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Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:41 AM   #1  
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Need Help with suspension

I have a 2010 Cobalt 2.2 with FE1 suspension. Ball joints are screwed. Can I use FE3 or FE5 lower control arms? is there any difference? Will they just bolt in ? thanks
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:50 AM   #2  
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You can use FE5 lower control arms and I would recommend it. The ball joint stud is a bit bigger in diameter so you have to spread your knuckle opening just a tad but it is not a big deal at all. While you're at it you may want to consider purchasing FE5 lower control arms off of Crate Engine Department that come with Powell's trailing control arm bushings already installed. Makes a significant difference in tightening up the front suspension.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:17 AM   #3  
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Fair enough. How about tie rod ends and sway bar links? they seem fine, but is it worth it or necessary to change them as well?
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:19 AM   #4  
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Does the year matter? Crate shows 2007's and also 08-10's
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:23 AM   #5  
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08-10 is the best you can get
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:26 AM   #6  
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FE1s are stamped steel while FE5 are cast aluminum. What are the advantages of FE5 over FE1 aside from weight? Thanks
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:42 AM   #7  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTB_Ryder View Post
Fair enough. How about tie rod ends and sway bar links? they seem fine, but is it worth it or necessary to change them as well?
Sway bar end links are not worth changing if they aren't worn out or if you don't swap in the FE5 sway bar first. Springs and shocks however, will make a significant difference. Again the easiest most effective route is to buy Powell YYZ springs already mounted to FE5 TC Cobalt struts available on Crate Engine Department.
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:06 AM   #8  
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So are Powell springs lowered or stock?
YYZ Spring Package
I do not want to lower my car
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Old 04-01-2018, 12:08 PM   #9  
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It's a slight lowering, I want to say 1/2" max
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Old 04-01-2018, 12:10 PM   #10  
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I believe they lower the back an inch and the front 1/2 or so. Not anything like "lowering springs" I've ran them for 5 years without issues. If you have worn out springs already you may not see a whole lot of difference. Makes the car look better and take corners a lot better. They are a progressive spring design, not like lowering springs that just bounce when you hit bumps.
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Old 04-01-2018, 12:11 PM   #11  
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Yeah Powell springs have a slight lowering nothing to worry about like other springs
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Old 04-01-2018, 12:57 PM   #12  
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What are you guys running for shocks then?
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Old 04-01-2018, 02:01 PM   #13  
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I'm running koni yellows
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Old 04-01-2018, 02:43 PM   #14  
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Quote:
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I'm running koni yellows
Same^ but fe5 shocks and stunts are just fine for everyday driving
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Old 04-15-2018, 11:35 PM   #15  
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rather than start a new thread, figured id ask here. prolly help the OP also. if someone was to replace all the worn suspension parts what ones all need replaced? front and rear assuming you could replace it all and go to the FE5 suspension. 2008+ cobalts.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:38 AM   #16  
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In general the parts that wear out are the front and rear shocks, front sway bar end links (ball joints on ends get sloppy), front trailing lower control arm bushing whether worn out or not should, at the very least, be replaced with solid rubber bushings, at best a Powell spherical bushings. I don't know how fast the springs break down but if you don't have FE5 springs already replace those as well. If you have stamped steel front control arm swap to aluminum FE5 2008+. I also don't know how fast the sway bar bushings wear out as I never have but I assume they would be something to check as well.

If you are trying to get better handling I would also consider swapping in an FE5 sway bar (if you don't have one already) and adding a stiffener bar to the rear twisting beam.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:57 AM   #17  
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Turns out I already had FE5. I was just going with what the dealer told me based on my VIN#. So I just replaced the ball joints rather than the whole arm. I have regrets now because I thing the control arm bushings are bad. with respect to the FE5 designation, are there other parts that are dif. between FE1 and FE5? I suspect my car already has the FE5 components but I want to make sure. It's paid for, so I wanna keep it as long as possible,

Suggestions, please, as I have one more issue I need to correct. When I brake, my front rotors have a slight warp. this obviously causes a little bit of pulsing in the brake pedal and a little wobble in my steering wheel. Thats no bother, I'll do the brakes eventually. Problem is, when I brake and that pulsing/steering wheel wobble occurs, there is a rattle that sounds like it's coming from my steering shaft.

I have already replaced my Lower BJ's and intermediate steering shaft. I have STAB links and outer tie rod ends on hand to replace if I want too as well.


Does anyone have experience with these symptoms?

Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2018, 12:06 PM   #18  
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FE1 and FE5 ball joint studs are slightly different diameter. Stock voided rear control arm bushings on these cars are junk IMO. FE1 and FE5 have different control arms, knuckle, sway bar, end links, struts, shocks, springs and I think even the rear twisting beam may be a bit different but I don't know that for sure.
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:49 PM   #19  
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Upgrade to Powell bushings in the control arm, add his swaybar, and as said above fe5 shocks or Koni yellows will be mint and the car will be a whole new animal suspension wise.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:21 PM   #20  
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Like 07 said- the rear control arms are garbage. If you can afford it go with Powell race shop rear control arm bushings. One of the best things I've done to the car to date. Do it once and you never have to worry again.
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