Steering wheel wobble (lets solve this damn problem)
I've been driving around now on my ottp CABs and the wobble seams to have gone way down...not sure if this will last but for now its alot better!
So maybe all along it was the damn CABS
...I'll keep you guys updated.
So maybe all along it was the damn CABS
I'm sick of the wobble. Cruising at 55-65 is absolutely horrible. My buddy with a 2002 ep3 hatch said he had the same problem when he lowered his (Which has McPherson style front struts) and he said he needed inverted tie rod end links to solve the problem. By inverting the endlinks stress is relieved and the wobble is reduced
Today I was cruising steady 95+. Very slight wobble. My wobble ONLY occurs when I give it more 'oomph' and get the rpms going. Not really a wobble either, more like major shimmy. I literally have to fight it 100% if I go WOT.
i have this issue.. and i had my axles replaced.. still persists endlinks are new, struts are new, tires are balanced.. I've been told it might be control arms or the bushings allowing too much movement..
it only happems to me at speeds under 40 though
it only happems to me at speeds under 40 though
I have this on a 100% stock 06 SS, there was a bulletin for GM to replace the intermediate shaft. I haven't had this changed/replaced i hope it goes aways, but according to the bulletin it will only stop the clunk you hear when turning from a stop
Okay I have a similar wobble.. Don't feel it much in the steering wheel.. Started off very very light and over a 5-6 month period now it's terrible.. Depends on load, sometimes it will wobble extremely bad that I have to let off the gas.. Sometimes it won't wobble much.. Sometimes I cando a wot pull and not feel it too bad.. Other times it feels like my wheels are square! You can feel it in the steering wheel but not bad. More so in the feet, seems like passenger side but I could be wrong. Doesn't do it under braking..that I know of. Help
startin to think its the trans/clutch.
jack up the car so the tires are off the ground.
put your hands at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad ball joints or wheel bearings.
put your hands at 9 oclock and 3 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad tie rod ends.
with the car lowered, turn the wheel all the way to the right. kick the front of the passenger tire and see if there is significant movement. if there is, this is indicative of a bad lower rear control arm bushing. do the same with the opposite side.
in an open parking lot, cut the wheel all the way to one direction, put the car in reverse, and drive around in a circle with the wheel at full lock. if you hear a repeated clicking noise, then you have a bad cv joint. repeat with the wheel at opposite lock.
report back with your results.
put your hands at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad ball joints or wheel bearings.
put your hands at 9 oclock and 3 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad tie rod ends.
with the car lowered, turn the wheel all the way to the right. kick the front of the passenger tire and see if there is significant movement. if there is, this is indicative of a bad lower rear control arm bushing. do the same with the opposite side.
in an open parking lot, cut the wheel all the way to one direction, put the car in reverse, and drive around in a circle with the wheel at full lock. if you hear a repeated clicking noise, then you have a bad cv joint. repeat with the wheel at opposite lock.
report back with your results.
jack up the car so the tires are off the ground.
put your hands at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad ball joints or wheel bearings.
put your hands at 9 oclock and 3 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad tie rod ends.
with the car lowered, turn the wheel all the way to the right. kick the front of the passenger tire and see if there is significant movement. if there is, this is indicative of a bad lower rear control arm bushing. do the same with the opposite side.
in an open parking lot, cut the wheel all the way to one direction, put the car in reverse, and drive around in a circle with the wheel at full lock. if you hear a repeated clicking noise, then you have a bad cv joint. repeat with the wheel at opposite lock.
report back with your results.
put your hands at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad ball joints or wheel bearings.
put your hands at 9 oclock and 3 oclock and push with one hand and pull with the other in both directions. if there is any play, this could be indicative of bad tie rod ends.
with the car lowered, turn the wheel all the way to the right. kick the front of the passenger tire and see if there is significant movement. if there is, this is indicative of a bad lower rear control arm bushing. do the same with the opposite side.
in an open parking lot, cut the wheel all the way to one direction, put the car in reverse, and drive around in a circle with the wheel at full lock. if you hear a repeated clicking noise, then you have a bad cv joint. repeat with the wheel at opposite lock.
report back with your results.
I know how to check for wheel bearings and tie rods lol.. Did it 100 times no play at all.. Control arm bushings are good.. Changed the passenger side the other day, axles are good I wish it was something that easy.
also, a small amount of play isnt anything to worry about.


