question about slotted/drilled roters
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From: the glove
question about slotted/drilled roters
I've got just a tick over 18k miles on my ss/sc and i'm on my 3rd or 4th set of roters and there on there way out as we speek. i dont think i'm that hard on the breaks but i guess i am some how.
my question is....once i buy a sat of the slotted and drilled roters will thosue warp out on me like the stockers????
can you even heat the slotted/drilled roters up enought to warp them???
also can ya'll post some links to the slotted/drilled roters so i can take a closer look at them
my question is....once i buy a sat of the slotted and drilled roters will thosue warp out on me like the stockers????
can you even heat the slotted/drilled roters up enought to warp them???
also can ya'll post some links to the slotted/drilled roters so i can take a closer look at them
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Joined: 11-24-04
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From: newark, DE
yes hey will eventully 
unless they are made from a different compund then the stockers
(stock is to soft of a compound, need to be more hard)
also depends on brake pads your running if the brake pads are a harder compound then the rotor and you go 140mph and pull you brakes they are gonna warp lol ive done it a few times
best bet is a big brake kit for the front
unless they are made from a different compund then the stockers (stock is to soft of a compound, need to be more hard)
also depends on brake pads your running if the brake pads are a harder compound then the rotor and you go 140mph and pull you brakes they are gonna warp lol ive done it a few times
best bet is a big brake kit for the front
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Joined: 08-13-05
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From: the glove
Originally Posted by cvenom2122
yes hey will eventully unless they are made from a different compund then the stockers
(stock is to soft of a compound, need to be more hard)
also depends on brake pads your running if the brake pads are a harder compound then the rotor and you go 140mph and pull you brakes they are gonna warp lol ive done it a few times
best bet is a big brake kit for the front
unless they are made from a different compund then the stockers (stock is to soft of a compound, need to be more hard)
also depends on brake pads your running if the brake pads are a harder compound then the rotor and you go 140mph and pull you brakes they are gonna warp lol ive done it a few times
best bet is a big brake kit for the front
i'm going to swap over to the ebc red or yellow pads if that helps with the compound question.
keep them answer comein
Senior Member
Joined: 05-20-05
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From: Brampton, Ontario
I bought a set of Power slot rotors, since your in the states TTR is your best bet for price, and I've ordered a set of EBC Green stuff. but no one can give you any real answer because there isn't anything out yet, were still waiting on EBC to be released, and Hawk has pads available too, but they tent to be pricey.
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Joined: 07-18-05
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From: Williamsville
[QUOTE=06black]i think that kit is a joke for the front you only gain like .4in....if i remember rite.
The overall diameter of the rotor itself is not what makes your car stop faster, the calipers that come with it are 18mm bigger per side on the front and the rotor is thicker, dispersing heat quicker through directional vents. If you have the money go for the brake kits...the front is $895 and the way you go through rotors is would seem that it's worth your cash.
The overall diameter of the rotor itself is not what makes your car stop faster, the calipers that come with it are 18mm bigger per side on the front and the rotor is thicker, dispersing heat quicker through directional vents. If you have the money go for the brake kits...the front is $895 and the way you go through rotors is would seem that it's worth your cash.
Senior Member
Joined: 10-08-05
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From: AZ
ExHondaMan has the cross drilled and slotted rotors and pads from Uneek. They are lasting much better than the stocker. You might want to PM him and see what their current condition is. Last time I saw them they looked perfect and that's after a few thousand mile on them.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/pictures-videos-64/new-rotors-pads-8110/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/pictures-videos-64/new-rotors-pads-8110/
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Joined: 08-31-05
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From: Los Angeles
I'll be posting up a for sale thread this weekend for the rotors. If you'd like a set now just let me know. $200 for all four rotors $100 for front and rear semi metallic brake pads, plus shipping (need to know your zip).
PS. Never hear back from you about the bulbs.
PS. Never hear back from you about the bulbs.
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Joined: 12-27-05
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From: Indianapolis
FYI - Drilled rotors generally warp easier than solid faced rotors. They cool off faster BUT they also heat up faster. It's the expansion and contraction that cause them to warp. Quality of metal has a lot to do with it too which is the stock rotors problem. I have however broken a Brembo brand drilled rotor IN HALF on the track.
The best rotors for us will be a good quality solid faced rotors. Brembo solid faced rotors have always been my choice for high performance trouble free rotors. Hopefully they will make them for us soon. Slots and holes are dumb and just reduce the pad/rotor surface area and cause trouble after many many heat cycles. Gas realease is a great theory but there should be no gases if you prepped your pads properly.
The best rotors for us will be a good quality solid faced rotors. Brembo solid faced rotors have always been my choice for high performance trouble free rotors. Hopefully they will make them for us soon. Slots and holes are dumb and just reduce the pad/rotor surface area and cause trouble after many many heat cycles. Gas realease is a great theory but there should be no gases if you prepped your pads properly.
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Joined: 08-31-05
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From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by freakaccident
FYI - Drilled rotors generally warp easier than solid faced rotors. They cool off faster BUT they also heat up faster. It's the expansion and contraction that cause them to warp.
While there are many rumors and home made theories about the benefits of different rotors, lets try to dispel them and deliver some facts. Cross drilled rotors have long been the subject of ridicule and blame. For years many uneducated people have been blaming poor old cross drilled rotors for failures that were not directly related to them.
Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many people believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.
A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.
Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger, (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.
Slotting the rotors is generally intended to pick up where cross drilled rotors leave off. They tend to have a higher thresh hold to heat there for enabling the brakes to function at much higher temperatures. By slotting the rotors you create "sweep" for the pads. At high temps cross drilling becomes non effective. Rotors can't pull air through after extreme temps. The rotor actually becomes a heat sink. As the cross drills become non effective, the slots can sweep the gas pocket out.
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Joined: 12-27-05
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From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by Uneek
I'd like to see a Cobalt or any other daily driver go so fast that they cause rotors to glow red to the point that they begin to expand and contract!!
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Joined: 08-11-05
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From: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
I have 25k km on my car and have noticed extensive wear in on my rotors. Would you guys suggest that I replace them with stock or aftermarket. If aftermarket, suggestions and pricing would be appreciated.
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Senior Member
Joined: 08-13-05
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From: the glove
Originally Posted by Uneek
I'd like to see a Cobalt or any other daily driver go so fast that they cause rotors to glow red to the point that they begin to expand and contract!!
While there are many rumors and home made theories about the benefits of different rotors, lets try to dispel them and deliver some facts. Cross drilled rotors have long been the subject of ridicule and blame. For years many uneducated people have been blaming poor old cross drilled rotors for failures that were not directly related to them.
Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many people believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.
A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.
Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger, (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.
Slotting the rotors is generally intended to pick up where cross drilled rotors leave off. They tend to have a higher thresh hold to heat there for enabling the brakes to function at much higher temperatures. By slotting the rotors you create "sweep" for the pads. At high temps cross drilling becomes non effective. Rotors can't pull air through after extreme temps. The rotor actually becomes a heat sink. As the cross drills become non effective, the slots can sweep the gas pocket out.
While there are many rumors and home made theories about the benefits of different rotors, lets try to dispel them and deliver some facts. Cross drilled rotors have long been the subject of ridicule and blame. For years many uneducated people have been blaming poor old cross drilled rotors for failures that were not directly related to them.
Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many people believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.
A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.
Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger, (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.
Slotting the rotors is generally intended to pick up where cross drilled rotors leave off. They tend to have a higher thresh hold to heat there for enabling the brakes to function at much higher temperatures. By slotting the rotors you create "sweep" for the pads. At high temps cross drilling becomes non effective. Rotors can't pull air through after extreme temps. The rotor actually becomes a heat sink. As the cross drills become non effective, the slots can sweep the gas pocket out.
hot digity DAM!!!!
well uneek you come thro agen!
when you post up the roters for sale hit my with a PM i need to replace all of them and the pads....so yea whole set.
p.s. the bulbs were takein care of by the shop that was fixing the car...dont know who or wear they got tem from but they work. they take a lil onger to heat up then the ones that came with the kit but they work like a champ!!!
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Joined: 12-27-05
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From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by ShaunK
I have 25k km on my car and have noticed extensive wear in on my rotors. Would you guys suggest that I replace them with stock or aftermarket. If aftermarket, suggestions and pricing would be appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: 04-02-06
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From: Harker Heights, TX
One thing about EBC pads, I would suggest you go with the Green Stuff over Red Stuff pads, unless you are really giving it to your brakes again and again rapid fire (like rally or track) where they build up alot of heat. The Green Stuff pads have a stronger cold bite and grip stronger than the Red Stuff pads at low temps, staying about even in mid range, but dropping back once you start getting over 600 degrees.
Now, for your daily driver, if your getting over 600 degrees on your brakes then I sure hope you don't live near me.
Now for the advantages of Red Stuff pads. They grip stronger at the higher temp range, have slightly less brake fade (meaning "virtually none" compared to "you might notice it if you keep stomping the brakes" for Green Stuff) and are a harder material with a slightly longer lifetime.
Both the Green Stuff and Red Stuff produce less dust then most other high performance pad types.
Oh yea, and there is Yellow and Blue stuff too, but you can't use those in a street car legally.
Now, for your daily driver, if your getting over 600 degrees on your brakes then I sure hope you don't live near me.
Now for the advantages of Red Stuff pads. They grip stronger at the higher temp range, have slightly less brake fade (meaning "virtually none" compared to "you might notice it if you keep stomping the brakes" for Green Stuff) and are a harder material with a slightly longer lifetime.
Both the Green Stuff and Red Stuff produce less dust then most other high performance pad types.
Oh yea, and there is Yellow and Blue stuff too, but you can't use those in a street car legally.
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Joined: 12-27-05
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From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by InfinityzeN
One thing about EBC pads, I would suggest you go with the Green Stuff over Red Stuff pads, unless you are really giving it to your brakes again and again rapid fire (like rally or track) where they build up alot of heat. The Green Stuff pads have a stronger cold bite and grip stronger than the Red Stuff pads at low temps, staying about even in mid range, but dropping back once you start getting over 600 degrees.
Now, for your daily driver, if your getting over 600 degrees on your brakes then I sure hope you don't live near me.
Now for the advantages of Red Stuff pads. They grip stronger at the higher temp range, have slightly less brake fade (meaning "virtually none" compared to "you might notice it if you keep stomping the brakes" for Green Stuff) and are a harder material with a slightly longer lifetime.
Both the Green Stuff and Red Stuff produce less dust then most other high performance pad types.
Oh yea, and there is Yellow and Blue stuff too, but you can't use those in a street car legally.
Now, for your daily driver, if your getting over 600 degrees on your brakes then I sure hope you don't live near me.
Now for the advantages of Red Stuff pads. They grip stronger at the higher temp range, have slightly less brake fade (meaning "virtually none" compared to "you might notice it if you keep stomping the brakes" for Green Stuff) and are a harder material with a slightly longer lifetime.
Both the Green Stuff and Red Stuff produce less dust then most other high performance pad types.
Oh yea, and there is Yellow and Blue stuff too, but you can't use those in a street car legally.
I personally don't like EBC pads at all. Since they are our only option that's the way to go. I prefer Hawk HPs or Axxis Ultimates. Axxis Ultimates are the best pads I have ever used. SUPER dirty but they work incredibly well. I hope they make them for us soon.
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Joined: 05-20-05
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From: Brampton, Ontario
Hawk has pads available now.
but the only thing I don't like about the Hawks, is that there noisy as hell, that's why I'm going to try the EBC Greens stuff. hopefully I like them more.
but the only thing I don't like about the Hawks, is that there noisy as hell, that's why I'm going to try the EBC Greens stuff. hopefully I like them more.
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Joined: 12-27-05
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From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by player_1
Hawk has pads available now.
but the only thing I don't like about the Hawks, is that there noisy as hell, that's why I'm going to try the EBC Greens stuff. hopefully I like them more.
but the only thing I don't like about the Hawks, is that there noisy as hell, that's why I'm going to try the EBC Greens stuff. hopefully I like them more.
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