Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Wheel Bearing Replacement

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Old May 17, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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BuuGieWuuGie's Avatar
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Wheel Bearing Replacement

What's up guys, I got a 2006 Cobalt LS 4 dr. The past 5k miles or so I have been getting a humming noise while driving, the faster I got the louder it gets. My first thought was the tires so I replaced those. Balanced and the align was checked but is fine.. After the tires were replaced the noise was not as loud anymore but still there... So after a little searching I saw that it could be the wheel bearing. I searched ebay and advance auto but all I saw was the whole hub. Is this the only way to go? And has anyone done it? I can't find anything on replacing one.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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bump. I need the same info.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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wheel bearing is part of the hub assembly......it's a pretty straight forward thing. Remove tire, caliper, pads/bracket, unbolt axle nut, and there's 3 bolts holding the hub to the spindle. I change em out pretty often at the dealership.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunburst_SS
wheel bearing is part of the hub assembly......it's a pretty straight forward thing. Remove tire, caliper, pads/bracket, unbolt axle nut, and there's 3 bolts holding the hub to the spindle. I change em out pretty often at the dealership.
Any special tools needed?

Originally Posted by Sunburst_SS
wheel bearing is part of the hub assembly......it's a pretty straight forward thing. Remove tire, caliper, pads/bracket, unbolt axle nut, and there's 3 bolts holding the hub to the spindle. I change em out pretty often at the dealership.
also. do u need to grease the bearing a special way?

Last edited by originaladrian; May 17, 2009 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 17, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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The wheel bearing/hub/ABS sensor(if car has ABS) is all one piece, its not greaseable or serviceable in anyway other than the studs can be replaced.

Youll need your lug wrench to remove the wheel, a 15mm to remove the caliper and bracket, a 13mm to remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts, and iirc a 34mm socket to remove the axle nut.

Going back together I use 277 Loctite on everything except the lug nuts.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
The wheel bearing/hub/ABS sensor(if car has ABS) is all one piece, its not greaseable or serviceable in anyway other than the studs can be replaced.

Youll need your lug wrench to remove the wheel, a 15mm to remove the caliper and bracket, a 13mm to remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts, and iirc a 34mm socket to remove the axle nut.

Going back together I use 277 Loctite on everything except the lug nuts.
Awesome post!
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
The wheel bearing/hub/ABS sensor(if car has ABS) is all one piece, its not greaseable or serviceable in anyway other than the studs can be replaced.

Youll need your lug wrench to remove the wheel, a 15mm to remove the caliper and bracket, a 13mm to remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts, and iirc a 34mm socket to remove the axle nut.

Going back together I use 277 Loctite on everything except the lug nuts.
+1 i had to replace both fronts.


i also recommend a rubber hammer to tap the cv shaft back, when its loose, turn the steering wheel to be able to pop the cv shaft out easier.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
The wheel bearing/hub/ABS sensor(if car has ABS) is all one piece, its not greaseable or serviceable in anyway other than the studs can be replaced.

Youll need your lug wrench to remove the wheel, a 15mm to remove the caliper and bracket, a 13mm to remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts, and iirc a 34mm socket to remove the axle nut.

Going back together I use 277 Loctite on everything except the lug nuts.
I love you.


so much

no homo

Last edited by originaladrian; May 17, 2009 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 18, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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Whats your mileage? I had the same problem and it was covered under the 60k powertrain warranty
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Old May 19, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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Hub-to-knuckle bolts are 15mm, at least on the SS. Axle nut is 30mm.

I live in the salt belt, and my hub was really tight (or seized) in the knuckle. I wound up removing the entire knuckle and having the hub pressed out at the shop. I think it was because of the aluminum knuckle; older cars with traditional iron steering knuckles never gave me that much trouble.
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 06:06 AM
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I know this is old but I'm trying to figure out are the back hubs the same as the front? And since we can't take the hubs apart is there anyway to know for sure you're changing the right assembly? I'm not certain I have the right wheel but all four hubs look okay and there's no play in the wheel as of yet although I'm quite certain I'm dealing with a bad wheel bearing.
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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You can feel the roughness in the bearing by spinning the wheel with your hand on the spring. The corner in question should feel like it's rumbling, compared to the smoother ones.

The rears are different but similar concept. They bolt on and are replaced as a complete hub assembly, but they don't have an axle going through them so they are smaller/simpler than the fronts.
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 01:37 PM
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You could use a stethoscope to hear the sound better while spinning the bearing same as joe said
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