First, forgive me if this is in the wrong section (I was torn between Suspension and Drivetrain because the former dealt with brakes and the latter with axles, and the hub assembly is in between..heh). By all means move this to the correct section if I've posted it in the wrong one, and let me know so I know where to put it next time .

Ok, so 2 years ago I got 17" wheels to replace the stock 15". Immediately I had left-pull and like issues, none of which were rectified by alignments. About a year later (or 1 year ago) I got a loud noise from the front wheels. Begin multiple alignments, checks, etc. About 6 months ago I was told, "you have worn wheel bearings." I didn't like the sound of the price ($300 per hub assembly + labor) so I didn't do anything. Now the noise is unbearable (I'm talking headache territory) and I fear the worst for my car (I don't want it to be damaged).

I put the stock 15" wheels back on my car because I believed (and was later told I was probably right by a GM technician - although they have no credibility in my eyes) the larger wheels caused premature wearing of the wheel bearings. This has not fixed the noise problem, so I believe (through minor process of elimination: alignments, stock wheels) the problem is the wheel bearings being worn.

My questions are the following, since I plan to do this myself (to save money and gain experience):

1. Exactly what size socket does the axle/spindle nut require (this forum says 35mm and 36mm in the same thread, I just want to be sure I buy the right one)?

2. If my car has ABS, I have to buy the hub assembly with ABS? On partstrain.com it says on the non-ABS assembly, "Reuse or purchase new ABS components if necessary." Would I be able to buy the non-ABS assembly (it's cheaper) and use my ABS components on it, or is there additional machining/holes drilled on the ABS assembly for these "components" to be installed? Just trying to pinch some pennies.

3. In my repair manual it says the axle nut has to be replaced once it is removed. Unfortunately this repair manual isn't very specific, and I don't know if that means I need to buy a new one (i.e. the nut is one-time-use-only and is ruined once removed) or if it's just stating the obvious (i.e. put the nut back on when you're done so your car doesn't fall apart, duh). What's your take on it?

4. From what I can tell the removal of the old hub assembly and installation of the new one seems pretty cut and dry (i.e. no special tools or skills required). Again, my repair manual is sub-par (Haynes), but it just seems like you unbolt the old assembly (taking care to detach the ABS sensor) and install the new one, using the same hardware. Sound about right? Please point me in the right direction if I'm wrong.

5. Got any suggestions from where I should purchase the hub assemblies? I've only done limited searching around, and partstrain.com looks ok ($84 per assembly for non-ABS, $103 per for ABS). I've only searched online, what about parts stores? More expensive or cheaper?

Any and all help is most appreciated. I look forward to the replies (so I can hurry up and get my car fixed )

 

Answers in red.

 

Wow, thanks for all that information. I really appreciate it. Now it's led me to some more questions.

1. You said 31mm or 32mm depending on my model year for the spindle nut socket size. My car is a 2005 2.2L LS. Do you have the exact nut outside diameter for my particular vehicle model/year or could you point me in the direction of that information?

2. In the thread I referred to earlier about spindle nut socket sizes, it also touched on spindle nut torque specifications for various Cobalt models. From what I read, 155 ft-lbs for SC/TC (SS) models and 81 ft-lbs for non-SC/TC (SS), can you verify this information?

Thanks in advance.

 

The spindle nut for your car is a 30mm. I suggest a deep socket if you can find one.

I just replaced a wheel hub on my buddies 06 LT and all the torque specs I found were pointing to 155 lb ft.


Heres my how to...


http://baltnation.klrbaltdomain.com/...el-hub-bearing

 

Thanks! That's a great how-to.

Another question: I have a torque wrench that only goes up to 150 ft-lbs, but the how-to (and general consensus) states 155 ft-lbs for the axle nut. I don't have access to an impact wrench or a breaker bar. Would 150 ft-lbs for the axle nut be "ok" or must it be precisely 155?

 

I also had a torque wrench that only went to 150 lb ft. I just used my best judgement in all honesty.