I know this topic has been beaten to death for the lower control arm, but there's very little coverage for the upper control arm bushing. I have an FE5 alloy control arm and purchased the MOOG K200361 bushing that was said to be an exact fit. I pressed out the old fitting and I'm about to press in the new and find the dimensions to be concerning. Based on my research there are no differences between years and models for the upper CAB. The new CAB looks significantly shorter and it'll be a challenge to get the rubber collars on the outside of the lip. Anyone have experience pressing this in? Tips to get this to work? Did I order the wrong part?

I know there are delrin and prothane options, I'm specifically asking about the Moog or AD Delco upper control arm bushing that looks like the pics here

 

FYI that is typically refereed to as the leading control arm bushing. The other one the trailing control arm bushing. Upper would be if there was an upper control arm which our cars do not have with the McPherson strut system. Just looking at it I would say that looks right. Your old bushing is probably stuck deformed that way from years of being installed.

As far as install goes I would guess either a lot of lube or lube combined with some sort of compression sleeve or cone that compresses the bushing to a narrower diameter as you install it. Though for all I know maybe you just lube it up and send it. Surely someone on here has installed those before.

As a side note your old bushing doesn't look to be in too bad of shape. What made you decide to replace it?

 

BTW, theyre leading and trailing bushings, there is no upper control arm on a cobalt. I think the difference youre seeing is just that the old bushing is worn out and stretched. I would try to install it.

Edit: JD beat me to it lol

 

Thanks guys I appreciate the replies so far. For the terms, I was mainly just going off of what I'm seeing on advance auto and other outlets - may help others who are searching too. I see a ton of references to the lower control arm so I'm trying to steer away from the confusion (leading vs lower)

I'm building a DF Goblin and thought since my donor had 118k miles I'll go through all of the suspension related items and replace.... this was a mistake lol lots of extra work (those ball joints... ).

I'll lube her up and let jesus take the wheel.

 

LOL ball joints are a pain in the ass on these cars because of those rivets. Good luck, let us know how it works out.

 

Lmao you don't watch zip ties n bias plies on youtube do you?

 

To close the loop, these bushings do go in butter smooth. Steps below for those in the same spot. Summary: Just fuggin' send it


1. I put them in the freezer overnight

2. Draw a white line on the control arm and the bushing to position the bushing as it should be when installing it.

3. Used a 21mm and 24mm deep sockets that I picked up from Harbor Freight. The 21mm is just wide enough to get around the metal and press on the rubber and short enough that the top of the socket pushes down on the metal as it's getting pressed. The 24mm gets used when the rubber itself could use some massaging, it's rather wide so it provides good coverage.

4. I put assembly lube on the inner loop of the control arm as well as all around the bushing

5. Used the bolt from the ball joint part to attach the control arm to the press, and put a pry bar under the control arm perch.

6. Take your time and press the bushing in. I swapped sockets and pressed the rubber and metal as required.

7. The lip of the bushing will press through the bottom side - clean up and check it out for fitment on the subframe.

I got the 20ton press from harbor freight many years ago. More than capable for this leading cab and the lower cab as well.

 

Nice pictures, it looks like it went well. You should probably paint that subframe though.

 

Nice work. You repainting your subframe as well? Is the lower right ball-joint rivet hole on your control arm key holed or what happened there?