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Pedders Installation Problem

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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #1  
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Pedders Installation Problem

I bought Pedders SportsRyder Springs from OTTP 2 weeks ago.

I drive a 07 SS/SC.

heres my problem:

the rear springs, the coil on the ends are too small to fit into the perch or that nipple thingy.
I've tried both top coil and bottom. no luck.

any insight? did ottp send me the wrong set?
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:32 PM
  #2  
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No, they did not. There are tons of threads around here about that. Some people file the springs (bad idea), some people heat them a little. I coated them with spray lithium grease and twisted the seat into the spring. It's not easy but they will eventually seat. You just have to work them.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:41 PM
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yeah i've been searching for posts but no luck.
thats pretty harsh considering its $400 springs.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Yeah you need lots of lube to install pedders lol
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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I shaved the perch covers with a dremel and the forced them on with a little help from a hammer. I didn't have to shave too much off.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:49 PM
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Yea that's why I'm boy cotting Pedders, for 400 bucks you'd think they'd make
I'm a lil better, I had a set that the rear springs were 50 lbs difference between the 2 the powder coating
Was literally peeling off within a couple months of them being on the car, perches don't fit worth a damn,

Just stupid there making 400 on a set of springs ud think they'd be able to do a lil more r&d on um

But what ever

Yea that's why I'm boy cotting Pedders, for 400 bucks you'd think they'd make
I'm a lil better, I had a set that the rear springs were 50 lbs difference between the 2 the powder coating
Was literally peeling off within a couple months of them being on the car, perches don't fit worth a damn,

Just stupid there making 400 on a set of springs ud think they'd be able to do a lil more r&d on um

But what ever

Last edited by C_A_D88; Dec 6, 2011 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by C_A_D88
Yea that's why I'm boy cotting Pedders, for 400 bucks you'd think they'd make
I'm a lil better, I had a set that the rear springs were 50 lbs difference between the 2 the powder coating
Was literally peeling off within a couple months of them being on the car, perches don't fit worth a damn,

Just stupid there making 400 on a set of springs ud think they'd be able to do a lil more r&d on um

But what ever
what did u end up doing with your springs?
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #8  
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Boycotting them? you already bought a set
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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I said **** it, it was cold out. Light weight
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 03:00 AM
  #10  
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I'm in the same boat. My rear springs were horribly wound at the end for springs this expensive. I ended up having to shave and heat, after failed attempts with lithium grease. I had to whack it in with a mallet while the mount was still hot. You'll want to stuff the springs with wood, otherwise hitting a spring with a heavy mallet will result in a regrettable story.

Grease alone wasn't anywhere even remotely going to work for me. The plastic seat would have cracked.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 05:38 AM
  #11  
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I got mine in position, but the bottoms did not want to pop on, so I just lowered the car and whalla, they popped on, not that hard.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ijak
what did u end up doing with your springs?
Sold um,

But then I bought a new lnf and they came with Pedders , still trying to sell those

Will never buy them again,
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 09:06 AM
  #13  
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yall are making me DREAD my pedders install... i've had them for like 7 months and havent installed them haha
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #14  
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It's not to bad, a heat gun and some lube and your good, it just pisses me off u pay 400 bucks for springs they should fit perfect
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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I also shaved the seat a tiny bit just right around the lip. A couple speed bumps finished it up.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #16  
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Wow holy ****...haven't heard anything about this before...god dam this pisses me off.
i've had so little luck with aftermarket parts, and this time i whip out the cash for something i thought would be good.....bam installation problems..

**** THIS.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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Ha. It's not a problem. It's a small challenge. VERY SMALL. I still did the rears in under 30min even with figuring out how to go about it. Shave the perch at the edge just a bit and then soak it all in wd40. Bam. Done.
Do you need a tampon or something? Man up and do work.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #18  
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First, I want to thank a member of CobaltSS.net for making me aware of this thread. For those that don't know me my name is Pete Basica and I am President of Pedders USA. My office phone is 248.522.8021 email PGB@PeddersUSA.com I try to be as accessible as possible for our clients.

The Cobalt spring eyes are made to be as tight as they are to make certain they remain trapped when the vehicle is lifted or worst case airborne. This is required because of the rear shock extended length at full droop. There are two tips I can provide that will make rear coil installation smoother.

1. If you have a nice warm sunny day for your rear coil installation, let the OE plastic 'bake' in the sun. A more pliable plastic is easier to work with. If we don't have sun, a bucket of hot water will do. Heat guns can melt or burn the plastic so we try to avoid that or make certain great care is used with a heat gun.

2. Suspension work is sometime similar to another passion many of us share and is best when hot and wet ;-) Slippery is good. Liquid dish soap is a great temporary lubricant. When dry it is not slippery and it washes away with water. The warm plastic coated with liquid dish soap works well.

I am sorry for the frustration we have caused and will get these two installation tips posted on the website catalog and in our installation section.

Sincerely,
Peter G. Basica
Pedders USA, LLC

Last edited by JusticePete; Dec 7, 2011 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JusticePete
First, I want to thank a member of CobaltSS.net for making me aware of this thread. For those that don't know me my name is Pete Basica and I am President of Pedders USA. My office phone is 248.522.8021 email PGB@PeddersUSA.com I try to be as accessible as possible for our clients.

The Cobalt spring eyes are made to be as tight as they are to make certain they remain trapped when the vehicle is lifted or worst case airborne. This is required because of the rear shock extended length at full droop. There are two tips I can provide that will make rear coil installation smoother.

1. If you have a nice warm sunny day for your rear coil installation, let the OE plastic 'bake' in the sun. A more pliable plastic is easier to work with. If we don't have sun, a bucket of hot water will do. Heat guns can melt or burn the plastic so we try to avoid that or make certain great care is used with a heat gun.

2. Suspension work is sometime similar to another passion many of us share and is best when hot and wet ;-) Slippery is good. Liquid dish soap is a great temporary lubricant. When dry it is not slippery and it washes away with water. The warm plastic coated with liquid dish soap works well.

I am sorry for the frustration we have caused and will get these two installation tips posted on the website catalog and in our installation section.

Sincerely,
Peter G. Basica
Pedders USA, LLC
Nice to see you here. A heat gun on the plastic lower half works well. Recent stock of Pedders shows an improvement, maybe its a tooling thing. The rear springs are smaller one end than the other fractionally so choosing through measurement works well + heat gun, + newer stock for whatever reason. The " dont want it to fall out when spring is extended"etc doesnt really play the top isolator falls out of the socket in the top of the frame if it is retained by the spring, and the issue is not the top isolator, its the black lower one. FYI....
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JusticePete
Suspension work is sometime similar to another passion many of us share and is best when hot and wet ;-) Slippery is good.

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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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everyone is pissed and we demand 25% off for cobaltss.net!


^worth a shot haha.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
Nice to see you here. A heat gun on the plastic lower half works well. Recent stock of Pedders shows an improvement, maybe its a tooling thing. The rear springs are smaller one end than the other fractionally so choosing through measurement works well + heat gun, + newer stock for whatever reason. The " dont want it to fall out when spring is extended"etc doesnt really play the top isolator falls out of the socket in the top of the frame if it is retained by the spring, and the issue is not the top isolator, its the black lower one. FYI....
Noted.

Originally Posted by JL-KA


Originally Posted by breds2k
everyone is pissed and we demand 25% off for cobaltss.net!


^worth a shot haha.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JusticePete
First, I want to thank a member of CobaltSS.net for making me aware of this thread. For those that don't know me my name is Pete Basica and I am President of Pedders USA. My office phone is 248.522.8021 email PGB@PeddersUSA.com I try to be as accessible as possible for our clients.

The Cobalt spring eyes are made to be as tight as they are to make certain they remain trapped when the vehicle is lifted or worst case airborne. This is required because of the rear shock extended length at full droop. There are two tips I can provide that will make rear coil installation smoother.

1. If you have a nice warm sunny day for your rear coil installation, let the OE plastic 'bake' in the sun. A more pliable plastic is easier to work with. If we don't have sun, a bucket of hot water will do. Heat guns can melt or burn the plastic so we try to avoid that or make certain great care is used with a heat gun.

2. Suspension work is sometime similar to another passion many of us share and is best when hot and wet ;-) Slippery is good. Liquid dish soap is a great temporary lubricant. When dry it is not slippery and it washes away with water. The warm plastic coated with liquid dish soap works well.

I am sorry for the frustration we have caused and will get these two installation tips posted on the website catalog and in our installation section.

Sincerely,
Peter G. Basica
Pedders USA, LLC
wish i found that out before my friend's shop night. now i have to wait another month before i can get them installed cause i dont have tools

but thanks for the feed back! glad you check forums!
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ijak
wish i found that out before my friend's shop night. now i have to wait another month before i can get them installed cause i dont have tools

but thanks for the feed back! glad you check forums!
I would like to take credit for finding this thread, but I can't. I was pointed here by a lurker who has a Pedderised SRT8, just bought a HHR SS and is learning all he can from the forum. It is good to be here no matter how I got here
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Word of advice, if you ever plan on selling the pedders (Great springs BTW), plan on selling the plastic boot with them. Such a pita to get out
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