RooTBeeR

iTrader: (4)

indeed, i even dinged it on road kill before, made quite a sound ...didnt think the carcass was really that high, meh

m33pm33p

oversteer in a fwd car.. too funny. Are you guys e braking into turns?

noorj

iTrader: (17)

Lift-off oversteer is very common in a modified suspension, fwd car.

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

This car hardly rotates on lift. Very newb friendly, even with a bigger rear bar.

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

It does in the rain when you stab the brakes. That does the trick

Maven

iTrader: (1)

A worn out car( Im sure youll agree healthy rear dampers are key to controlling the rear of this car, especially with a bar) and a new driver will very quickly go from understeer to oversteer in a heavily bar'd car imo. As a matter of fact abrupt "newb" like driving inputs are the easiest way to provoke these cars to oversteer I feel. An experienced or smooth driver will almost never get the car to lift or snap oversteer on the street, or in autox, but the key is smooth....which most newbs arent. I think what makes its seemingly newb friendly is that those limits are rather high for a beam axle car, and almost noone drives these cars at the limit on the street. But over (or improperly)drive the car and they spin in fantastic fashion You are right though that in general trailing throttle oversteer isnt an issue

Maven

iTrader: (1)

"stabbing" or abrupt inputs at any control at anytime will get you undesired results

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah, steady state right turn, pouring rain, XXX bar. Felt like checking the snap and it was instant. Just as easy to catch too. Good chassis

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

this and if your getting snap oversteer you need some more driving with an instructor and time on the track to learn how this car controls itself.

couldnt of said that any better.

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

I also think the definition of "snap" oversteer tends to differ from driver to driver. I've driven some truly scary setups that will snap oversteer. This isn't one of them. The Cobalt tends to give gobs and gobs of warning when it starts to rotate. Lots of time for correction, and it just doesn't do anything too evil.

The only thing I disliked about it was when I had stock shocks + big rear bar. That makes the car unstable in quick transitions, but I fixed that as soon as I could with some Konis

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

alot of the members here are too cheap to get a full set of konis, or too scared to hack apart the fronts. the result though is so worth it in the end. i love my konis. one of the OGs on them

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

Koni club powers activate! Yaaa

RooTBeeR

iTrader: (4)

pfffttttt....


<almost 65,000 mile stock fe5 setup still you can tell because the endlinks clunk a lot haha and i think my front left strut has been blown for a while actually i remember seeing oil all over it i think even before i left for NY lol

09sscalicobalt

iTrader: (1)

haha i got the rears but havent bought the fronts yet cuase im scurred lol

RooTBeeR

iTrader: (4)

My Hardcore Bar from about 4.5 months ago.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what I was talking about, and stock shocks with anything more than about 30k on them just exacerbate the problem. Quick transitions whether desired or not are the most common type of motion that a newb driven car will see, most less experienced drivers tend to just completely saw at the wheel, you often see over aggressive motions at the wheel which gets you abrupt transitions, no time for the car to settle in between motions.

This is in my experience usually due to the fact that they like the feeling of "G's" and they(incorrectly) equate the quick motions to speed in turns. That and not looking far enough ahead and actively driving the car as they come to a turn/cone/etc. Keeping your eyes down and close to the car you get caught reacting to "unexpected" required changes of direction, having to turn the car an unnecessary amount since your now behind and the car is misplaced, it all just stacks up. Slow down to go fast. Its why I firmly believe most of the best drivers always started in slow cars.

FasterIsBetter

I just wanted to say that with my OTTP Street Sway bar and Pedders Coilovers my car doesn't oversteer or understeer, but rather goes into a controllable slide without the use of the e-brake. Its probably the most controllable set up when it comes to a DD that you would like to track or take on a road course a few times a year.

09sscalicobalt

iTrader: (1)

pedders springs + john powell hardcore bar + koni rear shocks = best dd weekend track suspension setup...

ottp bar is **** and pedders coilovers arent worth the money but why would u want your fwd car to slide using an e brake lol thats just retarded

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

I think Wang said the Pedders coilovers had linear rate shocks, iirc he wasn't too impressed

FasterIsBetter

According to him Konis is the only way to go but IIRC he hadn't had first hand experience with the pedders coilovers, just research, just like I haven't had 1st hand experience with the Konis. But I have noticed lowering springs do not have the same ride characteristics as coilovers. Maybe we should both meet halfway and drive each others cars on a road course or a time attack.....then just compliment each other about the cars afterwards....

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

Let me find my adjustment knob first

FasterIsBetter

I said I don't use the e brake to slide, maybe I should have put it in bold. The car just slides controllably when going into the turn quick. The only limiting factor I have seen is the tires used....

I didn't choose this set up, RossGo did and its a great setup. I bought the car from him and I have proven it over many times and I guess I'll have to get a GoPro just to "Show Off" like people have to do to get backing on their opinions. I said I liked it because there is no understeer or oversteer and the car always goes into a controllable slide to the outside of the turn. I also said I thought it was best for DDing because for one, I'd like to see you raise your car in the winter with coils(oh wait, my bad, you're in so cal so you wouldn't know) and another thing is ride quality, almost all vehicles lowered on coils ride rough. I rode in a car which had SSC springs and was disappointed with what was supposed to be as close to stock as possible when it came to ride quality. These do not ride rough (assuming you don't have stiff sidewall tires).

So yea, your set up is great for an all out AutoX car but since you don't like to read, I'll say it again in maybe more understandable terms....its too aggressive for a DDer and someone who AutoX's maybe 3 times at most a year....Sorry for sounding like a dick but you had to be the *******.

FasterIsBetter

I was talking about wang as he lives right below me, but OK! Lol

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

I've owned my fair share of good suspension setups, and well handling cars. I even went through a phase where I thought the Japanese coilover setups were good. Then, after wheel to wheel racing both setups, I realized that they suck. A lot. Now I also understand how to read the graphs and get a basic understanding of how the shock will perform prior to having them on a car.

So I asked Pedders about their coilover setup, and they gave me enough info so that I will never buy them. KW v2, or Konis. Everything else is pretty much bling, or no better than stock.

Unfortunately, I can't make the Summit Point dates for Trackdaze this year, well I could, but I may be divorced if I do. But if you like, you can come down and ride around @ VIR later this year. Better yet, you are welcome to participate. I think most people are shocked when they find out just how fast a car really can go around a turn, and how much in-control sliding can be done. It is phenomenal and eye opening.

FasterIsBetter

Alright, I'm down. I need to get another front end alignment/figure out why my camber is off (I'm guessing CABs where I'm lowered) but Im all for it.