i think i will do a run of 5 or 6 anyway; the question is shall i also to a spherical joint pivot kit? The joints are a lot of money say 80 bucks each. the stock rubber pivot is a pita to remove it takes brute force and some heat, but for military guys used to gentle persuasion in their business that should be no problem. LS1f body will have to drill his rear twb for the new hubs anway,.. yours is an 06 right? with teves abs? got to consult mychart from Maven. Maven? hey Maven, i have not forgotton you....oh why the pivot? so the roll center change is consistent....he he oh I forgot I got my smilies back

 

The pivots are a replaceable item? I thought you guys permanently modified the axle to use them for some reason........if thats the case I might have to reconsider selling my spare axle.

 

it takes a machined metal sleeve, with circlip grooves; a joint. spacers. Insert sleeve. we weld it in position, but it could just as easily be some set screws but welding is better. Of course if you have an FE5 twb with brakes you should use it brudda....like why not?

all this stuff takes time and money sometimes its more time than money.IMHO its better to spend money on things that seriously affect the cars tunability and consistency. So spherical bushings in the suspension particularly at the flca inner trailing joint, and the twb are significant gains for relatively little money....

 

haha, no i don't think it has been done. I'll have to ask Remedy One, as he left his height settings and adjustments on when he sent them to me. It was pretty much bolt in, except for the rears which i fiddled with before putting in, and then had to readjust to correct the ride height. That's first on my list once i get back to the states.

06 is correct sir. Haha, you will be including instructions with this right? haha, i know, deduct some man points, real men don't need instructions. I just don't want to mess anything up.

we all know how much you love your smilies

 

I'm about to Suspension the hell out of my Beater Jetta. I better read this.

 

shoo vee-dub, shoo.

 

Keep us posted if you get these and how you like them.

Also what is "snap" and "trailing-throttle". Things like these are the the negitive of a sway bar i was tryin to learn about. Also i've heard thats it pretty hard, dang near impossible to oversteer a fwd car to the point where its comes around? how true is that?

Thanks for all the knowledge sharing.

 

Snap:
As you enter a corner (turn in) the car suddenly oversteers a lot (snap oversteer)

Trailing throttle:
as you approach a corner and then turn in, having already released the brake, (or just lift off the gas no braking) and the car oversteers. The "lift off the gas" part is "trailing throttle" and the car oversteering when you lift off the gas is therefore "trailing throttle oversteer"

with a TTR bar in rain conditions trailing throttle oversteer can happen so quickly it becomes "snap" oversteer. Some city streets are pretty darn slick in the rain...GM tune these (and all their cars ) to be pretty much 100% perfect for all conditions, with a consistent tendency to understeer, and as you say its hard but not impossible to make an fwd oversteer.

 

i drive pretty fast even in the rain, but common sense tells you how much you need to slow down before entering a turn to prevent from having any sort of oversteer... if your having this "snap oversteer" your going way to dayum fast... know you cars limits... and once you figure them out stay within them... and stuff like that just wont happen.

now in a track situation i could forsee this being an issue, when your pushing yourself and your car, but on the street this is about as dumb as street racing.

 

thats a good point but the thing is if the rear roll center is changed and the rear sway bar is too stiff the "snap" oversteer can happen when you turn in on a wet road at a usually accepted " normal speed" and the car can "snap" into it. thats why Maven is so insistent as I , that folks dont go crazy with big bars rear or front

 

yes...i want to say my TRD bar is 25mm but its a whole nother ball game from your guys setups...

also mr2 turbos= extreme snap oversteer...you will be just gravy then boom 360...

fun tho....

 

"Snap" over, simply means a sudden traction break in the rear caused by an abrupt change in weight transfer during deceleration either by the action of TTO (Trail-Throttle Over or most people refer to as "lift-off oversteer) or TCO (Trail-Clutch Over means engagement of the clutch while changing into low gear during deceleration+turning without proper engine rev matching). Another form of snap over in a RWD car is PO (Power Over), basically the sudden lost of rear traction due to an abrupt increase of torque in the drive wheels.

In sever cases, TCO can be due to both abrupt weight transfer AND the sudden loss of rear traction due to lock-up.

 

ah... mr2's. how true that statement seems. i've had buddies almost die from that.

 

I'm sure this has already been said, but I didn't feel like reading through 4 pages to see if it was or not, but Suspension Techniques also offers a front sway bar replacement as well.

 

i'm pretty sure it's only 22mm though man. and that's the same size as the FE3, so not really any kind of upgrade.

 

Right you are.

 

but i see what you mean about it just being another option. an ideal setup for the average guy would be SS/TC shocks struts and the revised fe5 sway bars.

 

Yeah. I'm not really in the market for "performance" or adjustable shocks though.

I just want something decent and cheap to replace my stock shocks/struts, which are beyond worn out. I might get some KYB GR-2's come springtime b/c they are cheap and will get the job done.

 

True, but be sure to shop around for some SS/SC shocks and strut too, because they also can be had cheap and will get the job done (SS/TC are noticeably more expensive for some reason)

 

could you not go with like monroe shocks and struts?

 

anyone know how these KYB GR-2's stack up against the fe5 shocks and struts in a comparison? I came across some of these on summitracing.com and was wondering what would be better.

 

GR-2s are generic replacements. While KYB makes decent stuff, GR-2s arent really a performance product.

 

do they make a non adjustable shock and strut setup that is made for a lowered ride height on our vehicles? like 2+ " drop

 

So the FE5's would be the better of the two?

 

yes. especially from the TC.