Coming soon to a driveway near you....the Hardcore Big Brake upgrade.

311mm dimpled, directional, curved vane 2 piece floating rotor, caliper relocation bracket, and required hardware are included. This kit is exactly as used on the Time Attack and Koni Challenge racecars.

This is a direct bolt on to SS/SC, SS/2.4, and IRLs, you continue to use your stock calipers, hoses and pads of your choosing. No brake bleeding is required to install. 5 lug LTs will need to upgrade to the SS caliper. No 4 lug option is available(....yet.....)

 

that "yet" part better turn into a "coming soon" or ill be real disappointed

 

I wanna go fast before I wanna stop

I will be keeping an eye on these though

 

holy cow look at the size of that frisbee

 

how streetable will these be maven?

 

yeah that's the solution. throw a bigger rotor on (most likely weighing more) without having a bigger caliper or dual piston plus caliper. your using the same surface area pads etc. This is a big was of time and money. The only thing it's going to do is possibly increase heat dissapation but that's all if anything. Don't waste your time guys.

 

heat dissipation is the ONLY purpose of a big brake kit. If heat dissipation wasnt the enemy in braking, we'd all still be using drums...
cmon dude...

 

dont waste your time? then why did the time attack team see fit to put these on the car? for ***** and giggles? these will be my next braking set-up. got to love all the time attack part coming out from OTTP!

 

seriously bro? the ONLY purpose? your right it has nothing to do with surface area to grip and actually stop the car....riggghhhhttt.

i have a feeling they actually upgraded the calipers.

 

you need to think for a second. If you slam the brakes, the rotor completely stops spinning, and the wheels lock, right? Right!

Clamping force is NOT the limiting factor in braking, traction of the tires is. And the brake pedal begins to feel squishy after the rotor has heat soaked, so heat is the limiting factor in repeated stopping.

A larger caliper would be nice, to increase the surface area of pad to rotor contact when brake fading does occur, but if the rotor is big enough to eliminate brake fading, then there is zero point in having a larger caliper. Basically, a larger caliper is just a bandaid for when brake fading does occur

The caliper would have to be a great deal bigger to really make any kind of difference, and they usually arent in these brake kits. Theyre usually only a little bigger than stock. As long as the caliper is contacting the entire rotor surface at some point to ensure even wear of the rotor, then thats all that matters.

And uhhh...as per the OP, this is the EXACT setup of the time attack cobalt...not just the same rotor

 

no sir, the koni challenge cars used upgraded rotors and Pagid RS-14 brake pads up front and all factory stuff in the rear

 

i'd like to see some actual results and not the word from someone who thinks this is the absolute truth. and yeah heat soak is a problem but i would bet that gripping force would end up stopping your car alot faster and quicker than a bigger rotor lol. i'd say this is an autox preference. i still don't think that just increasing the rotor itself will have such a tremendous affect on heat dissapation at all.

and uhhh like it reads it includes the rotor and caliber mounting bracket/hardware. and it is just the supposed same rotor and bracket. big deal.

also time attack cobalt brakes:

Brakes: 111.6 / 296 x 1.02 / 26; vented discs front 0.6 / 270 x .55 / 14; solid discs

 

For what it is worth, these 'kits' are being down in conjuction with the company who built the Time Attack Cobalt.

 

So does that mean that this rotor swap will give better braking than the SS/TC Brembo set-up?

 

If your into AutoX I'd say go for it, but when it comes down to raw stopping power for the guys putting down big power, you need a big brake kit(2 or 4 piston).

 

well i'll go along with whatever Rod says lol

i hardly doubt it. i'd put money on it. get them together and test it out.

like i said.

 

dude if you need to brake harder than the time attack/koni challenge cobalts, i would never want to ride in a car with you.

 

all props to OTTP and good luck to anyone with this kit. just think there are much better options. and im out lol

 

The time attack cobalt doesn't need to drive on the roads and stop in case someone runs out in front of them. The time attack cobalt did something like 280 whp off nitrous. There are turbo cars doing 400 plus.

 

oi. If you need to brake harder, push the pedal harder!
Tires are ALWAYS the limiting component in braking unless you have performed several (10+) very hard stops repeatedly in a very short period of time, in which case heat becomes the issue. Caliper size will not change your stopping distance!

Most magazines/companies, when making estimates, can determine a vehicles 60-0 distance by tire size, coef. of friction, weight of the car, ad weight distribution. Caliper size, nor brake fluid, nor rubber vs braided steel lines, nor rotor size are EVER a factor UNLESS the rotors have become too hot to allow you to push the brake pedal down enough to clamp down on the rotor. Therefore, again, eliminating heat buildup is the best way to ensure consistent braking, and a larger caliper is just a bandaid for brake setups that CANT keep the heat at bay

This post isnt just directed at you or impulse, but there is a VERY LARGE percentage of the world who thinks larger rotors or pads or calipers etc will shorten your 60-0 distance, when none of these will.

 

time attack made 400 on nitrous. 350-360 on stock cams with a high helix m62. and the time attack cars doesnt need to brake hard with cars in front of them? :facepalm:

 

hunter...just wondering. do you actually have any documented proof of how you think that bigger calipers and pads will not help 60-0 times because i would love to see that.

 

its physics....

Here's a better question: Do you have even a slight guess as to how they WOULD shorten your 60-0? Since the stock caliper has plenty enough surface area to lock the tires, that would mean that the tires would be the limiting factor, wouldnt it?

Prove me wrong

 

i would think it takes alot more strength to slow the rotation and momentum of the car/ rotor than to lock it up. like you said, after locking up the rotor the tire is the only stopping point of the car. but what you really want is a combination of the two. the coefficient of friction of the tires with the road and weight on them and also the friction between the brake pads and the rotor, hence both dissapating the energy/ momentum and stopping the car. Another reason for having antilock brakes.

there you go

to brake all the bullshit down....in the end i highly believe
-large calipers with more pistons will have more of an affect and better braking that just increasing the size of the rotor. Then again this could all be preference as to if you are an autoxer or a daily street driver who needs that stopping power security for the ounce in a while hard braking. I think actual proof would be in order like any experiment with a given hypothesis etc.

 

what you said would prove why you dont want to just lock the tires, and i completely agree, however, clamping force is not an issue though. lets say if you push the brake 90% in with a stock caliper/rotor, then the tires lock. If you push more than that, then the amount of gripping force stopping the rotor becomes greater than the amount of gripping force from the tires that are trying to keep the rotors spinning. Lets say you dissipate X joules of energy/sec in the form of heat, of course.
You want to push the brake as hard as possible WITHOUT the tires locking, like you said, so you push the brake in 89%.

Now, lets do the same thing with a larger rotor and caliper. Now, when you push the brake in 80%, the tires lock, instead of the 90% you had to push before. So here, you would push the brake pedal in 79% of the way, so the amount of gripping force trying to stop the rotors doesn't exceed the amount of gripping force from your tires making them keep spinning, just like the previous example.

Now, I hope you agree that these two examples are pretty much what a good driver (or a car's ABS system) attempt to do. If you look though, since the amount of force between the tires and the pavement has not changed between these two examples, then the amount of joules/sec of energy that the brakes can remove from the car without locking the tires has also not changed. Adding larger rotors and calipers did absolutely nothing to improve your 60-0 time.


I might as well make this a full lesson for everyone else reading this:
Now, the reason we would want larger rotors, is because as the calipers clamp down on the rotors, the rotors become extremely hot. Think about it, you're converting all the energy it took to move a 3,000lb object 60 miles per hour directly into heat within just a couple of seconds. As the rotors heat up, the brake pads on the calipers have a harder time gripping the rotor, so while you may only need to push the brake in 80% the first stop, you may need to push it in 82% the second time, then 85%, then 90%, etc., until the stock system is no longer able to create enough friction between the calipers and the rotors to lock the tires. This number will go up exponentially, not linearly btw.

A larger rotor would dissipate that heat, leaving you the ability to continue braking to your tires limits for long periods of time.

The reason you would have a larger caliper, however, is this:
If you use a larger caliper on the same car, you would agree that you would not need to push the brake pedal as hard to get the same force exerted by the caliper onto the rotor, correct? So, if you start the above scenario, but you now use 60% maximum braking effort as your starting point, instead of 80% as before, then you will have more room to work with.

The reason why I am saying a larger rotor is more important than a larger caliper is because like i said, this brake fading is an exponential figure, so using a caliper that's 2x the size of a stock caliper will NOT yield 2x as many stops before heat soaking, whereas if your rotor is 2x bigger than stock, it is not only harder to heat up because there is more material to have to heat, but there is more surface area as well, so the rate of cooling will increase also. With a larger rotor, it is possible to avoid brake fading all together, since the rate of cooling might match the rate of heating/braking in a larger than stock rotor, whereas a larger caliper will never prevent heat soak, it will merely band aid the problem by allowing a couple additional stops before brake fade occurs.

I hope this helped explain, because it sure as hell took me a while to type...lol

BTW, i dont autoX, just FYI