Time for Suspension Maintenance - Thoughts?
Time for Suspension Maintenance - Thoughts?
Ok, my front end is all out of whack and I figure it is time to replace some parts as she just past 80k. Here is the list:
SS/TC Struts & Shocks
OTTP Reverse Mount
Moog Sway Bar Links
Moog Inner Steering Tie Rods
Moog Ball Joints
Moog CA Bushings
Steering Rack Spacers
Reliability and longevity are first, but I really love handling too w/o breaking the bank.
'06 SS/SC current mods: Eibach Sportlines, DC Strut Bar, TTR Rear AntiSway, Stoptech Slotted Rotors w/ Hawk Pads, Injen CAI
Just wanted some thoughts on the choices I've made based off the research on this site and the web, or if I'm totally off base.
SS/TC Struts & Shocks
OTTP Reverse Mount
Moog Sway Bar Links
Moog Inner Steering Tie Rods
Moog Ball Joints
Moog CA Bushings
Steering Rack Spacers
Reliability and longevity are first, but I really love handling too w/o breaking the bank.
'06 SS/SC current mods: Eibach Sportlines, DC Strut Bar, TTR Rear AntiSway, Stoptech Slotted Rotors w/ Hawk Pads, Injen CAI
Just wanted some thoughts on the choices I've made based off the research on this site and the web, or if I'm totally off base.
yes, no, maybe?
At one point I considered the ZZP Control Arms mainly for dissuading torque steer as I do not have the LSD. But price and the style of bushing turned me away.
How do you guys feel about Moog, at least those that know of them and have used their products?
At one point I considered the ZZP Control Arms mainly for dissuading torque steer as I do not have the LSD. But price and the style of bushing turned me away.
How do you guys feel about Moog, at least those that know of them and have used their products?
right now i upgrade almost all my suspension since i used to have a clunky noise(long story)
i went:
zzp control arms
pedders
ss/tc shocks and struts
ott axles
rack spacers
ott end links
and i love the handling but i still have the sound
so i assume that it is the intermediate shaft (already ordered) or the sway bar since they were the only thing i dint change
i went:
zzp control arms
pedders
ss/tc shocks and struts
ott axles
rack spacers
ott end links
and i love the handling but i still have the sound
so i assume that it is the intermediate shaft (already ordered) or the sway bar since they were the only thing i dint change
Thanks for the feedback.
Gabi- How much road noise and impact harshness do you feel as opposed to your previous suspension? The roads where I am located are not in the best condition at all.
Also, does anyone have a part number for the Moog leading inner bushing?
Based off their site, the thermoplastic's sound like a good replacement and exactly the performance/harshness ratio I'm looking for. Unfortunately, I believe what's out for the cobalt is conventional rubber, though maybe of better quality and design than oem.
Federal-Mogul offers two types of bushings under the MoogŽ brand. One uses conventional rubber, and the second uses a problem-solving thermoplastic design that combines the memory of rubber and strength of plastic.
Moog rubber bushings are designed to reduce vibration and absorb noise.
Our advanced thermoplastic bushings absorb vibration and noise and deliver better handling and longer life, while providing the performance of urethane without the “squeak” normally associated with it. They are not affected by oils, alkalines, ozone or hydrocarbons; can withstand extreme weather conditions; can carry substantial loads; and will not discolor or crack with age.
Moog offers a broad range of application-specific sway bar bushings as well as universal and heavy-duty bushings. All Moog bushings are designed to meet or exceed OE specifications.
Gabi- How much road noise and impact harshness do you feel as opposed to your previous suspension? The roads where I am located are not in the best condition at all.
Also, does anyone have a part number for the Moog leading inner bushing?
Based off their site, the thermoplastic's sound like a good replacement and exactly the performance/harshness ratio I'm looking for. Unfortunately, I believe what's out for the cobalt is conventional rubber, though maybe of better quality and design than oem.
Federal-Mogul offers two types of bushings under the MoogŽ brand. One uses conventional rubber, and the second uses a problem-solving thermoplastic design that combines the memory of rubber and strength of plastic.
Moog rubber bushings are designed to reduce vibration and absorb noise.
Our advanced thermoplastic bushings absorb vibration and noise and deliver better handling and longer life, while providing the performance of urethane without the “squeak” normally associated with it. They are not affected by oils, alkalines, ozone or hydrocarbons; can withstand extreme weather conditions; can carry substantial loads; and will not discolor or crack with age.
Moog offers a broad range of application-specific sway bar bushings as well as universal and heavy-duty bushings. All Moog bushings are designed to meet or exceed OE specifications.
Last edited by Dom3sticBeast; Aug 29, 2010 at 03:58 AM.
uh, hate to break it to you, but if you HAVE to replace the ball joints, then you have to replace the whole control arm. But the ball joints are a sealed unit, and they're one of the best kinds in the market, so unless the rubber housing is torn, there's no need to replace it. Seeing as how to replace the whole control arm will run you close to 300 bucks.
uh, hate to break it to you, but if you HAVE to replace the ball joints, then you have to replace the whole control arm. But the ball joints are a sealed unit, and they're one of the best kinds in the market, so unless the rubber housing is torn, there's no need to replace it. Seeing as how to replace the whole control arm will run you close to 300 bucks.
You can most definitely replace only the ball joints... The ***** joints can and will wear out just as any others. I have the Moogs on my car with the stock FE5 control arms.
Your list looks good. However... You're not 'supposed to' replace the inner tie rods. Instead you're supposed to replace the entire rack. Reason being there are internal bushings in the rack that aren't serviceable. I replaced one of my inner rods however and it works fine.
I'd forego the Moog control arm bushings however as they will still fail like the stock ones. If their 'thermoplastic' ones are anything like poly, they will tear and be ruined. Go with the Powell/OTTP units...
Also if you want to do Pedders springs or Powergrid end links now is the time to upgrade while it's all apart. The Mood endlinks are also an upgrade over stock as they are thicker.
Your list looks good. However... You're not 'supposed to' replace the inner tie rods. Instead you're supposed to replace the entire rack. Reason being there are internal bushings in the rack that aren't serviceable. I replaced one of my inner rods however and it works fine.
I'd forego the Moog control arm bushings however as they will still fail like the stock ones. If their 'thermoplastic' ones are anything like poly, they will tear and be ruined. Go with the Powell/OTTP units...
Also if you want to do Pedders springs or Powergrid end links now is the time to upgrade while it's all apart. The Mood endlinks are also an upgrade over stock as they are thicker.
You can most definitely replace only the ball joints... The ***** joints can and will wear out just as any others. I have the Moogs on my car with the stock FE5 control arms.
Your list looks good. However... You're not 'supposed to' replace the inner tie rods. Instead you're supposed to replace the entire rack. Reason being there are internal bushings in the rack that aren't serviceable. I replaced one of my inner rods however and it works fine.
I'd forego the Moog control arm bushings however as they will still fail like the stock ones. If their 'thermoplastic' ones are anything like poly, they will tear and be ruined. Go with the Powell/OTTP units...
Also if you want to do Pedders springs or Powergrid end links now is the time to upgrade while it's all apart. The Mood endlinks are also an upgrade over stock as they are thicker.
Your list looks good. However... You're not 'supposed to' replace the inner tie rods. Instead you're supposed to replace the entire rack. Reason being there are internal bushings in the rack that aren't serviceable. I replaced one of my inner rods however and it works fine.
I'd forego the Moog control arm bushings however as they will still fail like the stock ones. If their 'thermoplastic' ones are anything like poly, they will tear and be ruined. Go with the Powell/OTTP units...
Also if you want to do Pedders springs or Powergrid end links now is the time to upgrade while it's all apart. The Mood endlinks are also an upgrade over stock as they are thicker.
I'm not moving to Pedders yet as they Eibachs have under 15k on them. Originally had the KSport coil-overs which didn't last over 35k. Also I need figure out why the Pedders are loved so.

After my next couple projects, electrical/ECU then transmission, I'll go back and get the OTTPs and Powergrids.
I want this baby to last till 160k-200k and I think its possible with the right care. She's very resilient!
Very sound info. I have yet to receive my letter in the mail about the steering rack recall. Looks like I can get that replaced and move forward with the rest of the parts.
I'm not moving to Pedders yet as they Eibachs have under 15k on them. Originally had the KSport coil-overs which didn't last over 35k. Also I need figure out why the Pedders are loved so.
After my next couple projects, electrical/ECU then transmission, I'll go back and get the OTTPs and Powergrids.
I want this baby to last till 160k-200k and I think its possible with the right care. She's very resilient!
I'm not moving to Pedders yet as they Eibachs have under 15k on them. Originally had the KSport coil-overs which didn't last over 35k. Also I need figure out why the Pedders are loved so.

After my next couple projects, electrical/ECU then transmission, I'll go back and get the OTTPs and Powergrids.
I want this baby to last till 160k-200k and I think its possible with the right care. She's very resilient!
So what does your newly updated list look like? You going with mostly all Moog replacement parts? If so, RockAuto Auto Parts has them all with good prices. There's usually a 5% off coupon floating around for them as well.
The work isn't hard if you have tools, it is just a bit time consuming. Good luck!
right now i upgrade almost all my suspension since i used to have a clunky noise(long story)
i went:
zzp control arms
pedders
ss/tc shocks and struts
ott axles
rack spacers
ott end links
and i love the handling but i still have the sound
so i assume that it is the intermediate shaft (already ordered) or the sway bar since they were the only thing i dint change
i went:
zzp control arms
pedders
ss/tc shocks and struts
ott axles
rack spacers
ott end links
and i love the handling but i still have the sound
so i assume that it is the intermediate shaft (already ordered) or the sway bar since they were the only thing i dint change
It's not my first rodeo, lol... The recall is for the power steering motor, not the rack... It's only the electric motor under the dash that is bad, not a suspension part.
So what does your newly updated list look like? You going with mostly all Moog replacement parts? If so, RockAuto Auto Parts has them all with good prices. There's usually a 5% off coupon floating around for them as well.
The work isn't hard if you have tools, it is just a bit time consuming. Good luck!
So what does your newly updated list look like? You going with mostly all Moog replacement parts? If so, RockAuto Auto Parts has them all with good prices. There's usually a 5% off coupon floating around for them as well.
The work isn't hard if you have tools, it is just a bit time consuming. Good luck!
Not sure if I'm going to have a shop do it or find a friend that has the means.
Updated List:
2 "Moog K6698 Control Arm Rear Lower Bushing" / $11.82
2 "Moog Ev80445 Inner Steering Tie Rod End" / $37.04
2 "Moog K80567 Ball Joint" / $30.36
2 "Moog K750012 Sway Bar Link"/ $29.00
Free shipping/ no Tax
Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC
OTTP Reverse Mount ~$150
SC/TC Strut Shock combo from CED ~$291
Spacers ~$20
I also need to pick up the outer tie rods as well and the steering rack
Moog ES800030 Tie Rod End $28.40
EPS ~320
And 2 new tires. Ventus V12 evo K110 123x2 ~260 shipped
Roughly $1350 altogether w/o labor.
And now it looks like I might have to do the steering column too as I get the clunking noise.
Bummer on the rack, but at least the motor is getting replaced. Almost jumped on refinancing a new ss but after a quick search I couldn't find any.
Not sure if I'm going to have a shop do it or find a friend that has the means.
Updated List:
2 "Moog K6698 Control Arm Rear Lower Bushing" / $11.82
2 "Moog Ev80445 Inner Steering Tie Rod End" / $37.04
2 "Moog K80567 Ball Joint" / $30.36
2 "Moog K750012 Sway Bar Link"/ $29.00
Free shipping/ no Tax
Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC
OTTP Reverse Mount ~$150
SC/TC Strut Shock combo from CED ~$291
Spacers ~$20
I also need to pick up the outer tie rods as well and the steering rack
Moog ES800030 Tie Rod End $28.40
EPS ~320
And 2 new tires. Ventus V12 evo K110 123x2 ~260 shipped
Roughly $1350 altogether w/o labor.
And now it looks like I might have to do the steering column too as I get the clunking noise.
Not sure if I'm going to have a shop do it or find a friend that has the means.
Updated List:
2 "Moog K6698 Control Arm Rear Lower Bushing" / $11.82
2 "Moog Ev80445 Inner Steering Tie Rod End" / $37.04
2 "Moog K80567 Ball Joint" / $30.36
2 "Moog K750012 Sway Bar Link"/ $29.00
Free shipping/ no Tax
Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC
OTTP Reverse Mount ~$150
SC/TC Strut Shock combo from CED ~$291
Spacers ~$20
I also need to pick up the outer tie rods as well and the steering rack
Moog ES800030 Tie Rod End $28.40
EPS ~320
And 2 new tires. Ventus V12 evo K110 123x2 ~260 shipped
Roughly $1350 altogether w/o labor.
And now it looks like I might have to do the steering column too as I get the clunking noise.
Also I would still stay away from those Moog control arm bushings. They will still fail again after some time. The poly ones will tear and be junk withing 10-15K. The Powell/OTTP ones are a revised spherical joint and they will last much much longer. They are $200, but well worth it if you are going to go through the hassle of replacing them.
The other option is ZZP tubular control arms which include the control arm bushing and the ball joints. Price is about $4-500 a set I believe. The problem with those however is that their control arm bushing is not a sealed all weather unit like OTTP's so they will fail eventually.
Good luck on whatever you decide on.
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