S/C --> T/C Calipers
S/C --> T/C Calipers
Hey, so here is my idea..... I recieved a $250.00 gift certificate for the chevy dealership as a present from my work. I was thinking that since there isn't really much i need from there or dont have that I would buy the T/C calipers and possibly disks to swap them out with the one i have on the 07 S/C balt. Will they fit and let me know what you think?
Not really crazy, that's about what can be expected. $250 doesn't buy crap from a dealer. IMO upgrading the brakes wouldn't be worth it even if you have solid performance mods, and as mentioned you'd need new wheels.
To put on the brembos youll need the Calipers, a pad kit, a pin kit, mounting bolts, rotors, and wheels that fit.
How much did you honestly think they would be???? An even remotely comparable Brembo aftermarket caliper is gonna be every bit of $850, but realistically more like $1200. You can get the calipers for probably like $450-500 online which is an absolute steal for what they are. The closest youre gonna get other wise is an Alcon H-types, and these are gonna run $550-600 piece plus either machining to make it a direct mount like the brembos or a custom bracket to use a radial mount. Even if you go Wilwood youre looking at $1300 absolute minimum to get a similar setup with DynaPro or Forged Superlite 4 piston calipers, but now youve lost the lognevity of the OEM Brembo.
At $800-1000 the Brembos are absolutely the best bang for the buck when it comes to larger brakes. As always you gotta pay to play.
$250 will buy you rotors
Sell your $250 gift certificate to somebody for $175-200 and pickup some braided stainless brake hoses, fresh fluid and Hawk HPS, youll be happy.
How much did you honestly think they would be???? An even remotely comparable Brembo aftermarket caliper is gonna be every bit of $850, but realistically more like $1200. You can get the calipers for probably like $450-500 online which is an absolute steal for what they are. The closest youre gonna get other wise is an Alcon H-types, and these are gonna run $550-600 piece plus either machining to make it a direct mount like the brembos or a custom bracket to use a radial mount. Even if you go Wilwood youre looking at $1300 absolute minimum to get a similar setup with DynaPro or Forged Superlite 4 piston calipers, but now youve lost the lognevity of the OEM Brembo.
At $800-1000 the Brembos are absolutely the best bang for the buck when it comes to larger brakes. As always you gotta pay to play.
$250 will buy you rotors
Sell your $250 gift certificate to somebody for $175-200 and pickup some braided stainless brake hoses, fresh fluid and Hawk HPS, youll be happy.
Last edited by Maven; Dec 1, 2008 at 07:26 PM.
To put on the brembos youll need the Calipers, a pad kit, a pin kit, mounting bolts, rotors, and wheels that fit.
How much did you honestly think they would be???? An even remotely comparable Brembo aftermarket caliper is gonna be every bit of $850, but realistically more like $1200. You can get the calipers for probably like $450-500 online which is an absolute steal for what they are. The closest youre gonna get other wise is an Alcon H-types, and these are gonna run $550-600 piece plus either machining to make it a direct mount like the brembos or a custom bracket to use a radial mount. Even if you go Wilwood youre looking at $1300 absolute minimum to get a similar setup with DynaPro or Forged Superlite 4 piston calipers, but now youve lost the lognevity of the OEM Brembo.
At $800-1000 the Brembos are absolutely the best bang for the buck when it comes to larger brakes. As always you gotta pay to play.
$250 will buy you rotors
Sell your $250 gift certificate to somebody for $175-200 and pickup some braided stainless brake hoses, fresh fluid and Hawk HPS, youll be happy.
How much did you honestly think they would be???? An even remotely comparable Brembo aftermarket caliper is gonna be every bit of $850, but realistically more like $1200. You can get the calipers for probably like $450-500 online which is an absolute steal for what they are. The closest youre gonna get other wise is an Alcon H-types, and these are gonna run $550-600 piece plus either machining to make it a direct mount like the brembos or a custom bracket to use a radial mount. Even if you go Wilwood youre looking at $1300 absolute minimum to get a similar setup with DynaPro or Forged Superlite 4 piston calipers, but now youve lost the lognevity of the OEM Brembo.
At $800-1000 the Brembos are absolutely the best bang for the buck when it comes to larger brakes. As always you gotta pay to play.
$250 will buy you rotors
Sell your $250 gift certificate to somebody for $175-200 and pickup some braided stainless brake hoses, fresh fluid and Hawk HPS, youll be happy.
use it to buy the factory cross drilled rotors for the 05-07 SS. I am sure someone know what I am talking about and has a part number. But like someone said above $300 isn't **** at a dealer. Do you have to use it at a certain dealer or any dealer? If it is any dealer you can use CED or GMPartsDirect.com and save some cash and get more for your gift.
Nope.
Drilled rotors=less surface area.
Which equals lots of negative things.
Rotors are drilled for ONE reason only...mass reduction
Think about it...they are only drilled when you want things to be lighter(bike, huge wheeled cars etc)
Hawk HPS pads, Stainless steel brake lines and raybestos blanks or brembo blanks will yield the most consistent pedal and shortest stopping distance, that is if your tires are up to par gripwise
Drilled rotors=less surface area.
Which equals lots of negative things.
Rotors are drilled for ONE reason only...mass reduction
Think about it...they are only drilled when you want things to be lighter(bike, huge wheeled cars etc)
Hawk HPS pads, Stainless steel brake lines and raybestos blanks or brembo blanks will yield the most consistent pedal and shortest stopping distance, that is if your tires are up to par gripwise
now i havent driven a tc, but does anyone actualy need better stopping power than the s/c brakes??? i drive a lot of different cars with my job and honestly, i think the ss/sc has some of the better brakes out there. i still have stock pads and rotors on mine, but they feel great and ive never actualy had the thought cross my mind of needing better brakes. i can only imagine what some good rotors and hawk pads would do for it.
unless your hardcore racer (wich money for good brakes is no object) i honestly cant see needing to do a brake upgrade other than pads/rotors/lines.
unless your hardcore racer (wich money for good brakes is no object) i honestly cant see needing to do a brake upgrade other than pads/rotors/lines.
now i havent driven a tc, but does anyone actualy need better stopping power than the s/c brakes??? i drive a lot of different cars with my job and honestly, i think the ss/sc has some of the better brakes out there. i still have stock pads and rotors on mine, but they feel great and ive never actualy had the thought cross my mind of needing better brakes. i can only imagine what some good rotors and hawk pads would do for it.
unless your hardcore racer (wich money for good brakes is no object) i honestly cant see needing to do a brake upgrade other than pads/rotors/lines.
unless your hardcore racer (wich money for good brakes is no object) i honestly cant see needing to do a brake upgrade other than pads/rotors/lines.
Nope.
Drilled rotors=less surface area.
Which equals lots of negative things.
Rotors are drilled for ONE reason only...mass reduction
Think about it...they are only drilled when you want things to be lighter(bike, huge wheeled cars etc)
Hawk HPS pads, Stainless steel brake lines and raybestos blanks or brembo blanks will yield the most consistent pedal and shortest stopping distance, that is if your tires are up to par gripwise
Drilled rotors=less surface area.
Which equals lots of negative things.
Rotors are drilled for ONE reason only...mass reduction
Think about it...they are only drilled when you want things to be lighter(bike, huge wheeled cars etc)
Hawk HPS pads, Stainless steel brake lines and raybestos blanks or brembo blanks will yield the most consistent pedal and shortest stopping distance, that is if your tires are up to par gripwise
Last edited by RBC; Dec 2, 2008 at 02:01 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Drilled 11 inch rotors are pointless.
The amount of weight you are saving on a rotor that size is minimal.
Now when you start talking about 13+ you actually save some weight, but lose pad life, braking stability, rotor strength, 'bite' etc.
The amount of weight you are saving on a rotor that size is minimal.
Now when you start talking about 13+ you actually save some weight, but lose pad life, braking stability, rotor strength, 'bite' etc.
A cross drilled rotor yes in some way reduces weight as anything you take material out of, but the main purpose is to allow the gas to escape and not interfere with the surface area and allow more gas out and more air through and allow more cooling. And yes if you buy cheap rotors they do tend to "crack" but the "cracking" is avoided with by purchasing most top quality rotors.
I know they are drilled for off gassing as well.
Slotted do the same thing, but better, with less surface area taken away.
The big big big reason rotors are drilled is to save weight.
Slotted do the same thing, but better, with less surface area taken away.
The big big big reason rotors are drilled is to save weight.


