did anyone notice the gm knuckles on crateengindepot.com?

 

link?

 

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1657C188.aspx

 

Yeah those are the new heavy duty steering knuckles for Auto-X.

Or daily driving, whatever. Those are a nice replacement.

 

[noob alert]

what are they? im confused

[/noob alert]

 

Description: On cars with conventional suspension systems, the steering knuckle includes a spindle and connects the upper and lower ball joints. On cars with MacPherson strut suspension systems, the steering knuckle connects the strut assembly to the lower ball joint.


Purpose: The steering knuckle is the pivot point of the steering system, which allows the wheels to turn. On cars with conventional suspension systems, the steering knuckle�s spindle locates and supports the inner and outer wheel bearings. On cars with MacPherson strut suspension systems, the steering knuckle has an opening to allow connection of the CV axle shaft to the wheel hub and bearing assembly.

Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Have your cars alignment checked once a year. A bent or damaged steering knuckle affects proper wheel alignment. The alignment process checks the steering knuckle angles to ensure that they meet carmaker design specifications. Most SUVs, pickups and rear-wheel-drive cars need regular front wheel bearing maintenance. This can prevent expensive damage to the steering knuckle�s spindle should a bearing seize. Have the bearings cleaned, inspected and repacked with fresh lubricant every two years or 24,000 miles. If the wheel bearings are exposed to any underwater conditions, even for a short period, the bearings need to be serviced more frequently. The wheel seals should also be replaced every time the bearings are serviced. For best results, consult a qualified service technician for professional advice and service on your vehicle�s suspension and steering systems.


GM's Description!

These knuckes are designed to provide enhanced load capacity for off road use.

Technical Notes:
The knuckes are designed to use the exixting interfaces to the bearing, brake caliper, strut and control arm.
Knuckle installation does require caliper mounting bolts (pn 22649722) and lower ball joint bolt (pn 11589341) and nut (pn 11517996), included with the kit.
Bearing space plate needs modification for installation. Specific suspension point geometry - may induce increased tire wear for during street duty.

 

so this would probably be the best upgragde to do to replace the probably cheapley made stock ones?

 

Oh Yeah!

 

so then i can probably get these powdercoated or possibly polished before install?

 

Two comments on this part.

First, I wouldn't bother to replace JUST the knuckle for the sake of the knuckle. The stock unit is plenty strong. It's not weak or cheap. It's just not designed for autocross racing. The upgraded part would require you to take apart your entire front end, do a little bit of modification to the bearing plate, and get an alignment, to replace a part that will probably never break in your lifetime unless you drive over curbs doing 50 MPH. If you are doing a major front end overhaul, such as putting in SS aluminum lower control arms, new springs and struts and maybe even brakes, then go ahead since you will have the whole thing apart already anyways.

Second, the faster tire wear talked about is a result of using the autocross racing alignment specs that come with the part. You don't have to align the car with those specs, you can stay with the normal alignment specs and maintain your tire life.

 

There are no cars that are daily driven that are purpose built for autocrossing, the stock knukles are fine. I have done four events this past season in my Cobalt SS/SC and haven't had anything brake(the last event on RA1's), the only person to see it happen was a guy in the autocross section and no one else has had it happen or seen it happen. Heck I have been autocrossing,lapping and pretty much driving the **** out of my Cavalier Z24 for the past 6 years and that was on R compounds(lots more grip) and I had never broken anything suspension related.

 

good call.. this is why i am apart of the forums so that way I don't have to waste money on stuff

 

thanks for the great info,this was something I was giving consideration to this spring,just take as if its not broke dont replace it

 

Actually, I am one of the people to see it happen at the LTU autocross school.

I found out recently that the knuckles the GM engineers were using on that particular Cobalt SS/SC were, in fact, the upgraded knuckles that this thread and the thread I made in the autocross forum (it is a sticky in the autocross forum). They were testing the design and durability of the upgraded knuckles at that time. However, I have no idea whether or not they were using the autocross specific alignment specs that they give for the upgraded knuckles. I would assume they were, since they were testing them in an autocross setting.

 

Ok so you are saying they broke the upgraded knuckles. the aligment specs don't matter, if the part broke it broke but from what you said in your sticky thread the car was airborn and the noob turned the wheel before it was back on the ground.

I still feel it is pointless to go and buy these if your are just daily driving the car and until my cars knuckles actually brake I will not buy these, I would only assume that if my 1997 Z24 can take 247,000kms of driving and not all from me(who knows what the previous driver did) and not once take any suspension damage that they would have only improved over the last couple of decades of building front drive cars that the Cobalt would be ok untouched for autocrossing and even lapping.

 

I believe that was a pre-production version that they were testing, as I stated above.

 

So then theres nothing wrong with the original knuckles then.

 

I bent both of my stock ones at autocross last year. My car would not track on the road. GM told me I needed new knuckles so I worked them over. I told them that I would pay the difference if they ordered them for me. They did I got the GMPP ones for cheap.

 

Any pictures? how did you bend your steering knuckles? where did they bend? and what other modifications did you do to your car at that time? Also most of the time if anything is gonna happen on any GM steering knuckle it will snap, like getting hit by another car or running the car into a curb or a wall. Just autocrossing should put enough stress on the car to start braking parts unless the user is doing something incredible. Recently they have been using aluminium for the knuckles on some cars and if you tighten the tie-rod end to tight it will brake the knuckle where the rod end attaches(don't ask how I know).

 

yea I got a bullitin at work about these......they also have reccommended specs. to set the cars alignment after the install of the knuckles...I'd share, but the sheet is in my tool box at the dealership lol. I was also wondering how big of a difference these would make while driving.