installing sportlines
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From: Braidwood, Illinois
installing sportlines
so i read the how to and it looks pretty straight forward and easy to do, so i was just wonderng those of you who have done it, was it easy or a pain in the butt?
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From: North Jersey
it's not that hard at all. the back literally takes about 5 minutes. the fronts take a little longer, but there's nothing really tricky. a few pointers about things i learned the hard way (never read the instructions, but have done a few installs and have had my suspension apart about 4 times, don't ask 
)
when doing the fronts, make sure that everythings is lined up. take a marker, or grease pen, and make a line on the suspension mount showing where it should be when you put it back together. when you change the spring, you're going to have a few loose parts. you'll have the top suspension mount, the part under that, (not sure what it's called) and the strut. and they all have to be lined up when you put it back.
another pointer is do NOT overtighten the strut mounts in the engine bay. they only get torqued to like 10-15 ft/lbs, which is nothing. think barely hand tight with a 1/4" drive. if you use a 1/2" drive for them without a torque wrench, they will probably break.
other than that, piece of cake. it will be easier if you have a friend, one part that's kinda hard to do by yourself is to feed the strut nuts back into the engine bay. it's not very heavy, but has some weight, but the thing that makes it awkward is the angle. trying to feed it up into the holes, then hold it there, then tighten a bolt on it is a real pain. i've done it by myself, so it's possible, but much easier if you can feed it up and have someone else tighten the bolts, or vice-versa.
the rest is pretty simple. good luck!
also, if you have airtools this will be MUCH easier. the top strut nut is a bitch if you don't have an impact or air tools. there's a way to ghetto rig it that will work, if you don't have air tools look up halfcent's how to.
)when doing the fronts, make sure that everythings is lined up. take a marker, or grease pen, and make a line on the suspension mount showing where it should be when you put it back together. when you change the spring, you're going to have a few loose parts. you'll have the top suspension mount, the part under that, (not sure what it's called) and the strut. and they all have to be lined up when you put it back.
another pointer is do NOT overtighten the strut mounts in the engine bay. they only get torqued to like 10-15 ft/lbs, which is nothing. think barely hand tight with a 1/4" drive. if you use a 1/2" drive for them without a torque wrench, they will probably break.
other than that, piece of cake. it will be easier if you have a friend, one part that's kinda hard to do by yourself is to feed the strut nuts back into the engine bay. it's not very heavy, but has some weight, but the thing that makes it awkward is the angle. trying to feed it up into the holes, then hold it there, then tighten a bolt on it is a real pain. i've done it by myself, so it's possible, but much easier if you can feed it up and have someone else tighten the bolts, or vice-versa.
the rest is pretty simple. good luck!
also, if you have airtools this will be MUCH easier. the top strut nut is a bitch if you don't have an impact or air tools. there's a way to ghetto rig it that will work, if you don't have air tools look up halfcent's how to.
Last edited by D4u2s0t; Mar 31, 2008 at 09:26 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Goodfellow AFB, TX
Pretty easy, another tip I learned from the hard way.....When doing the fronts, Loosen the main nut(the big one in the center of the three smaller ones). My friend and I tried to loosen it once the strut was out of the car, BIG PITA. Just get em to break loose, and your all gold from there. Also, be sure to cut the bump stops in the rear, my friend didn't cut his at first, and I cut mine right off the bat, hellafied ride difference, much better IMO.
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Joined: 04-01-07
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From: Braidwood, Illinois
it's not that hard at all. the back literally takes about 5 minutes. the fronts take a little longer, but there's nothing really tricky. a few pointers about things i learned the hard way (never read the instructions, but have done a few installs and have had my suspension apart about 4 times, don't ask )
when doing the fronts, make sure that everythings is lined up. take a marker, or grease pen, and make a line on the suspension mount showing where it should be when you put it back together. when you change the spring, you're going to have a few loose parts. you'll have the top suspension mount, the part under that, (not sure what it's called) and the strut. and they all have to be lined up when you put it back.
another pointer is do NOT overtighten the strut mounts in the engine bay. they only get torqued to like 10-15 ft/lbs, which is nothing. think barely hand tight with a 1/4" drive. if you use a 1/2" drive for them without a torque wrench, they will probably break.
other than that, piece of cake. it will be easier if you have a friend, one part that's kinda hard to do by yourself is to feed the strut nuts back into the engine bay. it's not very heavy, but has some weight, but the thing that makes it awkward is the angle. trying to feed it up into the holes, then hold it there, then tighten a bolt on it is a real pain. i've done it by myself, so it's possible, but much easier if you can feed it up and have someone else tighten the bolts, or vice-versa.
the rest is pretty simple. good luck!
also, if you have airtools this will be MUCH easier. the top strut nut is a bitch if you don't have an impact or air tools. there's a way to ghetto rig it that will work, if you don't have air tools look up halfcent's how to.
)when doing the fronts, make sure that everythings is lined up. take a marker, or grease pen, and make a line on the suspension mount showing where it should be when you put it back together. when you change the spring, you're going to have a few loose parts. you'll have the top suspension mount, the part under that, (not sure what it's called) and the strut. and they all have to be lined up when you put it back.
another pointer is do NOT overtighten the strut mounts in the engine bay. they only get torqued to like 10-15 ft/lbs, which is nothing. think barely hand tight with a 1/4" drive. if you use a 1/2" drive for them without a torque wrench, they will probably break.
other than that, piece of cake. it will be easier if you have a friend, one part that's kinda hard to do by yourself is to feed the strut nuts back into the engine bay. it's not very heavy, but has some weight, but the thing that makes it awkward is the angle. trying to feed it up into the holes, then hold it there, then tighten a bolt on it is a real pain. i've done it by myself, so it's possible, but much easier if you can feed it up and have someone else tighten the bolts, or vice-versa.
the rest is pretty simple. good luck!
also, if you have airtools this will be MUCH easier. the top strut nut is a bitch if you don't have an impact or air tools. there's a way to ghetto rig it that will work, if you don't have air tools look up halfcent's how to.
Pretty easy, another tip I learned from the hard way.....When doing the fronts, Loosen the main nut(the big one in the center of the three smaller ones). My friend and I tried to loosen it once the strut was out of the car, BIG PITA. Just get em to break loose, and your all gold from there. Also, be sure to cut the bump stops in the rear, my friend didn't cut his at first, and I cut mine right off the bat, hellafied ride difference, much better IMO.
Last edited by Altiery54; Mar 31, 2008 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Goodfellow AFB, TX
you cut the bump stops in the rear to give you a more comfortable ride...Since your lowering the car, it won't travel as far before hitting the bump stops, making it real shallow, so that everytime you go over a mild bump, you feel it pretty good...It isn't a major cut, I just cut em off right at the taper(You'll see what I'm talking about), and I only hear the thud if I take a pretty good size bump the wrong way....It's personal reference, but I reccomend it. I can take a couple of pics of what it looks like for you if you want.
Install the springs, and don't cut them, then drive a bit, you'll notice it as well. If you can deal with it, sweet, if not, just get back under there with a box cutter, and trim em off. Also, since I can't remember that far back, I believe you have to drop the rear link and essentially do the rears at the same time, no big deal, just thought I'd add that.
Install the springs, and don't cut them, then drive a bit, you'll notice it as well. If you can deal with it, sweet, if not, just get back under there with a box cutter, and trim em off. Also, since I can't remember that far back, I believe you have to drop the rear link and essentially do the rears at the same time, no big deal, just thought I'd add that.
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From: Braidwood, Illinois
you cut the bump stops in the rear to give you a more comfortable ride...Since your lowering the car, it won't travel as far before hitting the bump stops, making it real shallow, so that everytime you go over a mild bump, you feel it pretty good...It isn't a major cut, I just cut em off right at the taper(You'll see what I'm talking about), and I only hear the thud if I take a pretty good size bump the wrong way....It's personal reference, but I reccomend it. I can take a couple of pics of what it looks like for you if you want.
Install the springs, and don't cut them, then drive a bit, you'll notice it as well. If you can deal with it, sweet, if not, just get back under there with a box cutter, and trim em off. Also, since I can't remember that far back, I believe you have to drop the rear link and essentially do the rears at the same time, no big deal, just thought I'd add that.
Install the springs, and don't cut them, then drive a bit, you'll notice it as well. If you can deal with it, sweet, if not, just get back under there with a box cutter, and trim em off. Also, since I can't remember that far back, I believe you have to drop the rear link and essentially do the rears at the same time, no big deal, just thought I'd add that.
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From: North Jersey
it should say in the instructions, it's not a lot i think it was like 13mm or something like that. basically the top of the bumpstop is kinda round-ish, and there's a ridge that sticks out. that's where you're going to cut. you'll see it right away once it's off the car.
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From: Goodfellow AFB, TX
damn, I can't get my camera at a good angle while the car is down, but I will describe as best I can. You will see that the bump stop is real thick and cylindrical at the top, and tapers into a cone at the bottom. If you cut that tapered "cone" off, you'll gain the extra clearance for comfort. If you're worried about it damaging anything, it won't. I've had my sportlines for over 2 years now, they were one of my first mods, and I haven't had any issues at all.
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From: Fayett-Evil NC
twas an easy install....yes the front struts/coilover takes a minute longer so i suggest doing those first....loosen the strut bolt (break it loose on the car) but don't take it off because that is bad....then take the strut assembly out...get a good bench mount spring compressor, cut the bump stop, put it back together....you can torque the strut bolt off the car it you have the right tools...otherwise torque it on the car...then reinstall...the back is simple...just make sure you have the rear axle supported while you take the shock/struts off...other wise it will just drop and that's not good....cut the bump stops and slide the springs in...install everything...make sure everything is good and tight then ride them for a bout 2k or so to let them settle then get an alignment....
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