this is why not to install urethane control arm bushings
Poly only works in appications where movement is on one plane only. It is terrible at any other application.
Global West makes many spherical teflon sealed components for muscle cars. Last I knew they were doing fine on the street. www.globalwest.net
Global West makes many spherical teflon sealed components for muscle cars. Last I knew they were doing fine on the street. www.globalwest.net
ehhh...kinda, sorta true.
multi-axis forces can belt dealt with using poly quite successfully, however the stiffness of the poly plays a huge role in its ability to deal with multi-directional forces. for our control arm application we need some seriously stiff ****, its multi-axis force holding ability is lacking due to its hardness.
multi-axis forces can belt dealt with using poly quite successfully, however the stiffness of the poly plays a huge role in its ability to deal with multi-directional forces. for our control arm application we need some seriously stiff ****, its multi-axis force holding ability is lacking due to its hardness.
ehhh...kinda, sorta true.
multi-axis forces can belt dealt with using poly quite successfully, however the stiffness of the poly plays a huge role in its ability to deal with multi-directional forces. for our control arm application we need some seriously stiff ****, its multi-axis force holding ability is lacking due to its hardness.
multi-axis forces can belt dealt with using poly quite successfully, however the stiffness of the poly plays a huge role in its ability to deal with multi-directional forces. for our control arm application we need some seriously stiff ****, its multi-axis force holding ability is lacking due to its hardness.
I've never seen a single application where what you state did not cause unwanted suspension binding. Don't get me wrong, that happens to a lesser extent with regular rubber, too. My point, is that poly is never the best at anything and always causes compromise. At least some other materials out there can give you the best of one spectrum of things, even if they sacrifice everything else for it.
its a smaller amount of movement then suspension, like i said, but they work quite well.
the best way to mount a control arm when dealing with only a lower control arm suspension set up is with a spherical barring, bar none.
i truly agree, but i've seen several engines (mostly in the military side of things) mounted on nothing but poly in three locations, the engine twists and rotates at different times and at different frequency's then the chassis but they hold up fine.
its a smaller amount of movement then suspension, like i said, but they work quite well.
the best way to mount a control arm when dealing with only a lower control arm suspension set up is with a spherical barring, bar none.
its a smaller amount of movement then suspension, like i said, but they work quite well.
the best way to mount a control arm when dealing with only a lower control arm suspension set up is with a spherical barring, bar none.
i have a 2.2 which has the stamped control arms. i have been eating through stock bushings like mad since i've been lowered. if i get fe3/fe5 cast aluminum control arms, will it hold a bushing better? i just had my bushings replaced about 2 months ago under warrenty and they are already going. when i had them replaced, one had somehow completely ripped/shredded out. it was just the control arm sitting on the metal of the bracket.
i have a 2.2 which has the stamped control arms. i have been eating through stock bushings like mad since i've been lowered. if i get fe3/fe5 cast aluminum control arms, will it hold a bushing better? i just had my bushings replaced about 2 months ago under warrenty and they are already going. when i had them replaced, one had somehow completely ripped/shredded out. it was just the control arm sitting on the metal of the bracket.
The OTTP CABs really are the way to go though, if you can swing the money for CABs and arms, do it. I love mine, actually i dont, I forget they are even there since I dont worry about popping out my bushings anymore, which is even better.
i think i might just get the fe3/5 control arms and if i still have a problem, i will consider the ottp bushings. i dont really have 400ish bucks to drop on the whole deal in the current budget
thing is i dont even drive that hard other than the occasional straight line pull. its not like i'm throwing it around corners or anything. less than 2 months and brand new bushings are gone...
thing is i dont even drive that hard other than the occasional straight line pull. its not like i'm throwing it around corners or anything. less than 2 months and brand new bushings are gone...
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DANRICKARD
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Oct 1, 2015 12:08 AM




