Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

slotted and drilled

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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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slotted and drilled

yep. slotted and drilled brakes from racecraft. and ebc redstuff pads. she stops.





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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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looks good! stock size? how much $$??
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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reg size. from racecraft on ebay they are like $237 for all 4. people swear by these rotors that they are good. we'll see
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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Lookin good
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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Look nice did you do them?
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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Did the pads come with the rotors?
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:30 PM
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just got done at like 7 and then went and bedded them in..... i hope. just alot of 60-20 hard braking. hope thats good enough

Originally Posted by Micone
Did the pads come with the rotors?
they came with pads. just regular metallic pads. i put ebc redstuff on them

Last edited by Dead Zen; Apr 9, 2008 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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My EBC Green stuff pads came with a rearview mirror hanger that reminds you no hard braking for the first 500 miles...
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:35 PM
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pretty sure with ceramic (redstuff) you have to bed them in
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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Oh... Aren't the red stuff for Track Performance? I can't remember.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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indeed they are. they work for street, but more track oriented
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 02:10 AM
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Looks Nice
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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very nice, i am not really a drilled fan, more of a slots man myself. but looks great.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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Zen,

how long did they take to install? I am doing mine today and only have like a 2 hour window at most. you remember what size the bolts on the back of the calipers were?
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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Looks Nice Dead Zen!!!!
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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should be either a 13 or 15mm there are 2 of them...front pistons push in rear screw in
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by redlineblueline
should be either a 13 or 15mm there are 2 of them...front pistons push in rear screw in
thanks redline.... i am not replacing my pads, just the rotors. pads are going to be replaced for free tomorrow, but i didnt want to pay to have rotors installed.

I think the longest time is going to be spent replacing a wheel stud.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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you'll still probably need to push the pistons back in
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by OrngBalt
Zen,

how long did they take to install? I am doing mine today and only have like a 2 hour window at most. you remember what size the bolts on the back of the calipers were?
ok. fronts to take off the caliper are 14mm. to take off the caliper bracket are 15mm. the back are 14mm for the caliper and 18mm for the bracket.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dead Zen
ok. fronts to take off the caliper are 14mm. to take off the caliper bracket are 15mm. the back are 14mm for the caliper and 18mm for the bracket.
excellent... thanks zen
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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ok i have a question for everyone with drilled an slotted brake i just installed mine about 2weeks ago only git round to installing the front 2 on hawk pads but now everytime i go over 60mph n tap on the brakes i get a nasty wheel shake like i have a bent rim anyone else with this prob or ne idea what it might be?

bump

Last edited by HidKidSS; Apr 10, 2008 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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warped rotor!
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by HidKidSS
ok i have a question for everyone with drilled an slotted brake i just installed mine about 2weeks ago only git round to installing the front 2 on hawk pads but now everytime i go over 60mph n tap on the brakes i get a nasty wheel shake like i have a bent rim anyone else with this prob or ne idea what it might be?

bump
I have troubles with this too after hard braking... the $260 package I got off ebay wasn't the greatest but they sure as hell stop.... and sound cool doing it. The cross drills make my brakes sound like crickets when I get on them.

Just drive around for awhile trying not to brake too hard for any reason. Even on the highway, apply pressure smoothly and after a bit of driving like that, they should get better. If they are REAL bad... then replacement is an order.

Given the name of this thread... it might be a good thread to compare different cross drilled and slotted rotors. Has anyone purchased a set that kick @ss rotors that don't warp after heavy 80+mph braking? I know the stock rotors seemed to brake incredibly well with little to no warping at all.

Just curious.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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What size tools did you use to remove the calipers? Ive used 19 mm for the lug bolts. not sure what tool to use for the caliper? torx 48?
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Element-X
I have troubles with this too after hard braking... the $260 package I got off ebay wasn't the greatest but they sure as hell stop.... and sound cool doing it. The cross drills make my brakes sound like crickets when I get on them.

Just drive around for awhile trying not to brake too hard for any reason. Even on the highway, apply pressure smoothly and after a bit of driving like that, they should get better. If they are REAL bad... then replacement is an order.

Given the name of this thread... it might be a good thread to compare different cross drilled and slotted rotors. Has anyone purchased a set that kick @ss rotors that don't warp after heavy 80+mph braking? I know the stock rotors seemed to brake incredibly well with little to no warping at all.

Just curious.
My EBC Rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads are gauranteed to give anyone whiplash!
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