Spring question
Spring question
Before anyone busts my *****, I have searched thoroughly through the forums and need to know a few simple questions.
Today I am hopefully installing my Sportlines on my 2.2.
My question to you guys is, first off, how long am I looking at time wise for a spring change out?
Second, I just had an alignment done to my car, but the tires need to be rotated. Will a tire rotation affect my alignment along with new springs on the car?
thanks for all the help.
Also any pointers for a smoother install on the springs would be helpful since it's just me and a buddy putting them on.
Bump to the top!
****tough Luck?!?!
Today I am hopefully installing my Sportlines on my 2.2.
My question to you guys is, first off, how long am I looking at time wise for a spring change out?
Second, I just had an alignment done to my car, but the tires need to be rotated. Will a tire rotation affect my alignment along with new springs on the car?
thanks for all the help.
Also any pointers for a smoother install on the springs would be helpful since it's just me and a buddy putting them on.
Bump to the top!
****tough Luck?!?!
Last edited by AZCobalt19; May 27, 2008 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
tip ...break the top bolt in the center of your front struts loose before you take em off...also you need an external spring compressor (rent at any auto store)....its all self explanatory as you go ...the rears take a whole 20mins if that....an the fronts take a little longer since your taking the springs off the struts an puttin a different spring on....cut bump stop if you wish..(only 1 rib)....also apply grease where pieces may squeak or rub...and you will want to use a pneumatic/air gun...otherwise prepare for a rough installation
tip ...break the top bolt in the center of your front struts loose before you take em off...also you need an external spring compressor (rent at any auto store)....its all self explanatory as you go ...the rears take a whole 20mins if that....an the fronts take a little longer since your taking the springs off the struts an puttin a different spring on....cut bump stop if you wish..(only 1 rib)....also apply grease where pieces may squeak or rub...and you will want to use a pneumatic/air gun...otherwise prepare for a rough installation
Why would I need to use a Air gun? I have one, just curious?
well when you take the one nut off the cv join from the strut....the cv join spins..if you have an air gun you keep blippin the trigger an the nut comes off an no need to figure out how to hold the cv joint..otherwise i've no idea how you'd hold the joint from spinning....thats the main problem i came across..luckily we had a air gun ...plus the center bolt on the strut that you need to break loose is easier with an air gun or a bigggg breaker bar
that and for a proper alignment there is a part on the strut that connects to the hub that needs to be drilled out a little bit to all for a certain tweek i can't remembe which. i had my brother do it it all for me in the shop. and everyone i've talked to even the guy who does all the lowering and such recommends this part.
that and for a proper alignment there is a part on the strut that connects to the hub that needs to be drilled out a little bit to all for a certain tweek i can't remembe which. i had my brother do it it all for me in the shop. and everyone i've talked to even the guy who does all the lowering and such recommends this part.
I hope this is a smooth install.
lol
well when you take the one nut off the cv join from the strut....the cv join spins..if you have an air gun you keep blippin the trigger an the nut comes off an no need to figure out how to hold the cv joint..otherwise i've no idea how you'd hold the joint from spinning....thats the main problem i came across..luckily we had a air gun ...plus the center bolt on the strut that you need to break loose is easier with an air gun or a bigggg breaker bar
either or..i couldnt remember wat its called...but it spins...an its the bolt that goes to the axle..you cant really grab it with anything....jus trust me an use an air gun...lifes easier
you're going to confuse him, because you're usng all the wrong words here. you shouldn't be touching any nuts on the axle for springs at all. what you're talking about is called the top strut bolt.
no thats not wat spins ....lower part where you start disconnecting the strut brackets off the one bolt that comes thru spins with the nut....he'll know it when he gets to it
one strong piece of advice is to go very, very easy on the top suspension mount bolts that stick into the engine bay. they only get tightened to about 10-15 ft pounds, which is hand tight with a 1/4" drive. with a 3/8" drive, as SOON as you feel resistance, you're done. i would not attempt this with a 1/2" drive, because they snap like nothing.
Last edited by D4u2s0t; May 27, 2008 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i've done springs many, many times on the cobalt. if you run into problems pm me.
one strong piece of advice is to go very, very easy on the top suspension mount bolts that stick into the engine bay. they only get tightened to about 10-15 ft pounds, which is hand tight with a 1/4" drive. with a 3/8" drive, as SOON as you feel resistance, you're done. i would not attempt this with a 1/2" drive, because they snap like nothing.
one strong piece of advice is to go very, very easy on the top suspension mount bolts that stick into the engine bay. they only get tightened to about 10-15 ft pounds, which is hand tight with a 1/4" drive. with a 3/8" drive, as SOON as you feel resistance, you're done. i would not attempt this with a 1/2" drive, because they snap like nothing.
A few months back I had uneven tire wear and went to an alignment shop and had the cam bolts put in to correct the camber and toe.
After doing further research, I have discovered that after installing the springs, I'll need to offset the front and back??
As well after looking at the directions, I need to cut the front bump stop trim 33mm off the bottom, and I need to cut 13mm of the rear bump stop trim.
What is the best and easiest way to do this?
Bump
Last edited by AZCobalt19; May 27, 2008 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i havent had my car aligned yet! haha Ive had the sportlines, h&r and now coilovers.....I wore down one pair of tires becuz i slammed the front and was doing burnouts everywhere lol
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Last edited by AZCobalt19; May 27, 2008 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i cut mine with a steak knife
the bumpstops are just made of rubber, can probably use scissors, or a regular ole kitchen knife if you don't have a saw. even if you need an allignment, it's not something that would be required immediately. put them on, wait for them to settle, and THEN t ake them to a trusted shop to see if they even need to be aligned. some members find the allignment to be fine after springs.
Ok thanks man. I have a trusted shop here in Mesa that I prefer.
Since I have to cut a certain width off, do I have to measure is, or are there grooves in the bump stops that show where to cut?
Since I have to cut a certain width off, do I have to measure is, or are there grooves in the bump stops that show where to cut?
I have a 2.2 that i am going to put ss/sc springs on i have read that the drop can be upto about an inch can any one confirm this? and would you guys suggest i get adjustable cambers for that little bit of a drop? i'll be getting an alingment no matter what.. or would it better to put the springs on then take for an alignment and see if they suggest adjustable cambers?
you won't need adjustable cambers...the nice thing about s/c springs is most of them when they are taken off they were on long enuff to actually have settled...so you will see if you need to align it...i put my tenzo R's on my s/c an they are pretty ok so far.....springs on a 2.2 make a world of difference from wat i hear but i don't kno if anythings different..i don't believe it is but you will prolly need an alignment


