Finally........AN AWESOME SWAY BARS SETUP!!!
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Joined: 08-03-07
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From: Blaine, MN
Yeah, but what are the FE1 spring rates? The Sportlines are better than those, correct? Yes, I know what you just said still applies, but I'm going by upgrade from factory FE1 to aftermarket.
I'm sure the Pro-kit have better spring rates right? And what is Pedders if you know off hand?
Someday I'll upgrade to something better, but for now, I like the looks aspect along with a little better handling than stock FE1.
I'm sure the Pro-kit have better spring rates right? And what is Pedders if you know off hand?
Someday I'll upgrade to something better, but for now, I like the looks aspect along with a little better handling than stock FE1.
Last edited by 007CobaltLS; Oct 4, 2009 at 10:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
This is why im honestly just going to go pedders hardcore bar and tc struts I will add a strut tower brace but honestly only adding it for looks this engine bay is ugly as sin 
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From: Delaware
Here we go again.
Maven NEVER said a front strut bar will increase traction of the rear wheels thats pure fiction. Maven DID SAY that a front strut bar is good for hanging decals on. GM strutural analysis said it didnt make any difference as the strut tower is tied into the firewall unlike the ricers and bimmers which generally have strut towers hanging in space midway between the headlights and the firewall.
I measure springs on a spring testing device. Sport lines rate at 400 lbs at 8 inches of compressed height. TC springs rate 620 lbs at 8 inches of compressed height. But it is true, the free length of the TC spring is higher, at 310 mm compared to 260 mm so these numbers are not directly comparative, but give you an idea,.... until the sportlines coil binds , its pretty much like Ajm5036 says it. Yup, pretty much
Maven NEVER said a front strut bar will increase traction of the rear wheels thats pure fiction. Maven DID SAY that a front strut bar is good for hanging decals on. GM strutural analysis said it didnt make any difference as the strut tower is tied into the firewall unlike the ricers and bimmers which generally have strut towers hanging in space midway between the headlights and the firewall.I measure springs on a spring testing device. Sport lines rate at 400 lbs at 8 inches of compressed height. TC springs rate 620 lbs at 8 inches of compressed height. But it is true, the free length of the TC spring is higher, at 310 mm compared to 260 mm so these numbers are not directly comparative, but give you an idea,.... until the sportlines coil binds , its pretty much like Ajm5036 says it. Yup, pretty much
Here we go again. Maven NEVER said a front strut bar will increase traction of the rear wheels thats pure fiction. Maven DID SAY that a front strut bar is good for hanging decals on. GM strutural analysis said it didnt make any difference as the strut tower is tied into the firewall unlike the ricers and bimmers which generally have strut towers hanging in space midway between the headlights and the firewall.
Maven NEVER said a front strut bar will increase traction of the rear wheels thats pure fiction. Maven DID SAY that a front strut bar is good for hanging decals on. GM strutural analysis said it didnt make any difference as the strut tower is tied into the firewall unlike the ricers and bimmers which generally have strut towers hanging in space midway between the headlights and the firewall.Im not going to doubt you, because IMO you two are about even when it comes to knowledge of the delta suspension setups, but then I have a question. If the front bar does nothing, why did GM decide to make it stronger in the LNF balts opposed to the LSJ balts...or why include it at all?
I am just gonna chime in a bit cuz I see my name getting thrown around.
I have NEVER endorsed the use of a front strut tower bar for anything other than extra real estate for stickers or a cool place to mount remote shock reservoirs. Qwik is correct
I have said and it has been backed up by other people who installed and subsequently removed the Eibach front bar that it is too stiff.
IF I were the OP and I had installed the Eibach bar I would make sure I had upgraded to new style SS 2 bolt sway bar clamps. Under no conditions would I run a 29mm bar with the stock 1 bolt sway bar clamps. Your just asking to pop them out of the frame....ESPECIALLY with those sticky tires.
I have NEVER endorsed the use of a front strut tower bar for anything other than extra real estate for stickers or a cool place to mount remote shock reservoirs. Qwik is correct
I have said and it has been backed up by other people who installed and subsequently removed the Eibach front bar that it is too stiff.
IF I were the OP and I had installed the Eibach bar I would make sure I had upgraded to new style SS 2 bolt sway bar clamps. Under no conditions would I run a 29mm bar with the stock 1 bolt sway bar clamps. Your just asking to pop them out of the frame....ESPECIALLY with those sticky tires.
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Joined: 02-03-08
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From: Port Perry Ontario
in his explanation of it to me in PM's he said that it would...sooooo...yea.
Im not going to doubt you, because IMO you two are about even when it comes to knowledge of the delta suspension setups, but then I have a question. If the front bar does nothing, why did GM decide to make it stronger in the LNF balts opposed to the LSJ balts...or why include it at all?
Im not going to doubt you, because IMO you two are about even when it comes to knowledge of the delta suspension setups, but then I have a question. If the front bar does nothing, why did GM decide to make it stronger in the LNF balts opposed to the LSJ balts...or why include it at all?
I measure them all the time. I have found a couple of development HHR bars to be (wait for it) .5 mm thicker...
Sorry, 007 Cobalt was correct. I was thinking sway bar the whole time. I 100% agree the strut bar doesn't do anything. It was all a mis-communication.
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From: Blaine, MN
Maven, just like everyone else has asked in other threads....
How do you tolerate stupid questions?
Anyway, back on topic...I've decided I may change one of my future items...instead of Goodyear Eagle GT's, I may get Yokohama S.Drive's or Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport's....possibly KDW 2's, but I'm leaning towards the other 2...I think those would be a lot more fun. And I guess I'll just get 225/40 like everyone else. Would like 235/35, but only 3 options and they are $200+ per tire.
How do you tolerate stupid questions?
Anyway, back on topic...I've decided I may change one of my future items...instead of Goodyear Eagle GT's, I may get Yokohama S.Drive's or Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport's....possibly KDW 2's, but I'm leaning towards the other 2...I think those would be a lot more fun. And I guess I'll just get 225/40 like everyone else. Would like 235/35, but only 3 options and they are $200+ per tire.
Last edited by 007CobaltLS; Oct 6, 2009 at 09:12 PM.
Maven, just like everyone else has asked in other threads....
How do you tolerate stupid questions?
Anyway, back on topic...I've decided I may change one of my future items...instead of Goodyear Eagle GT's, I may get Yokohama S.Drives...I think those would be a lot more fun.
How do you tolerate stupid questions?
Anyway, back on topic...I've decided I may change one of my future items...instead of Goodyear Eagle GT's, I may get Yokohama S.Drives...I think those would be a lot more fun.
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Joined: 04-25-09
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From: White Rock, BC
A stiff bar feels flat at lower speeds but at high speeds and the high laterals G's that those tires will give you, the softer springs will allow the swaybar to lift the inside tire giving you understeer.
Soft spring, stiff bar combo is good for a street car to a point. For true performance stiff springs are needed. Can't always have comfort
Soft spring, stiff bar combo is good for a street car to a point. For true performance stiff springs are needed. Can't always have comfort
A stiff bar feels flat at lower speeds but at high speeds and the high laterals G's that those tires will give you, the softer springs will allow the swaybar to lift the inside tire giving you understeer.
Soft spring, stiff bar combo is good for a street car to a point. For true performance stiff springs are needed. Can't always have comfort
Soft spring, stiff bar combo is good for a street car to a point. For true performance stiff springs are needed. Can't always have comfort
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From: Blaine, MN
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From: Port Perry Ontario
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Joined: 04-25-09
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From: White Rock, BC
I know but he's got soft eibach's. I was just stating he'll get extra understeer if he goes fast. That's all. Seem's that he just likes it flat on the street.
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