MTB_Ryder

I have a 2010 Cobalt 2.2 with FE1 suspension. Ball joints are screwed. Can I use FE3 or FE5 lower control arms? is there any difference? Will they just bolt in ? thanks

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

You can use FE5 lower control arms and I would recommend it. The ball joint stud is a bit bigger in diameter so you have to spread your knuckle opening just a tad but it is not a big deal at all. While you're at it you may want to consider purchasing FE5 lower control arms off of Crate Engine Department that come with Powell's trailing control arm bushings already installed. Makes a significant difference in tightening up the front suspension.

MTB_Ryder

Fair enough. How about tie rod ends and sway bar links? they seem fine, but is it worth it or necessary to change them as well?

MTB_Ryder

Does the year matter? Crate shows 2007's and also 08-10's

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

08-10 is the best you can get

MTB_Ryder

FE1s are stamped steel while FE5 are cast aluminum. What are the advantages of FE5 over FE1 aside from weight? Thanks

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Sway bar end links are not worth changing if they aren't worn out or if you don't swap in the FE5 sway bar first. Springs and shocks however, will make a significant difference. Again the easiest most effective route is to buy Powell YYZ springs already mounted to FE5 TC Cobalt struts available on Crate Engine Department.

05duramax

So are Powell springs lowered or stock?
YYZ Spring Package
I do not want to lower my car

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

It's a slight lowering, I want to say 1/2" max

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

I believe they lower the back an inch and the front 1/2 or so. Not anything like "lowering springs" I've ran them for 5 years without issues. If you have worn out springs already you may not see a whole lot of difference. Makes the car look better and take corners a lot better. They are a progressive spring design, not like lowering springs that just bounce when you hit bumps.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Yeah Powell springs have a slight lowering nothing to worry about like other springs

05duramax

What are you guys running for shocks then?

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

I'm running koni yellows

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Same^ but fe5 shocks and stunts are just fine for everyday driving

thejallenator

rather than start a new thread, figured id ask here. prolly help the OP also. if someone was to replace all the worn suspension parts what ones all need replaced? front and rear assuming you could replace it all and go to the FE5 suspension. 2008+ cobalts.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

In general the parts that wear out are the front and rear shocks, front sway bar end links (ball joints on ends get sloppy), front trailing lower control arm bushing whether worn out or not should, at the very least, be replaced with solid rubber bushings, at best a Powell spherical bushings. I don't know how fast the springs break down but if you don't have FE5 springs already replace those as well. If you have stamped steel front control arm swap to aluminum FE5 2008+. I also don't know how fast the sway bar bushings wear out as I never have but I assume they would be something to check as well.

If you are trying to get better handling I would also consider swapping in an FE5 sway bar (if you don't have one already) and adding a stiffener bar to the rear twisting beam.

MTB_Ryder

Turns out I already had FE5. I was just going with what the dealer told me based on my VIN#. So I just replaced the ball joints rather than the whole arm. I have regrets now because I thing the control arm bushings are bad. with respect to the FE5 designation, are there other parts that are dif. between FE1 and FE5? I suspect my car already has the FE5 components but I want to make sure. It's paid for, so I wanna keep it as long as possible,

Suggestions, please, as I have one more issue I need to correct. When I brake, my front rotors have a slight warp. this obviously causes a little bit of pulsing in the brake pedal and a little wobble in my steering wheel. Thats no bother, I'll do the brakes eventually. Problem is, when I brake and that pulsing/steering wheel wobble occurs, there is a rattle that sounds like it's coming from my steering shaft.

I have already replaced my Lower BJ's and intermediate steering shaft. I have STAB links and outer tie rod ends on hand to replace if I want too as well.


Does anyone have experience with these symptoms?

Thanks!

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

FE1 and FE5 ball joint studs are slightly different diameter. Stock voided rear control arm bushings on these cars are junk IMO. FE1 and FE5 have different control arms, knuckle, sway bar, end links, struts, shocks, springs and I think even the rear twisting beam may be a bit different but I don't know that for sure.

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

Upgrade to Powell bushings in the control arm, add his swaybar, and as said above fe5 shocks or Koni yellows will be mint and the car will be a whole new animal suspension wise.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Like 07 said- the rear control arms are garbage. If you can afford it go with Powell race shop rear control arm bushings. One of the best things I've done to the car to date. Do it once and you never have to worry again.