Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

My left side lower ball joint is shot. Along with Sway bar bushings. Do I need to replace entire control arm due to the ball joint being shot or can I press a new ball joint in? What's best option. Also I know moog makes good products but are their front sway bar bushings good? Or should I just buy oem ones?

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

depends on what cobalt you have: alloy arms I would NOT replace the ball joint but some people do. If steel then no problem moog sell ball joints that can be replaced.

If its a LT /LS early Redline or 05 SC with tab and single bolt sway bar fixing then upgrade to 2 bolt, OEM parts from CED is your best bet. Good luck.

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

It's an 05 ss/sc. So this is only a one bolt then?

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

prolly.

intel

iTrader: (1)

The ball joints are riveted in and are replaceable... It is a pain in the butt to replace them lol.
I may have some pictures I can post if you would like.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

of course they are. but bolted ball joints in alloy arms make me uneasy. is what i said.

intel

iTrader: (1)

Yep, not disagreeing or anything.. just adding some input. As you said it's a personal preference, some have done it and some opt not to.

@Hobbitjones
You might be better off getting a new control arm as I do not know what tools you have access to. When I did mine I did so out of curiosity... I had to use an angle grinder, air hammer, and a drill press.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

ya the problem with control arms is this ( I have spent the bux and done the research) rock auto have kick ass pricing ( until sales go up and the price changes...up!) but they are made in Taiwan. No problem with that per se, until you get hammering on them and they bend. ooops. Stock OEM ones are far better, in fact the best, and are well priced at CED BUT are roughly another 60 dollars more than the rock auto ones.
the other issue is the control arm inserts on the taiwan ones are made in India (?!) and very poor quality.
sooooo

hate to toss good GM control arms so replacement ball joints might be the answer. Sure would like to find a giant buck rivet tool so make them perfect though ( pipe dream)

OttawaMark

iTrader: (3)

Good to know, just had the machinist pop my rivets today as he pressed in your CABs...the MOOGs are definitely thicker, not that that really matters. 10.9 bolts and nuts.

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

Well found the real problem. I had a local shop do install on a new set of control arms few years ago after a set of pressed in rear cabs pulled out. Well for whatever reason I started thinking I had the wrong arms. Well apon looking and going to that shop and them cross referencing part numbers they had installed FE1 arms on my 05 SS/SC. They are replacing these arms with new alloy arms here next week. Saves me from having to buy a new one for the ball joint issue. Now to just install the sway bar bushings...... Lol

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

darn thats a good news story if I have heard of one. Stand up shop, no doubt.

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

Yea for sure! I was furious but once they offered to right the wrong and cover all parts and labor and even the alignment after i couldn't really be too upset. Just hoping it didn't cause any damage to rest of the suspension :/

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

na. the caster is a little different and the softer control arm bushings suck, but it would not damage anything.

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

Ok good wasn't entirely sure if would add stress to other parts or throw alignment out of whack quicker or what not

LethalSS

hmmmm, so that is the reason they say to replace the whole arm? maybe the bolts can wallow out the hole in the aluminum i suppose... that would not be good.

i need to replace mine and considered just grinding the rivets off the old ones and replacing the ball joints only. perhaps I wont now, thanks!

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

I did that last weekend and went for an alignment. No issues.

emiller

Steel doesn't play nice with aluminum. Be careful about the type of bolts you use.

Slowbalt005

The hook in/one bolt sway bar bushing setup blows! Just did mine and it was the most time consuming part of all the work I've done to it. For sure upgrade to the two bolt set up, I know I wish I did. I used the moog bushings and end links and I think they are pretty good. That's just my personal opinion though. I also did my control arm, not even worth the time or trouble down the road to play with just the ball joint. Took less than 20 mins to swap out whole arm.

SSnRXP

iTrader: (2)

John, any recommendations for just replacing the rubber boot on the lower ball joint? Mine got torn during R&R for CAB's install.

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

torn boot = new ball joint

i have a set of MOOG --brand new in the box if need one

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

i actually have a boot but the stock alloy ball joint boot is different. I have done the moog deal replacement it was a pita, I am confident it will be okay but given the choice? wont do it again. lol. like the poster whoever it was said, grinder, air chisel etc all those tools are needed. Getting the rivets out is a total pain. With practice, and the right tools I am sure it can be done faster.

good thing I work for nothing lol

LNFTX

What bolts did you use???

blu3_v1p3r

iTrader: (6)

I've had a few issues with ball joints. I replaced both mine about 4 years ago with moog parts, I also had to replace the passenger side ball joint october 2012 and again in october 2013. Good thing they are lifetime warranty through o'reilly. which reminds me i still have one to return to them to get back about $54

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

10.9 grade with automotive flange nuts, fastenal. Loctite.

08baltls

iTrader: (3)

I think I may need to replace my ball joints and CAB cause I'm getting some clunking noises. I wouldn't mind using MOOG parts, but I don't want to grind off rivets and all that sh*t. Are Dorman decent replacements for just swapping out the whole control arm? I mean, I wouldn't think they are any worse than the Duralast parts that AutoZone sells, and I've used quite a few of those parts over the years.

And how much of a pain in the ass is it to swap them out?