New BC Coilovers
Senior Member
Joined: 02-03-08
Posts: 3,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Perry Ontario
Thanks, guys. Not unlike Maven, $$$ are important and I've checked out the Hyerptech perches -- very expensive -- and they also require maintenance (at least according to what I've read). I assumed the Torringtons would require maintenance -- I plan to check often.
My Cobalt spends its winter in the Garage, it doesn't get out in the Ice and snow, or even the rain, unless I'm going to an event and have no other option. I also pull the springs fairly regularly (mostly because I'm still figuring out the best setup -- in fact I pulled everything last night and installed different springs for today's autocross -- and raised the car a bit to kill the bump-steer) -- but regardless, the struts come out regularly and I disassemble and check everything. I'm fortunate, my commuter car is an old, cheap, 42 MPG on regular, Saturn SL. I don't have to drive the Cobalt -- so I don't.
BTW, the autocross today sucked! 245/45 x 17 street tires (STX class), Hankooks, with a lot of push (handling experiment #4 -- 550s up front, 360s + a 3/4" sway in the rear) and way too much HP (GMS1) for the tires -- and it was cold, about 35. Even when it was pointed straight (this was the first run on the Hankooks and the first autoX with the GMS1), when the turbo hit, the tires spun. Yeah, I can do the throttle-control thing, and I will, but I wanted to see what it would do. I think the next time I'll go out in DSP trim -- 285/30 x 18 Hoosiers -- and see how the Stage kit works. I think I'll be able to stick the power on the ground with the Hoosiers.
My next big trip will be down to Mineral Wells, TX for the National Tour event in March.
Thanks for the advice; I can always use advice!
Scott
My Cobalt spends its winter in the Garage, it doesn't get out in the Ice and snow, or even the rain, unless I'm going to an event and have no other option. I also pull the springs fairly regularly (mostly because I'm still figuring out the best setup -- in fact I pulled everything last night and installed different springs for today's autocross -- and raised the car a bit to kill the bump-steer) -- but regardless, the struts come out regularly and I disassemble and check everything. I'm fortunate, my commuter car is an old, cheap, 42 MPG on regular, Saturn SL. I don't have to drive the Cobalt -- so I don't.
BTW, the autocross today sucked! 245/45 x 17 street tires (STX class), Hankooks, with a lot of push (handling experiment #4 -- 550s up front, 360s + a 3/4" sway in the rear) and way too much HP (GMS1) for the tires -- and it was cold, about 35. Even when it was pointed straight (this was the first run on the Hankooks and the first autoX with the GMS1), when the turbo hit, the tires spun. Yeah, I can do the throttle-control thing, and I will, but I wanted to see what it would do. I think the next time I'll go out in DSP trim -- 285/30 x 18 Hoosiers -- and see how the Stage kit works. I think I'll be able to stick the power on the ground with the Hoosiers.
My next big trip will be down to Mineral Wells, TX for the National Tour event in March.
Thanks for the advice; I can always use advice!
Scott
I guess now you know though 
Member
Joined: 08-22-08
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Yeah, I expected lots of understeer -- and I got it! But unfortunately, at the moment, my options are somewhat limited. It's a Progress bar so it's mild steel.
I could have run my 650s in the rear but I wouldn't have 'learned' anything -- I already know that I get big oversteer (maybe not so much 'big' as sudden -- in the middle of a high speed sweeper, the back end steps out without notice -- it's the unexpected part I don't like -- I can catch it, but it kills time) -- without any extra sway -- with the 550/650 combination.
I back to looking at various coilovers to pick the best that meets my needs...
Looks like Megan or BC -- it comes down to money and how they come provisioned out of the box. The BCs come 'typically' with 8K fronts and 6K rears (but you could get up to 12K and 10K. Megans come 6K/6K (Megan says you can go up by 2K -- does that mean they can't support higher than 8K spring rates???). While I plan to buy more springs, as needed, I'd like to start with something reasonable. I'd like to get front rear springs exactly the same length -- like 7" for example -- and get something like 450/500 or maybe 400/450 -- that way I could use the springs front or rear -- mix and match.
Scott
I could have run my 650s in the rear but I wouldn't have 'learned' anything -- I already know that I get big oversteer (maybe not so much 'big' as sudden -- in the middle of a high speed sweeper, the back end steps out without notice -- it's the unexpected part I don't like -- I can catch it, but it kills time) -- without any extra sway -- with the 550/650 combination.
I back to looking at various coilovers to pick the best that meets my needs...
Looks like Megan or BC -- it comes down to money and how they come provisioned out of the box. The BCs come 'typically' with 8K fronts and 6K rears (but you could get up to 12K and 10K. Megans come 6K/6K (Megan says you can go up by 2K -- does that mean they can't support higher than 8K spring rates???). While I plan to buy more springs, as needed, I'd like to start with something reasonable. I'd like to get front rear springs exactly the same length -- like 7" for example -- and get something like 450/500 or maybe 400/450 -- that way I could use the springs front or rear -- mix and match.
Scott
Senior Member
Joined: 02-03-08
Posts: 3,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Perry Ontario
Until u put a real rear bar made of proper materials into it - OTTP (or Eibach) I would suggest, you are going to struggle for balance. As Maven will tell you, its all about roll centers, shear points, and roll stiffness. I would also put money on the fact that a Pedders springs/TC strut/shock and OTTP hardcore bar would be the faster than coil overs...I call the tires you use.....howzabout that as a challenge? Oh and LESS MONEY....
Last edited by qwikredline; Jan 11, 2010 at 09:39 AM.
Why are you aiming for equal length springs front and rear? just for reduced spring inventory or some other reason? All things equal i would say longer in the rear is going to help you be able to rotate the car better than a shorter one would
Senior Member
Joined: 02-03-08
Posts: 3,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Perry Ontario
Maven this whole deal is weird what Scott is trying to do...coil overs and changing springs when he could be concentrating on his driving and the course....its auto x for gosh sake! And Scott is not on an unlimited budget. He should scrap the bs rear bar from progress and go back to sensible stuff. Pedders, tc struts/shocks and OTT rear bar and cabs....
Member
Joined: 08-22-08
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Your points are well taken. I'm trying to make my life easy -- lots of adjustability without much effort -- probably in the too hard to do category.
Maybe the best way to go is with 450s at both ends and the OTTP monster rear bar, it's cheaper than other options, and see what happens.
Thanks again for your input.
Scott
Maybe the best way to go is with 450s at both ends and the OTTP monster rear bar, it's cheaper than other options, and see what happens.
Thanks again for your input.
Scott
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