My Steering rack spacers just came in and they are flat everywhere except with a hole in the middle. From other people's pictures, they have a concave slope around the hole.

Is everyone else's flat?

Also if have Eibach Sportlines Lowering Springs, I have a camber kit, and the questionable spacers.

Do I need anything else?

 

They don't need the concave slope.

 

lol u got it Sox Fan !!

 

wait john is there any downfall from the milled out ones to the solid i currently have the milled concaved ones
thanks

 

from what i remember john mentioned something about the first ones with the milled out part being a mistake, and everyone copied them.

 

the center bushing in the rack mount wont be compressed. the rack housing itself will clamp on the spacer. I doubt it will damage anything, there just wont be as much isolation from rack chatter that way is all.

copiers copy sometimes get found out...

 

When John speaks I pay attention.

That said I still haven't swapped out my copy cat set yet.

 

John what thickness do you recommend for Pedders? Im ready to buy

 

So what I'm being told is the flat ones are the best?

 

what if we flip the spacer?
also whats the recommended thickness?

 

Whats the purpose to this rack pieces? Jw

 

It's job is to eliminate bump steer. Bump steer happens when the wheel moves up or down and the tie rod and control arm don't quite follow the same arc. From the factory its designed to be minimal, the problem gets bad once you lower the car. The rack spacers raise the tie rods to help re align them with the control arms to get them to move in unison so you don't get massive bump steer

 

You have to have rotated mounts; I measured bumpsteer, and about 10 mm was the best to keep the toe correct through ride travel for Pedders

 

Got those. I'll accurately measure mine next week to see exactly what I'm running

 

when you measure what exactly are you measuring?

 

thickness of the spacer
and john if we flip the "knock off" spacers over would that be beneficial because theres no mill out on the backside

 

I was talking about when John was talking about measuring bumpsteer. How
Any sizes are there for the spacers? I am lowered a lot on coilovers. Zero wheel gap with 225/40/18's

 

So the flat steering rack spacers are the right ones?

 

yup as john stated they cause less rack chatter

 

Sweet was getting ready to complain out of the a$$ to get the right ones. Also would it be bad to lower my cobalt 2.2 on 17's with 4 Nankang NS-1 Radial
*215/45R-17XL 91H BSW tires with eibach sportlines. Never lowered before.

 

I agree , good idea, and I think there is enough meat left that it would be strong enough. the torque spec is about 81 ft lbs iirc..

 

bumpsteer check. assume 3 inches of wheel travel as representative for the check.
set tire pressures, no junk in the trunk, measure toe ( I run zero so its easy); record.
jack car up under the cradle 3 inches. measure toe; record.
lower car down to ride height. Left one front wheel 3 inches (roll it up onto a 3 inch wood block)
measure toe; record.

look at what you got. Ideally its should be zero through out. If it varies, and goes to a couple of minutes of toe in, np live with it . If it goes to toe out, raise the rack and remeasure etc.

what i do, is set ride height by measuring what I have, then resting the chassis on blocks at the pinch weld jack areas ( in my case the UCR) at the arrows provided on the rocker panel covers, to that ride height. I then remove springs front and rear, shocks at the rear, (you have to put the struts back without springs and i use a spare set of struts) then i spend the day screwing around measuring and seeing what I need it is easy to lift wheels etc and shim chassis without springs getting in the way.

thats why I get crazy with copiers, cos those jackasses never did any of this r&d and thats the truth.