THANK YOU!

 

I agree 100% That's why I rock a 2.9

Couldn't have said it any better.

 

im not going to a stupid small pulley. no need too. there is other ways to make power with this motor, just not cramming the **** out of the motor with un-needed boost and heat.

 

Ok...Ok. I have been following this post sinse it started. So is running a 2.85" pulley, commanding 11.8 AFR, running 11.5 to 12.5 afr at WOT, Zero KR and IDC at 90% OK or should we be leaning her out a bit more?

Just curious. Thanks

 

I know my car puled/pulls harder at 17psi UNTUNED with the turbo then it ever did with teh blower with a 2.5 and meth...its ridiculously stronger

Now who wants to donate to my new alternator fund lol

 

That's not bad at all man, that in fact pretty good.

12.5 is lean enough. No need to lean it out.

 

lol call me sometime, we'll find some **** to sell cuz i still want a ride.

 

Sorry. I ment 12.1 and richen.

 

lol, my stock tune is about 10.5ish at WOT according to my wideband

 

Have been running 10.5-10.8 for a while now

 

Thanks, I figured that's why the stock '07 has a 10.8 AFR, the stock '05-'06 had a 11.9. They must ahve learned! LOL! :-( from our mistakes

 

You need to disable your COT to command a 11.8 AFR. At WOT mine hovers +/- .3. I tried different degrees of timing but could not get it from 10.8 even though my command AFR was set to 11.8.

 

Hey Denny

The tune I purchased was commanding the 11.8 but at WOT it was still producing hight 10's. once i disabled the COT it commanded +/- .3 from command AFR. So all is well now.

 

Still running well Kaisoboy?

 

11.0 commanded? or at the guage?
i mean as a limit?

 

at the gauge. think of commanded as a "suggestion" or what it would like to run, but timing and a couple other factors play into that. so it doesn't do exactly what you want.

mine is commanding 11.8, it runs 11.3 before the cat.

 

i have a zzp catless downpipe coming with the meth, so i pretty much have to redo the whole tune. the last guy that touched it did wot and smoothed teh ve table, and inj trims only.

 

you don't have to redo all of it, add a bit of timing, take out a bit of fuel, and you're good

 

oh no, my histograms are all over the place.
my ve table is ok, but maf is fubar, and partail throttle sucks.
see, my problem is i got a tune from tag, and wound up with 7 deg knock.
i took it to a local shop for a dyno run, and her called me at work saying i had trims issues, ve table was messed, etc. so i let him tweak it, so now its slower than a gm stage2
so thats a hybrid of 3 tunes pretty much, the car is surgy if it isnt at WOT, and i was real unhappy with both tunes. my 700 dollar dyno tuning session, got me less power and 13l/100km, and he blames the first guy. tag says it s the second, and so on. im redoing it from scratch. i wanted to compare the 2, and tag , nor the second guy wouldnt give me a copy of the tune i paid dearly for, so i managed to talk my tag tune out of the second guy as he backed that up before starting; i pulled my 2nd custom tune out with hpt., and got a stock stage 2 tune from the hpt supository. heh. now i know exactly what each did, and didnt do. if you were I, would you start over?

 

What are your mods? You should talk to some people on here about tuning. Maybe send them a copy of your histogram so they can make some suggestions.

 

also remember. temperature can and will affect air fuel ratio.

 

i agree, hence my t-stat thread addition. i am going to try two things, one is take out the center guts of a stat to keep stock coolant velocity thru the stat housing, and brian t5 suggested cutting some spring out of one. so im going to cut a little at a time off, and suspent the stat in hot water without letting it hit bottom, constantly stirring, measuring temps with a meat thermometer, and a digital pyrometer, and watching when it opened up.
i actually used to pretest my stats to make sure they worked before putting them in my
v'8s. imm shooting for 160 degF. 155-165 is acceptable. then ill readjust my fans accordingly. what you think?

 

fuel atomizes best at 190 something degree's. now. what you can do , is drill a couple small holes in the t-stat itself. better then cutting a spring. just an idea

 

that may be true, but the effects of power loss due to big heat in the coolant outweighs the fueling. i know i wont have to worry about COT anymore but cooler is better for the air charge, if the intercooler can run at a colder temp too, instead of leeching all that heat from the rad. as far as posting a tune, ill save that for hpt forum, and im sure if you have it yourself, you goto those forums as well. but i really appreciate your input guys. brainstorming solves problems.

 

the after cooler is on it's own cooling circuit, has nothing to do with the radiator