTP bar. The sway bar should NOT hit the flca. Something is wrong.
nI worked on a 'balt today, the guy looks after it, the front springs had been put on with an impact guy so hard it was crazy. People do things on flat rate that drive me crazy and wreck cars....

A car that new, an 08, to make suspension noise, assuming that it has not been beaten to crap on the race track, well its is simple . It should not be making noises. A tech like Maven could figure that car out in a few minutes. There has to be reliable people in Huntingdon Beach who could look at it. At the moment I have no idea where you could go, all my california contacts are into different racing things.

so no ideas other than : 1 basic.2 maybe screwed up by someone working on the car. 3 cant be a very complex answer...
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:05 AM
  #39  
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I can tell you that I'm not rough on the car at all, and I try my hardest to avoid shitty roads to not hurt it. It's going to get looked at Sunday afternoon.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:11 AM
  #40  
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^thread jacked^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


from what i recall, the pedders actually are less of a drop than the sportlines refering to the op.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:16 AM
  #41  
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You need my stock springs on asap!
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #42  
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Yeah I do....lol does anyone have a spring compressor?
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:19 AM
  #43  
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Autozone rents them out when you return it they give the full refund back
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:21 AM
  #44  
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Ok then that looks like what I'll do! lol
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 02:22 AM
  #45  
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Haz l33t wheelz.
 
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From: Costa Mesa CA
We'll check it marisa. I'm pretty sure i know what John is talking about. I can't 100% vouch for the front simply because Fernando did them.

I'll bring the toque specs with me so you can have them on hand.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ls1fbody
We'll check it marisa. I'm pretty sure i know what John is talking about. I can't 100% vouch for the front simply because Fernando did them.

I'll bring the toque specs with me so you can have them on hand.
ya dont need a spring compressor.

loosen but do not remove main strut nut 21mm
jack car put on stands.

put jack under control arm with tension
undo knuckle to strut bolts and nuts 18mm. do not remove bolts. place abs bracket to one side
remove drop link at strut.
go back up remove big nut and then go back down
remove knuckle bolts relax jack
remove strut and change spring. make note of where everything is. the tab on the top spring hat goes to the inside. check thrust bearing and regrease
reassemble in reverse.
check with maven that this is correct.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 11:51 AM
  #47  
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Dang that sounds like a lot lol.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #48  
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If only I knew those instructions before. lol
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:26 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Baron7700
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^thread jacked^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


from what i recall, the pedders actually are less of a drop than the sportlines refering to the op.
Correct. IIRC the Pedders springs have 1/2" to 3/4" less drop than the sportlines.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Terminator2
Correct. IIRC the Pedders springs have 1/2" to 3/4" less drop than the sportlines.
Its actually less than a 1/2" difference from what I remember. Ill have to see if I wrote it down anywhere when I swapped Steddys. He went from sportlines to Pedders.
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