Suspension geometry. What you need to know.
10-21-2006, 07:14 AM
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Suspension geometry. What you need to know.
Ok this can get really complicated with all the different parts that go along with the suspension and drive line.
I'm going to make this a bit simpler buy focusing on the geometry involved with just the Delta platform.
There are 5 main things you need to know.
1st is camber angle.
2nd is toe angle.
3rd is caster angle.
4th is drive line angle.
5th is bump steer angle.
These are the 5 main things that will be effected by lowering a Delta car. And they need to be addressed if you lower the car. An Alignment should fix most of this.
First Ill explain what each of these things is and how it will effect the car after its been lowered.
1st is Camber angle.
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel at the top, measured in degrees from true vertical. Some negative camber is what you want for handling. 0 camber for going fast in a straight line. And you never want positive camber. Its bad.
Now we will start with negative camber. This means that the top of your tire is tilted in towered the car. A small amount of this is good for cornering but to much will make you plow in the corners and will ware the inside of your tires out faster.
0 Camber means that your tire is strait up and down and has no angle to it.
0 Camber is good for drag racing as it will give you the most amount of tire on the ground for better traction of the line.
You will be giving up some cornering ability of you do this.
Positive camber means that the top of your tire is farther from the car then the bottom.
This is bad and has to be fixed ASAP. It will not improve any thing on your car and will ware your tires out faster.
Now that you know what camber is you need to know how lowering your car can effect it.
When you lower your car you will most likely increase positive camber. Now it will not be much but it could adversely effect the way your car handles in the curves and will make getting off the line harder. This can be corrected with an alignment.
You may also end up with one tire having more negative camber then the other. Unequal camber causes the vehicle to pull toward the side with the most positive (outward) camber.
This needs to be fixed, you will need to get an alignment ASAP!
Next up is Toe angle.
Toe angle is the relation between the tires them selves.
This measurement is taken at the front and rear of the wheels. When the front is closer together then the rear this is a positive toe angle. Where the rear is closer together then the front is this is a negative toe angle.
Now if you have to much toe angle - or + it will cause your tires to ware out alot faster and can make the car harder to control at higher speeds.
This can be effect when lowering your car. You will most likely increase positive toe angle. This needs to be corrected with an alignment ASAP.
Next is caster angle. Unless you have coilovers with adjustable top plates this is not a problem for you. If you do then leave them at the stock setting for now and post in here and Ill explain it. I'm not going to go in to this right now though because no one makes adjustable top plates for these cars yet.
Next up is drive line angle.
Now every car has a set angle from the factory that the half shafts sit at when the car is not moving or loaded.
This is the static drive line angle.
This angle will effect how long your half shafts will last and how well they will perform during that time.
To much angle and they tend to brake vary easy. This should not be a problem unless your going to lift the car!
If they don't have enough angle this can cause stress to be put on a part of the shaft that was not meant to handle high stress loads. This can lead to early failure.
Now when you lower the car you remove some angle from the drive line. If you lower it to much you will have a problem later on with half shafts braking or warring out early.
This is why the motor is clocked forwerd in the drag cars and cup cars. Clocking the motor and trans forwerd adds the lost angle from lowering the car.
From looking at the drive line of my car I would say that any thing over 1.25"s in the front for the SS S/C will begin to cause problems for you. If you are going to up the power this is the limit as to how far I would drop the car. Any thing over this and your half shaft life will be shortened dramatically.
Now the last thing is bump steer.
Most of you don't know what this is or how it effects your car.
Well bump steer is what happens when you hit a small bump in the road and the car pulls to one direction or the other.
Now when manufacturers build a car they set the tie rods up at certain angles to help prevent bump steer. They also position the tie rode mounting point on the steering knuckle at a certain hight to help with this.
When you lower a car you change the angle that the tie rode sits at when the car is not moving and not loaded. If you change this angle to much you can end up with exessive bump steer. This is not good for performance driving and can ware your tires faster.
After looking at my car I'm going to have to say that 1.25" drop in the front for the SS S/C is going to be the max before you may start to have a problem with this. I would not advise going lower then that.
Now that you have a better understanding of how lowering your car can effect it's suspension geometry you can make a more informed desicion on a spring or a coilover setting.
In closing it seams to me that 1.25"s in the front and 1.25-1.7"s in the rear of an SS/SC should be the max drop for the car if you intend to drive it more then a few hundred miles a month. Or intend to race it at any time.
The optimal drop for the SS S/C for performance is about 1" frpnt and 1.25-1.5"s in the rear. This will make your car handle the best with out adding any more stress to the drive line then you have to.
Enjoy!
I'm going to make this a bit simpler buy focusing on the geometry involved with just the Delta platform.
There are 5 main things you need to know.
1st is camber angle.
2nd is toe angle.
3rd is caster angle.
4th is drive line angle.
5th is bump steer angle.
These are the 5 main things that will be effected by lowering a Delta car. And they need to be addressed if you lower the car. An Alignment should fix most of this.
First Ill explain what each of these things is and how it will effect the car after its been lowered.
1st is Camber angle.
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel at the top, measured in degrees from true vertical. Some negative camber is what you want for handling. 0 camber for going fast in a straight line. And you never want positive camber. Its bad.
Now we will start with negative camber. This means that the top of your tire is tilted in towered the car. A small amount of this is good for cornering but to much will make you plow in the corners and will ware the inside of your tires out faster.
0 Camber means that your tire is strait up and down and has no angle to it.
0 Camber is good for drag racing as it will give you the most amount of tire on the ground for better traction of the line.
You will be giving up some cornering ability of you do this.
Positive camber means that the top of your tire is farther from the car then the bottom.
This is bad and has to be fixed ASAP. It will not improve any thing on your car and will ware your tires out faster.
Now that you know what camber is you need to know how lowering your car can effect it.
When you lower your car you will most likely increase positive camber. Now it will not be much but it could adversely effect the way your car handles in the curves and will make getting off the line harder. This can be corrected with an alignment.
You may also end up with one tire having more negative camber then the other. Unequal camber causes the vehicle to pull toward the side with the most positive (outward) camber.
This needs to be fixed, you will need to get an alignment ASAP!
Next up is Toe angle.
Toe angle is the relation between the tires them selves.
This measurement is taken at the front and rear of the wheels. When the front is closer together then the rear this is a positive toe angle. Where the rear is closer together then the front is this is a negative toe angle.
Now if you have to much toe angle - or + it will cause your tires to ware out alot faster and can make the car harder to control at higher speeds.
This can be effect when lowering your car. You will most likely increase positive toe angle. This needs to be corrected with an alignment ASAP.
Next is caster angle. Unless you have coilovers with adjustable top plates this is not a problem for you. If you do then leave them at the stock setting for now and post in here and Ill explain it. I'm not going to go in to this right now though because no one makes adjustable top plates for these cars yet.
Next up is drive line angle.
Now every car has a set angle from the factory that the half shafts sit at when the car is not moving or loaded.
This is the static drive line angle.
This angle will effect how long your half shafts will last and how well they will perform during that time.
To much angle and they tend to brake vary easy. This should not be a problem unless your going to lift the car!
If they don't have enough angle this can cause stress to be put on a part of the shaft that was not meant to handle high stress loads. This can lead to early failure.
Now when you lower the car you remove some angle from the drive line. If you lower it to much you will have a problem later on with half shafts braking or warring out early.
This is why the motor is clocked forwerd in the drag cars and cup cars. Clocking the motor and trans forwerd adds the lost angle from lowering the car.
From looking at the drive line of my car I would say that any thing over 1.25"s in the front for the SS S/C will begin to cause problems for you. If you are going to up the power this is the limit as to how far I would drop the car. Any thing over this and your half shaft life will be shortened dramatically.
Now the last thing is bump steer.
Most of you don't know what this is or how it effects your car.
Well bump steer is what happens when you hit a small bump in the road and the car pulls to one direction or the other.
Now when manufacturers build a car they set the tie rods up at certain angles to help prevent bump steer. They also position the tie rode mounting point on the steering knuckle at a certain hight to help with this.
When you lower a car you change the angle that the tie rode sits at when the car is not moving and not loaded. If you change this angle to much you can end up with exessive bump steer. This is not good for performance driving and can ware your tires faster.
After looking at my car I'm going to have to say that 1.25" drop in the front for the SS S/C is going to be the max before you may start to have a problem with this. I would not advise going lower then that.
Now that you have a better understanding of how lowering your car can effect it's suspension geometry you can make a more informed desicion on a spring or a coilover setting.
In closing it seams to me that 1.25"s in the front and 1.25-1.7"s in the rear of an SS/SC should be the max drop for the car if you intend to drive it more then a few hundred miles a month. Or intend to race it at any time.
The optimal drop for the SS S/C for performance is about 1" frpnt and 1.25-1.5"s in the rear. This will make your car handle the best with out adding any more stress to the drive line then you have to.
Enjoy!
10-21-2006, 10:11 AM
#2
I'm old school
Something unique about the delta cars, the Camber angle in NOT adjustable. There is no slot in the strut or knuckle to allow you make any adjustment. So call Camber-kits won't work on our cars. Toe angle is just about the only thing that can adjusted on the Deltas via the steering tie rods.
10-21-2006, 10:51 AM
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This ^ Is incorrect.
The camber can be adjusted on this car. More so then most other cars. Both holes in the knuckle are slightly to big and alow for camber adjustment.
I watched them do mine and talked to the tec as it was done after I had a bad strut replaced at the dealer. (My strut started to leak oil at the top seal for the shaft. There was a small cut mark in the shaft that damedged the seal.)
Later
The camber can be adjusted on this car. More so then most other cars. Both holes in the knuckle are slightly to big and alow for camber adjustment.
I watched them do mine and talked to the tec as it was done after I had a bad strut replaced at the dealer. (My strut started to leak oil at the top seal for the shaft. There was a small cut mark in the shaft that damedged the seal.)
Later
10-21-2006, 10:55 AM
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Also a cmaber kit that uses a cam type bolt would work on a car with no adjustment. Thats what I used on my cavalier as it had no adjustment with the aftermarket struts on it.
Later
Later
10-21-2006, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Badmunky
Ok this can get really complicated with all the different parts that go along with the suspension and drive line.
I'm going to make this a bit simpler buy focusing on the geometry involved with just the Delta platform.
There are 5 main things you need to know.
1st is camber angle.
2nd is toe angle.
3rd is caster angle.
4th is drive line angle.
5th is bump steer angle.
Next up is drive line angle.
Now every car has a set angle from the factory that the half shafts sit at when the car is not moving or loaded.
This is the static drive line angle.
This angle will effect how long your half shafts will last and how well they will perform during that time.
To much angle and they tend to brake vary easy. This should not be a problem unless your going to lift the car!
If they don't have enough angle this can cause stress to be put on a part of the shaft that was not meant to handle high stress loads. This can lead to early failure.
Now when you lower the car you remove some angle from the drive line. If you lower it to much you will have a problem later on with half shafts braking or warring out early.
This is why the motor is clocked forwerd in the drag cars and cup cars. Clocking the motor and trans forwerd adds the lost angle from lowering the car.
From looking at the drive line of my car I would say that any thing over 1.25"s in the front for the SS S/C will begin to cause problems for you. If you are going to up the power this is the limit as to how far I would drop the car. Any thing over this and your half shaft life will be shortened dramatically.
Now the last thing is bump steer.
Most of you don't know what this is or how it effects your car.
Well bump steer is what happens when you hit a small bump in the road and the car pulls to one direction or the other.
Now when manufacturers build a car they set the tie rods up at certain angles to help prevent bump steer. They also position the tie rode mounting point on the steering knuckle at a certain hight to help with this.
When you lower a car you change the angle that the tie rode sits at when the car is not moving and not loaded. If you change this angle to much you can end up with exessive bump steer. This is not good for performance driving and can ware your tires faster.
After looking at my car I'm going to have to say that 1.25" drop in the front for the SS S/C is going to be the max before you may start to have a problem with this. I would not advise going lower then that.
Now that you have a better understanding of how lowering your car can effect it's suspension geometry you can make a more informed desicion on a spring or a coilover setting.
In closing it seams to me that 1.25"s in the front and 1.25-1.7"s in the rear of an SS/SC should be the max drop for the car if you intend to drive it more then a few hundred miles a month. Or intend to race it at any time.
The optimal drop for the SS S/C for performance is about 1" frpnt and 1.25-1.5"s in the rear. This will make your car handle the best with out adding any more stress to the drive line then you have to.
Enjoy!
I'm going to make this a bit simpler buy focusing on the geometry involved with just the Delta platform.
There are 5 main things you need to know.
1st is camber angle.
2nd is toe angle.
3rd is caster angle.
4th is drive line angle.
5th is bump steer angle.
Next up is drive line angle.
Now every car has a set angle from the factory that the half shafts sit at when the car is not moving or loaded.
This is the static drive line angle.
This angle will effect how long your half shafts will last and how well they will perform during that time.
To much angle and they tend to brake vary easy. This should not be a problem unless your going to lift the car!
If they don't have enough angle this can cause stress to be put on a part of the shaft that was not meant to handle high stress loads. This can lead to early failure.
Now when you lower the car you remove some angle from the drive line. If you lower it to much you will have a problem later on with half shafts braking or warring out early.
This is why the motor is clocked forwerd in the drag cars and cup cars. Clocking the motor and trans forwerd adds the lost angle from lowering the car.
From looking at the drive line of my car I would say that any thing over 1.25"s in the front for the SS S/C will begin to cause problems for you. If you are going to up the power this is the limit as to how far I would drop the car. Any thing over this and your half shaft life will be shortened dramatically.
Now the last thing is bump steer.
Most of you don't know what this is or how it effects your car.
Well bump steer is what happens when you hit a small bump in the road and the car pulls to one direction or the other.
Now when manufacturers build a car they set the tie rods up at certain angles to help prevent bump steer. They also position the tie rode mounting point on the steering knuckle at a certain hight to help with this.
When you lower a car you change the angle that the tie rode sits at when the car is not moving and not loaded. If you change this angle to much you can end up with exessive bump steer. This is not good for performance driving and can ware your tires faster.
After looking at my car I'm going to have to say that 1.25" drop in the front for the SS S/C is going to be the max before you may start to have a problem with this. I would not advise going lower then that.
Now that you have a better understanding of how lowering your car can effect it's suspension geometry you can make a more informed desicion on a spring or a coilover setting.
In closing it seams to me that 1.25"s in the front and 1.25-1.7"s in the rear of an SS/SC should be the max drop for the car if you intend to drive it more then a few hundred miles a month. Or intend to race it at any time.
The optimal drop for the SS S/C for performance is about 1" frpnt and 1.25-1.5"s in the rear. This will make your car handle the best with out adding any more stress to the drive line then you have to.
Enjoy!
Alot of what you discussing is true if you change things more drastically with out changin another.
Bump steer - If you were to go with different control arms or knuckles with out keeping the angle with the steering linkage. the angle of the steering connecting rod (inbetween the tie rods) has to be at the same angle as the lower control arm angle in order to maintain the same geometry throught the suspension movement. the knuckle steering arm also has to be considered in this equation and the rack to be in line with it as well (not forward or behind the arms).
In the case of lowering the car with out changing the other geometry the case of bump steer does not have to be worried about or considered.
Driveline angle is actually improved with lowering the car believe it or not. the axle is more straight.
Two back this up I Consulted two ASE technicians. You will find the same feedback if you get a second opinion from a ASE certified tech.
10-21-2006, 02:29 PM
#6
I'm old school
There may be a difference between the knuckles of the FE5 suspension then. I did my own front springs on my car and authored the How-To on this forum. The strut to knuckle bolts and holes are completely non-adjustable. I had the cam bolt kit in hand when I did at the time they would not be usable.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/front-strut-spring-r-r-23418/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/front-strut-spring-r-r-23418/
10-21-2006, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
There may be a difference between the knuckles of the FE5 suspension then. I did my own front springs on my car and authored the How-To on this forum. The strut to knuckle bolts and holes are completely non-adjustable. I had the cam bolt kit in hand when I did at the time they would not be usable.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23418
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23418
I Have an SS/sc so the change is not as drastic as a Regular Cobalt (LT or LS). Is was basically toe and go. there is no adjustment in the rear at all that can be done. not even shims.
10-22-2006, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ssnipes
Good info but just to point out a few things.
Alot of what you discussing is true if you change things more drastically with out changin another.
Bump steer - If you were to go with different control arms or knuckles with out keeping the angle with the steering linkage. the angle of the steering connecting rod (inbetween the tie rods) has to be at the same angle as the lower control arm angle in order to maintain the same geometry throught the suspension movement. the knuckle steering arm also has to be considered in this equation and the rack to be in line with it as well (not forward or behind the arms).
In the case of lowering the car with out changing the other geometry the case of bump steer does not have to be worried about or considered.
Driveline angle is actually improved with lowering the car believe it or not. the axle is more straight.
Two back this up I Consulted two ASE technicians. You will find the same feedback if you get a second opinion from a ASE certified tech.
Alot of what you discussing is true if you change things more drastically with out changin another.
Bump steer - If you were to go with different control arms or knuckles with out keeping the angle with the steering linkage. the angle of the steering connecting rod (inbetween the tie rods) has to be at the same angle as the lower control arm angle in order to maintain the same geometry throught the suspension movement. the knuckle steering arm also has to be considered in this equation and the rack to be in line with it as well (not forward or behind the arms).
In the case of lowering the car with out changing the other geometry the case of bump steer does not have to be worried about or considered.
Driveline angle is actually improved with lowering the car believe it or not. the axle is more straight.
Two back this up I Consulted two ASE technicians. You will find the same feedback if you get a second opinion from a ASE certified tech.
I was ASE certifide for suspension, alignments, and drive line repare,
When you make the drive axles straight or close to it is when you brake them.
They have to have some angle to them in order to keep the load on the right part of the slip joint and to help move the lube around in side them.
After 1.25"s drop in the front you start to get to a point where they nolonger have enuff angle and that will couse problems.
If your tec told you other wise, find a new tec. Or send him back to school.
Have you ever lowered a truck? If you do anything more then a 2" drop on most trucks you have to put a spacer block with the right angles in there to reset the drive line angle so you dont brake the drive shaft.
Same thing with a front wheel drive car. If you remove to much angle and dont componsate for it by clocking the motor and trans as they did in the build book and on the cup and drag cars then you will have problems.
As for bump steer, the control arm and tie rods are not the exact same langth. By lowering the car you change the angle of the control arm in relation to the angle of the tie rode. This can cause bump steer problems on and uneven road.
It can also make torque steer wores then it was stock.
Now Im not saying that if you lower the car you will increase bump steer, or torque steer but you are more likely to get ether or both if you lower the front of the car past 1.25"s. That # is for the SS S/C. Not the base cars. They can be lowered more and still be ok do to there higher stock ride hight.
As for the rear, you can infact get shims for the rear. I asked the dealer that when I had my strut replaced. Infact if you buy the upgraded steering knuckls the new alignment specs given cant be done in the rear without shims.
However you should not need to shim the rear unless you are going for some crazy autoX alignment. Or you mesed the car up and need to get it back to stock specs after curbing the rear or something like that.
Halfcent:
You may be right on the non SS cars. I dont have one to look at so I cant say for sure. So Ill just go with what you said.
I dont know how much there is differant on the non SS but if I needed to I could use a cam type camber kit on the SS. But its not needed.
Later
10-22-2006, 08:05 AM
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Front camber is adjustable. Kind of hard to understand, (GM manuals sometimes are not so good) but if you have your strut off it is easy to see what you have to do.
Dennis
Document ID# 867666
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front Camber Adjustment
Loosen both strut to knuckle nuts just enough to allow for movement.
If the strut has not been modified previously, perform the following steps before continuing with the wheel alignment:
2.1. Disconnect the strut from the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
2.2. File the lower hole until the groove of the stamped ring around the hole.
2.3. Connect the strut to the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
Adjust the camber to specification by moving the top of the wheel in or out. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 867666
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
Dennis
Document ID# 867666
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front Camber Adjustment
Loosen both strut to knuckle nuts just enough to allow for movement.
If the strut has not been modified previously, perform the following steps before continuing with the wheel alignment:
2.1. Disconnect the strut from the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
2.2. File the lower hole until the groove of the stamped ring around the hole.
2.3. Connect the strut to the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
Adjust the camber to specification by moving the top of the wheel in or out. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 867666
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
10-23-2006, 09:22 AM
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I would like to add that for street use, if you chose to drive "spirited" you should run a -1 camber.
I'd also like to add that when you lower your car, you not only are affecting the camber your car has sitting still but also when the car makes a turn. For instance, if you are lowered 2 inches and your control arms look like this \ / compared to the ground, when you turn the camber goes positive which is drastically hurting your cornering. However, if your control arms look like this / \ compared to the ground, when you turn the outside wheel will actually go negative which will help your contact patch. There is a limit to how much youc an adjust your camber with the stock parts so keep all of this in mind when you lower the car.
I'd also like to add that when you lower your car, you not only are affecting the camber your car has sitting still but also when the car makes a turn. For instance, if you are lowered 2 inches and your control arms look like this \ / compared to the ground, when you turn the camber goes positive which is drastically hurting your cornering. However, if your control arms look like this / \ compared to the ground, when you turn the outside wheel will actually go negative which will help your contact patch. There is a limit to how much youc an adjust your camber with the stock parts so keep all of this in mind when you lower the car.
10-23-2006, 11:33 AM
#11
I'm old school
That GM service instruction specifically states how if it hasn't been done yet, you have to remove the strut and slot out the bottom attachment hole. That makes sense. I am now curious about a couple things.
1. Do the SS struts come slotted brand new?
2. Do the GM alternate steering knuckles have any different geometery to them at all or are they just beefed up?
1. Do the SS struts come slotted brand new?
2. Do the GM alternate steering knuckles have any different geometery to them at all or are they just beefed up?
Last edited by Halfcent; 10-23-2006 at 05:25 PM.
10-23-2006, 12:00 PM
#12
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Halfcent
That GM service instruction specifically states how if it hasn't been done yet, you have to remove the strut and slot out the bottom attachment hole. That makes sense. I am now curious about a couple things.
1. Do the SS struts come slotted brand new?
2. Do the GM alternate steering knuckles have any different geometery to them at all or are they just beefed up?
1. Do the SS struts come slotted brand new?
2. Do the GM alternate steering knuckles have any different geometery to them at all or are they just beefed up?
Last edited by Halfcent; 10-23-2006 at 05:25 PM.
11-07-2006, 07:45 PM
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I've read alot of info on lowering the balt and I still am unsure wether or not I will need an alignment after the springs are installed. Some say yes, others say no, which is true? BTW, I am installing the Eibach ProKit...
11-07-2006, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Badmunky
I think that the upgraded knuckls are just stronger and nothing els.
And I think that the struts on the SS are sloted stock.
Later
And I think that the struts on the SS are sloted stock.
Later
11-07-2006, 08:01 PM
#16
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11-07-2006, 09:38 PM
#17
I'm old school
Originally Posted by 1SloBowtie
I've read alot of info on lowering the balt and I still am unsure wether or not I will need an alignment after the springs are installed. Some say yes, others say no, which is true? BTW, I am installing the Eibach ProKit...
11-09-2006, 07:05 AM
#19
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I know this is a bit of an old post, but I was wondering if the half shaft strain on our cars from being lowered would not be as great as a truck?? Especially since ours is a hell of a lot shorter. I can see the problem with dropping or lifting a vehicle that has a driveline that runs just about the lenght of the vehicle, but..I was just wondering because I may be putting a drop on mine, 1.6 front and 1.8 rear. I got a damn good deal on springs.
11-13-2006, 03:42 AM
#20
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Thats alot of drop.
The thing with a truck is that with the longer drive shaft it is not as badly afected as a front wheel drive car is. and you can get a block to add to the rear leaf springs to get the right angles back in your drive line after you lower it.
You cant do that with a front wheel drive car.
Thats why The race cars have the motors clocked forwerd. This rases the back of the trans where the half shafts go in to get the needed angles back.
Later
The thing with a truck is that with the longer drive shaft it is not as badly afected as a front wheel drive car is. and you can get a block to add to the rear leaf springs to get the right angles back in your drive line after you lower it.
You cant do that with a front wheel drive car.
Thats why The race cars have the motors clocked forwerd. This rases the back of the trans where the half shafts go in to get the needed angles back.
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11-13-2006, 05:21 PM
#22
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Sorry about that. Was not sure what model he had. I looked at his sig and he has a supercharged emblem in it so I went with that.
If you have an LS that you should be fine man.
Later
If you have an LS that you should be fine man.
Later
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