FE3 Links dead, replace to FE5? Possible?
FE3 Links dead, replace to FE5? Possible?
Just like the title says.. I have a SS/NA with FE3 suspension, and need to replace the sway bar links. I went to the dealership and they were $76 for both sides. The current sway bar is 22mm, but I was thinking of swapping to the 24mm Eibach sway bar.. I heard that the FE3/FE5 links are different sizes (which mean different cost).
Is it worth switching to the FE5 links? What has to change? Can I swap the 22mm sway to the 24mm Eibach? Is there a performance diff in the FE5?
Is it worth switching to the FE5 links? What has to change? Can I swap the 22mm sway to the 24mm Eibach? Is there a performance diff in the FE5?
FE5 links are shorter than FE3 links. Don't replace with stock, get the Moog endlinks. I think people have run the FE5 links on an FE3, but someone with more experience with that suspension can chime in.
Front sway bar isn't worth the hassle.
Front sway bar isn't worth the hassle.
After some thinking.. getting the sway bar might not be such a goo idea.. the extra 2mm really might not be worth the $180 or whatever. I'll wait to hear some feedback on on the links.. Thx Alleycat!
Just take a peek under there and see what all is involved in taking the front bar out - it is a MAJOR PITA. I had 2 set of end links and the rubber bushings for the sway bar go bad.....so we just cut the front bar out completely. Cheaper. Easier. No more headaches.
lol, I can see deleting the bar would make help, but that would compromise handling. (I love handling over power, just my own personal preference) Did it seem the moogs lasted longer?
I didn't replace mine with Moogs, I got stockers for free from a friend. But yes, the Moogs do tend to last longer.
Actually it is, I went from the fe1 19mm bar to fe5 23mm and fe5 endlinks. Its a day and night difference.
edit op wants to change it for a 1mm difference then probably not worth it lol its a pain in the ass to remove and re install, I ended up taking half the car apart to do it.
edit op wants to change it for a 1mm difference then probably not worth it lol its a pain in the ass to remove and re install, I ended up taking half the car apart to do it.
Yea, I was going to say going from FE1 to FE5 would be a good upgrade, congrats on the swap. Having FE3, I can't see it worth it.. I realize this conversation was occurring in another thread.. I just called O Reilly Auto Parts, and I'm getting the Moog FE3 links.. from what I've heard it's addressed the noise, and torque steer. There was another brand that she mentioned as well, but I'll get some parts numbers posted in when I get get back.
Yea, I was going to say going from FE1 to FE5 would be a good upgrade, congrats on the swap. Having FE3, I can't see it worth it.. I realize this conversation was occurring in another thread.. I just called O Reilly Auto Parts, and I'm getting the Moog FE3 links.. from what I've heard it's addressed the noise, and torque steer. There was another brand that she mentioned as well, but I'll get some parts numbers posted in when I get get back.
Moog or PowerGrid (adjustable) are the only ones I would go with, honestly.

I only heard that it would rid the steer issue, but the noise it for sure. A friend of mine took a looksee under and shook the links with his fingers.. I didn't know about the PowerGrid links.. Anyway I just got back in, here's the numbers that O'Reilly gave me:
FE3:
Moog - K80252 $42.99 /each
MasterPro - K80252 $34.99 /each
FE5:
Moog - K750012 $33.99 /each
MasterPro - K750012 $16.99 /each
I didn't get to actually see the MasterPro, but the Rep said that the MasterPro's have zerk fittings as well, but don't last as long as the Moog's.
(sorry for the pic being gigantic, I'll fix the size for future posts)
I got the power grid endlinks. They are expensive but worth it in my opinion. Totally silent over bumps and are built to last. if you are interested i have a set of fe1 and fe5 laying around. They are used tho with about 5k miles on each set.
Dear GM,
So last night I started getting everything ready for the replacement of my new Moog Sway Bar Links. I was super excited, as this is the first aftermarket part that I've purchased, that is actually worth it. Taking off the wheel and examining the drivers side link, I noticed that the upper portion was mounted, however the bottom ball joint connecting the link to the sway bar was rusted and completely independent.. Sweet. This shouldn't be bad, I'll just use the impact on one side and a wrench on the other. No luck. The joint is larger than the nut, so it won't fit. After about an hour of unsuccessful manual labor in attempt to break lose the nut, we've decided to bust out.. the drill. Complete set of Masonry bits and Titanium Coated Steel bits, this should be breeze. We began drilling the smaller inside portion of the ball on the end through the center, then rotating the drill to 'saw' it off. Success! But we're still unable to get the nut to budge.. We're either going to bust out ..the Dremel.. or bring it in to a shop.. Thanks for marketing a car to be driven like this, but not be able to handle it.. Really. KTHXBAI.
So last night I started getting everything ready for the replacement of my new Moog Sway Bar Links. I was super excited, as this is the first aftermarket part that I've purchased, that is actually worth it. Taking off the wheel and examining the drivers side link, I noticed that the upper portion was mounted, however the bottom ball joint connecting the link to the sway bar was rusted and completely independent.. Sweet. This shouldn't be bad, I'll just use the impact on one side and a wrench on the other. No luck. The joint is larger than the nut, so it won't fit. After about an hour of unsuccessful manual labor in attempt to break lose the nut, we've decided to bust out.. the drill. Complete set of Masonry bits and Titanium Coated Steel bits, this should be breeze. We began drilling the smaller inside portion of the ball on the end through the center, then rotating the drill to 'saw' it off. Success! But we're still unable to get the nut to budge.. We're either going to bust out ..the Dremel.. or bring it in to a shop.. Thanks for marketing a car to be driven like this, but not be able to handle it.. Really. KTHXBAI.
Dear GM,
So last night I started getting everything ready for the replacement of my new Moog Sway Bar Links. I was super excited, as this is the first aftermarket part that I've purchased, that is actually worth it. Taking off the wheel and examining the drivers side link, I noticed that the upper portion was mounted, however the bottom ball joint connecting the link to the sway bar was rusted and completely independent.. Sweet. This shouldn't be bad, I'll just use the impact on one side and a wrench on the other. No luck. The joint is larger than the nut, so it won't fit. After about an hour of unsuccessful manual labor in attempt to break lose the nut, we've decided to bust out.. the drill. Complete set of Masonry bits and Titanium Coated Steel bits, this should be breeze. We began drilling the smaller inside portion of the ball on the end through the center, then rotating the drill to 'saw' it off. Success! But we're still unable to get the nut to budge.. We're either going to bust out ..the Dremel.. or bring it in to a shop.. Thanks for marketing a car to be driven like this, but not be able to handle it.. Really. KTHXBAI.
So last night I started getting everything ready for the replacement of my new Moog Sway Bar Links. I was super excited, as this is the first aftermarket part that I've purchased, that is actually worth it. Taking off the wheel and examining the drivers side link, I noticed that the upper portion was mounted, however the bottom ball joint connecting the link to the sway bar was rusted and completely independent.. Sweet. This shouldn't be bad, I'll just use the impact on one side and a wrench on the other. No luck. The joint is larger than the nut, so it won't fit. After about an hour of unsuccessful manual labor in attempt to break lose the nut, we've decided to bust out.. the drill. Complete set of Masonry bits and Titanium Coated Steel bits, this should be breeze. We began drilling the smaller inside portion of the ball on the end through the center, then rotating the drill to 'saw' it off. Success! But we're still unable to get the nut to budge.. We're either going to bust out ..the Dremel.. or bring it in to a shop.. Thanks for marketing a car to be driven like this, but not be able to handle it.. Really. KTHXBAI.
Yea, I didn't really need to post that, just after being up for 3 hours I was kinda bitter, lol. Me and a friend are going to dremmel out the bolt and get the new ones in.. ..super excited!..
Moogs are awsome. only problem is they are longer than stock and a pain to fit in with the strut and sway bar both attached to the car.
i do have a question though, the FE3 (what i have) is longer than FE5?
is there a benefit to having longer or shorter end links?
i do have a question though, the FE3 (what i have) is longer than FE5?
is there a benefit to having longer or shorter end links?
I stole this post from another forum.. (link here)
FE3 are 12" as well.
It would bolt up fine, and cause no issues, but the point of a shorter bar is that it transfers the force better, and with less flex = better response.
---------- Post added at 11:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:44 AM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by camopaint0707
yes
no
You are wrong, there is a definite performance increase.
A question I have in addition to yours, is this.. based on the fact that our FE3 suspension is 22mm think, and FE5 is 24mm thick, is there a shape difference in the sway bar? -If there isn't then we should be able to use the FE5 links.. BUT, on the FE3, the links connect to the strut higher up near the tower, and I'm not sure where the FE5 connects to the strut.
Last edited by Trent; Mar 25, 2011 at 07:39 PM. Reason: b/c I'm an idiot lol
The FE5 links connect to the strut just like the FE3 setup.
I used the shorter FE5 links from Moog (they have two different sets of links that they call "FE5"), but I also installed FE5 struts. I didn't swap out the FE3 bar.
I ended up using a torch to remove one of the link nuts......
I used the shorter FE5 links from Moog (they have two different sets of links that they call "FE5"), but I also installed FE5 struts. I didn't swap out the FE3 bar.
I ended up using a torch to remove one of the link nuts......
The FE5 links connect to the strut just like the FE3 setup.
I used the shorter FE5 links from Moog (they have two different sets of links that they call "FE5"), but I also installed FE5 struts. I didn't swap out the FE3 bar.
I ended up using a torch to remove one of the link nuts......
I used the shorter FE5 links from Moog (they have two different sets of links that they call "FE5"), but I also installed FE5 struts. I didn't swap out the FE3 bar.
I ended up using a torch to remove one of the link nuts......
Really? This is good news to hear! After replacing my Links, I noticed that there is tension on the sway bar (never replaced one before, so this is new knowledge
), since the FE5 links are shorter, how much tension did you have to put on the links to make the bar move up to the mount on the strut?
), since the FE5 links are shorter, how much tension did you have to put on the links to make the bar move up to the mount on the strut?
Really? This is good news to hear! After replacing my Links, I noticed that there is tension on the sway bar (never replaced one before, so this is new knowledge
), since the FE5 links are shorter, how much tension did you have to put on the links to make the bar move up to the mount on the strut?
), since the FE5 links are shorter, how much tension did you have to put on the links to make the bar move up to the mount on the strut?

