Need some help on this one:

have an '05 stock cobalt, upgraded: springs, struts, control arms (bushings too), sway links and sway bar. I just installed the new links and sway bar last night, everything else has been on car for at least six months and no problems up until now.

Install went alright: loosened front subframe bolts, removed front motor mount bolt, removed both rear subframe bolts (ones that go through CABs), loosened steering gear bolts (that bolt to subframe), removed rear motor mount bolts (three of them), removed sway links, removed sway bar bushings and brackets, and slid off old sway bar through the back.

I had a hell of a time sliding new bar (eibach) in but finally got it. Installed bushings and brackets correctly (that is a pain in the ass), tightened and re-inserted every bolt I had previously removed or loosened.

Everything is tight and secure, but when I took it out for a test drive I hear/feel a knocking sound from what feels like the front right side of the car. It doesn't happen on turns, just on bumps and any time the strut is engaged (pot holes, railroad tracks, etc.) I haven't taken the tire off to inspect it yet but was wondering if you guys had some insight as to what was going on with my car. There's no pull on the steering wheel, and when I park it and push on the front corners I hear the knock once or twice then it goes away.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys,

Matt

 

hmm what endlinks did you get? usually any clunky noises in the front on these cars are from the endlinks or CABs. if you got aftermarket CABs with harder bushings they will make the car more responsive but will also be noisier on bumps

 

Endlinks are just stock ones from a Carquest parts store, the brand name starts with an R but the full names escapes me at the moment. CABs and control arm (with ball joint) are stock FE5s from crateenginedepot.com

I did have this issue before when I put the new control arms on with stiffer FE5 CABs but it went away after a while or I just stopped noticing. Maybe it is the CABs and with taking out and replacing the subframe bolt it made the CABs "unsettle" and will make noises until they settle again. Just seems odd it's only the right side.

 

This has been an ongoing issue with our cars. If you google the TSB on this issue, you will find a list of why this happens. The factory struts might also be at fault for this issue.

 

Im willing to bet its the control arm bushings, Mine were toast after 30k



they even redesigned them and got rid off the cutouts as thats where they were tearing

new vs old

 

did you torque the rear cab /cradle bolts to 145 ft lbs? the spec is 75 ft lbs + 180 degrees. its very tight.

my control arm bushings are better than stock and not expensive by comparison, last forever.

 

ps, if you changed the control arm did you tighten the ball joint cross pin to 37 ft lbs, then loosen 3/4 turn then retorque to 37 ft lbs + 30 degrees? vip.

 

^^^^^^ I still have a knocking sound, I wonder if its due to not following that spec, it was near impossible to get my torque wrench in there, So I just went as tight as possible without stripping it, the driver side is fine, But the knock seems to be at the passenger.

 

i use a 15 mm (or 16mm depends on car) socket with a 6 inch 1/2 extension and a snap on digital torque wrench with a swivel head for the bj bolt and a 21 mm socket no extension for the cab/cradle bolt . Big effort required....

 

Is the sound a light popping noise? Check the wheel lug nuts first. 100 ftlbs, no less. If it's a more solid clunk sound, it's more likely something else. If you're trying to torque the big bolt through the rear of the control arm, just do it while the car is on the ground. 145 isn't that hard to get to if the car is setting solidly on the ground.

The length of your new end links, are they the same as before? Since you got new springs, I'm sure they're shorter, which means you need shorter end links as well. Drive your car onto a ramp if you can (build it from 2x6, stacked with tapered ends), and look very carefully at the swaybar. See if your new Eibach swaybar is making contact somewhere. If you want a quick test, disconnect one side of the swaybar, and zip tie the end link out of the way. Go for a drive. If it's quiet, you know the problem is associated with your swaybar.

 

I hate when you explain things in depth. It makes me rethink the things I've done because when it comes to me and torque specs...about 1 and a half grunts is the norm.

 

get a haynes or any other service manual, torque specs are all there, what Powell said was almost word for word of what the manual said.

 

Hey wangspeed had a good idea for sure. IF u have an aftermarket drop link, and IF it is FE3 length, it will contact the FE5 control arm on bump opposite side generally....

 

Guess this the clunk in my car

 

You know the old saying "Can't see the forest through the trees?" Turns out the sound was coming from a loose sway link bolt attached to the strut, on the LEFT side of the car.

yeah I'm awesome...

thanks for all the input though guys, it was greatly appreciated.

Matt

 

Im having this same problem..almost to the T of what you described except my steering doesn't feel quite right. Im checking this stuff out tomorrow!