Traction problems
Traction problems
i like everyone else probably has run into the traction and wheel hop problems of the 2.0 supercharged cobalt. i have just recently ordered a prothane transmission motor mount insert and a DC sports front strut bar. is there anything else besides coilovers that would help with the traction problem?
USE DA SEARCH BUTTON!!!!
but seriously, a tourqe damper will help alot. Also, you did order two inserts right, for the front and rear tranny mount?.
Aside from that maybe traction bars for the wheel hop.
As for cornering traction, get some springs or coilovers and a rear sway bar. the rear sway will really help reduce the natural understeer the car has.
but seriously, a tourqe damper will help alot. Also, you did order two inserts right, for the front and rear tranny mount?.
Aside from that maybe traction bars for the wheel hop.
As for cornering traction, get some springs or coilovers and a rear sway bar. the rear sway will really help reduce the natural understeer the car has.
TTR motor and tranny mounts + sticky tires (I'm moving up to BFG KDW's when the stock Pirellis finally go). Can't get any cheaper traction than that, coilovers are pretty pricey.
Traction bars might help a bit, but (correct me if I'm wrong), they help more with keeping the inside wheel planted when taking a hard corner. Motor and tranny mounts will help a lot, ever seen what our stock engines do in the bay when you got WOT?
EDIT: Geez, third post and there were none when I hit the "Reply" button. Man i'm slow.
Traction bars might help a bit, but (correct me if I'm wrong), they help more with keeping the inside wheel planted when taking a hard corner. Motor and tranny mounts will help a lot, ever seen what our stock engines do in the bay when you got WOT?
EDIT: Geez, third post and there were none when I hit the "Reply" button. Man i'm slow.
USE DA SEARCH BUTTON!!!!
but seriously, a tourqe damper will help alot. Also, you did order two inserts right, for the front and rear tranny mount?.
Aside from that maybe traction bars for the wheel hop.
As for cornering traction, get some springs or coilovers and a rear sway bar. the rear sway will really help reduce the natural understeer the car has.
but seriously, a tourqe damper will help alot. Also, you did order two inserts right, for the front and rear tranny mount?.
Aside from that maybe traction bars for the wheel hop.
As for cornering traction, get some springs or coilovers and a rear sway bar. the rear sway will really help reduce the natural understeer the car has.
Once you have the Trans Mounts... get the Upper engine mount... and then there is no need for that gay little ETD.
If you are serious about your traction... you need to look at the BWoody's site... their ACTUAL Solid Mounts are the way to go. You won't need the traction bars with all three mounts... just a good, wide, sticky set of tires.
TTR motor and tranny mounts + sticky tires (I'm moving up to BFG KDW's when the stock Pirellis finally go). Can't get any cheaper traction than that, coilovers are pretty pricey.
Traction bars might help a bit, but (correct me if I'm wrong), they help more with keeping the inside wheel planted when taking a hard corner. Motor and tranny mounts will help a lot, ever seen what our stock engines do in the bay when you got WOT?
EDIT: Geez, third post and there were none when I hit the "Reply" button. Man i'm slow.
Traction bars might help a bit, but (correct me if I'm wrong), they help more with keeping the inside wheel planted when taking a hard corner. Motor and tranny mounts will help a lot, ever seen what our stock engines do in the bay when you got WOT?
EDIT: Geez, third post and there were none when I hit the "Reply" button. Man i'm slow.
If you're talking about straight line traction...
Bwoody Solid Engine/Trans Mounts
Bwoody Traction Bars
But you can't be crying about the vibrations after you get them.
The ETD is garbage if you're looking to make a real difference.
Check my garage if you're interested in setting your car up for turns.
Bwoody Solid Engine/Trans Mounts
Bwoody Traction Bars
But you can't be crying about the vibrations after you get them.
The ETD is garbage if you're looking to make a real difference.
Check my garage if you're interested in setting your car up for turns.
TRASH. I noticed NO difference in my car from having JUST Poly Trans Mounts... to having the Trans Mounts AND the Ingall's.
Once you have the Trans Mounts... get the Upper engine mount... and then there is no need for that gay little ETD.
If you are serious about your traction... you need to look at the BWoody's site... their ACTUAL Solid Mounts are the way to go. You won't need the traction bars with all three mounts... just a good, wide, sticky set of tires.
Once you have the Trans Mounts... get the Upper engine mount... and then there is no need for that gay little ETD.
If you are serious about your traction... you need to look at the BWoody's site... their ACTUAL Solid Mounts are the way to go. You won't need the traction bars with all three mounts... just a good, wide, sticky set of tires.
I've had traction mods on my car for a long time now and haven't had wheelhop since I bought the car but recently cracked the tranny housing somehow. I don't do either of what you mentioned and I'm well aware of how to drive. GM believes the problems can be averted by beefier axels.
So, instead of flapping your face with simple stupid name calling, try making intelligent statements based on facts/experience. Not something you heard that somebody's monkey's brother's sister's grandma's ex-lover's dog did.
....Now Who's a Moron? I think that a harsh word for someone that clearly hasnt broke an axle yet.
Last edited by nuttzzy; May 13, 2008 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
This is true it is the " Sudden Shock" that snaps them NOT!!!!!!! I personaly know someone that was makeing a right turn at a light and was going 20 mph when his cv joint broke on his STOCK CAR not even an intake, and if you wanna say its the sudden shock if your running a racing clutch "like me" and a bunch of other people on this threw you do get more power going to the joints even with a stock motor for the simple fact it grabs better and quicker with no slip
....Now Who's a Moron? I think that a harsh word for someone that clearly hasnt broke an axle yet.
....Now Who's a Moron? I think that a harsh word for someone that clearly hasnt broke an axle yet.
That's one of the stupidest statement that I have heard in a while. Almost as dumb as the guy that says our stock clutches suck... because his went out at 2,000 miles. Of course, he failed to mention that it went out because his Slave Cylinder busted and filled the Bellhousing with Brake Fluid... effectively ruining the clutch.
And putting in a "Racing Clutch" isn't going to give you more power (to the wheels or otherwise)... unless your stock clutch is/was slipping.
Traction Bars can be bought from BWoody...
http://bwoodyperformance.com/
BWoody Performance Products
http://bwoodyperformance.com/
BWoody Performance Products
I can't understand your ****** post. You need to learn to use a Period. That one massive sentence makes my head spin. Either way... using your theory here, if one person has his break making a turn at 20 mph... that means that they are all junk? My car puts down over 270whp now... and I haven't popped an axle. Been to the track quite a few times as well.
That's one of the stupidest statement that I have heard in a while. Almost as dumb as the guy that says our stock clutches suck... because his went out at 2,000 miles. Of course, he failed to mention that it went out because his Slave Cylinder busted and filled the Bellhousing with Brake Fluid... effectively ruining the clutch.
And putting in a "Racing Clutch" isn't going to give you more power (to the wheels or otherwise)... unless your stock clutch is/was slipping.
That's one of the stupidest statement that I have heard in a while. Almost as dumb as the guy that says our stock clutches suck... because his went out at 2,000 miles. Of course, he failed to mention that it went out because his Slave Cylinder busted and filled the Bellhousing with Brake Fluid... effectively ruining the clutch.
And putting in a "Racing Clutch" isn't going to give you more power (to the wheels or otherwise)... unless your stock clutch is/was slipping.
sorry for the ******* grammer. I put in a racing clutch because my shitty stock clutch was slipping. I couldnt make it to the top of an overpass on the highway. Also I didnt say it made more power I said it grabs better and doesnt slip. As far as the Axles go Good for your 270 whp Machine with stock axles. But, if you read around plenty of people are having axel issuse including myself. So just cause yours have'nt broken dont assume they won't or arn't weak.
This is true it is the " Sudden Shock" that snaps them NOT!!!!!!! I personaly know someone that was makeing a right turn at a light and was going 20 mph when his cv joint broke on his STOCK CAR not even an intake, and if you wanna say its the sudden shock if your running a racing clutch "like me" and a bunch of other people on this threw you do get more power going to the joints even with a stock motor for the simple fact it grabs better and quicker with no slip
"If you ain't breaking ****... you ain't going fast enough."
The Axles are a weak point... but they shouldn't be popping with ANYTHING under 300whp AT LEAST.
And the clutch is rated at 400+hp. The problem with it, is that it is temperamental. If you don't drive it the right way... it'll hate you. I beat the living **** out of my car... 52,000 miles in 2 years (and I only put 4k on it in the last 6 months, I took it easy). I've probably WOT my car more in those 2 years... than you've ever WOT anything. I've roasted my clutch a few times... really bad too. But proper driving techniques for the clutch proved useful as it only took about a week for the clutch to start behaving normally again.
In fact, my clutch grabs SO hard when I shift during a race... that the whole car jolts and the CD player skips for a few seconds.
And it doesn't take a bad driver to pop an axle. It just takes one mistake. And there are numerous ways for it to happen.
I've seen a 275hp Eclipse break 400hp axles by making a simple mistake.
The Axles are a weak point... but they shouldn't be popping with ANYTHING under 300whp AT LEAST.
And the clutch is rated at 400+hp. The problem with it, is that it is temperamental. If you don't drive it the right way... it'll hate you. I beat the living **** out of my car... 52,000 miles in 2 years (and I only put 4k on it in the last 6 months, I took it easy). I've probably WOT my car more in those 2 years... than you've ever WOT anything. I've roasted my clutch a few times... really bad too. But proper driving techniques for the clutch proved useful as it only took about a week for the clutch to start behaving normally again.
In fact, my clutch grabs SO hard when I shift during a race... that the whole car jolts and the CD player skips for a few seconds.
And it doesn't take a bad driver to pop an axle. It just takes one mistake. And there are numerous ways for it to happen.
I've seen a 275hp Eclipse break 400hp axles by making a simple mistake.
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