SCT Rides to the rescue of 2.2 owners!
ya me to. im plan on doing my cams and other supporting internals to make the cobalt good and my hopes is a 200whp car. though i may or prolly not be able to achieve. i got an exhaust and plans are
-gmpp performance exhaust (done) is 8whp
-injen intake is 7whp
-gmpp honed manifold is hopefuly 5whp
-(some sorta downpipe that will be best for what i got) another 5whp hopefully
-stage 3 cams is 20whp
-injectors idk what gains
and anything else that is recomended to hit that number or come close.
without nitrous
-gmpp performance exhaust (done) is 8whp
-injen intake is 7whp
-gmpp honed manifold is hopefuly 5whp
-(some sorta downpipe that will be best for what i got) another 5whp hopefully
-stage 3 cams is 20whp
-injectors idk what gains
and anything else that is recomended to hit that number or come close.
without nitrous
Every modification can work with or work against what you just changed. You don't necessarily add power on top of power.
Also, if this is your complete list, there is no way in hell you're reaching 20 whp with just camshafts and no fuel management. I'm sorry it's just not happening. Even if you did have fuel management, I'd still question it happening.
The injectors, the only reason you would need to upgrade them is if you're running close to the limit of the injectors (typically, higher than 80% duty cycle, you might want to change them). When it comes to bigger fuel injectors, you need to worry about how you're going to keep control of how much fuel you're spraying in all driving situations. This is another reason why you need fuel management.
Just remember that you can modify your vehicle and you could produce LESS power than you did before hand. It's all in how you are modifying your vehicle. There is alot more at hand than just buying parts, installing them and crossing your fingers for more power.
I'm in no way trying to bash you but just give you a better understand that this is the wrong state of mind that you're in. There isn't even a way for someone to say that you will even gain 5 whp with a certain modification even if someone else has done the same thing on their vehicle, every engine is different, every setup is different and you'll never replicate the same achievements. It's just way too many factors.
I'm sorry but it so does not work like that.
Every modification can work with or work against what you just changed. You don't necessarily add power on top of power.
Also, if this is your complete list, there is no way in hell you're reaching 20 whp with just camshafts and no fuel management. I'm sorry it's just not happening. Even if you did have fuel management, I'd still question it happening.
The injectors, the only reason you would need to upgrade them is if you're running close to the limit of the injectors (typically, higher than 80% duty cycle, you might want to change them). When it comes to bigger fuel injectors, you need to worry about how you're going to keep control of how much fuel you're spraying in all driving situations. This is another reason why you need fuel management.
Just remember that you can modify your vehicle and you could produce LESS power than you did before hand. It's all in how you are modifying your vehicle. There is alot more at hand than just buying parts, installing them and crossing your fingers for more power.
I'm in no way trying to bash you but just give you a better understand that this is the wrong state of mind that you're in. There isn't even a way for someone to say that you will even gain 5 whp with a certain modification even if someone else has done the same thing on their vehicle, every engine is different, every setup is different and you'll never replicate the same achievements. It's just way too many factors.
Every modification can work with or work against what you just changed. You don't necessarily add power on top of power.
Also, if this is your complete list, there is no way in hell you're reaching 20 whp with just camshafts and no fuel management. I'm sorry it's just not happening. Even if you did have fuel management, I'd still question it happening.
The injectors, the only reason you would need to upgrade them is if you're running close to the limit of the injectors (typically, higher than 80% duty cycle, you might want to change them). When it comes to bigger fuel injectors, you need to worry about how you're going to keep control of how much fuel you're spraying in all driving situations. This is another reason why you need fuel management.
Just remember that you can modify your vehicle and you could produce LESS power than you did before hand. It's all in how you are modifying your vehicle. There is alot more at hand than just buying parts, installing them and crossing your fingers for more power.
I'm in no way trying to bash you but just give you a better understand that this is the wrong state of mind that you're in. There isn't even a way for someone to say that you will even gain 5 whp with a certain modification even if someone else has done the same thing on their vehicle, every engine is different, every setup is different and you'll never replicate the same achievements. It's just way too many factors.
but forget what i said then. im curious. what do you recomend would produce close to 200 whp? i mean without turbo, sc, or nitrious. so please give a list. so i get some idea on what i need to focus on to save up and buy later on.
thanks for the insight. ive always figured some bolt ons are good for some hp. and ive always thought new cams with a tune can get around 20whp.
but forget what i said then. im curious. what do you recomend would produce close to 200 whp? i mean without turbo, sc, or nitrious. so please give a list. so i get some idea on what i need to focus on to save up and buy later on.
but forget what i said then. im curious. what do you recomend would produce close to 200 whp? i mean without turbo, sc, or nitrious. so please give a list. so i get some idea on what i need to focus on to save up and buy later on.

I would say the only way for you to reach 200 Wheel Horsepower (first of all you'd be producing more than 200 crank), you'd have to have work that engine from top to bottom to be honest. The problem with making an high HP 4 cylinder engine naturally aspirated is that you're only drawing so much air into your combustion chamber. The reason people turn to the boost route is because they are basically shoving compressed (or high pressurized air) into the combustion chamber. Highly pressurized air is also denser which means that you have more air molecules present than you would with air that is below atmospheric pressure. This means you can supply more fuel to cause a bigger ignition and create more power. Air is a key part of the equation to making power. If you can't draw enough air, you can't spray enough fuel and you can't create a strong enough ignition to create so much force on the top of the piston.
There are key ways of creating power:
1. More Engine RPMs
2. More Displacement
3. Forced Induction
4. Higher Compression
These are the most ideal ways of creating more power. To put it simply, there isn't an easy way for you to do this naturally aspirated and there isn't a gaurantee way. You could spend a ton of money on rebuilding your engine, tuning and getting it to run and you might barely reach your goal where as someone who just put money towards a proper turbo setup is running fine and has more power that you are, has a much more reliable vehicle than you do and better gas mileage.
This is just stuff you have to think about and do more research on. If you ever need any help, feel free to contact me.
It's no problem and I'm glad you didn't take it as an attack but more of just giving you some insight.
I would say the only way for you to reach 200 Wheel Horsepower (first of all you'd be producing more than 200 crank), you'd have to have work that engine from top to bottom to be honest. The problem with making an high HP 4 cylinder engine naturally aspirated is that you're only drawing so much air into your combustion chamber. The reason people turn to the boost route is because they are basically shoving compressed (or high pressurized air) into the combustion chamber. Highly pressurized air is also denser which means that you have more air molecules present than you would with air that is below atmospheric pressure. This means you can supply more fuel to cause a bigger ignition and create more power. Air is a key part of the equation to making power. If you can't draw enough air, you can't spray enough fuel and you can't create a strong enough ignition to create so much force on the top of the piston.
There are key ways of creating power:
1. More Engine RPMs
2. More Displacement
3. Forced Induction
4. Higher Compression
These are the most ideal ways of creating more power. To put it simply, there isn't an easy way for you to do this naturally aspirated and there isn't a gaurantee way. You could spend a ton of money on rebuilding your engine, tuning and getting it to run and you might barely reach your goal where as someone who just put money towards a proper turbo setup is running fine and has more power that you are, has a much more reliable vehicle than you do and better gas mileage.
This is just stuff you have to think about and do more research on. If you ever need any help, feel free to contact me.
I would say the only way for you to reach 200 Wheel Horsepower (first of all you'd be producing more than 200 crank), you'd have to have work that engine from top to bottom to be honest. The problem with making an high HP 4 cylinder engine naturally aspirated is that you're only drawing so much air into your combustion chamber. The reason people turn to the boost route is because they are basically shoving compressed (or high pressurized air) into the combustion chamber. Highly pressurized air is also denser which means that you have more air molecules present than you would with air that is below atmospheric pressure. This means you can supply more fuel to cause a bigger ignition and create more power. Air is a key part of the equation to making power. If you can't draw enough air, you can't spray enough fuel and you can't create a strong enough ignition to create so much force on the top of the piston.
There are key ways of creating power:
1. More Engine RPMs
2. More Displacement
3. Forced Induction
4. Higher Compression
These are the most ideal ways of creating more power. To put it simply, there isn't an easy way for you to do this naturally aspirated and there isn't a gaurantee way. You could spend a ton of money on rebuilding your engine, tuning and getting it to run and you might barely reach your goal where as someone who just put money towards a proper turbo setup is running fine and has more power that you are, has a much more reliable vehicle than you do and better gas mileage.
This is just stuff you have to think about and do more research on. If you ever need any help, feel free to contact me.
can i run a gmpp performance exhaust with a turbo setup?
sorry. but since this is the SCT. refering to the last post i made, can a gmpp performance exhaust with a 2.25 inch pipe handle a turbo setup?
The misconception is that you will experience some type of problem if you don't upgrade your exhaust system. This is incorrect. You will just be creating more backpressure than you would with a larger and less restrictive exhaust system. So whether you have a 2" exhaust system or a 4" exhaust system, your turbocharger will still operate but it will operate more efficiently with a larger exhaust system. The backpressure causes a negative effect on the turbine on the turbocharger which can effect how efficiently it will spool up.
Maybe that clears things up for you.
Ok, here's the info I got. I emailed them asking what it took to become an SCT dealer, if individuals could buy the software and what it costs.
To be a dealer you must have a valid business license and access to a dyno. The dyno doesn't have to be in-house.
It seemed to me that they don't offer the full programming package to inidividuals. They then suggested the "Racer Package" which I hadn't seen on their website.
They quoted a Pro Racer Package at $349. I think it comes with one vehicle license and you can purchase more. This may be a good way to go for a group. Have one person, who knows tuning, buy the software and others can buy a vehicle license.
I will post more info as I get it.
To be a dealer you must have a valid business license and access to a dyno. The dyno doesn't have to be in-house.
It seemed to me that they don't offer the full programming package to inidividuals. They then suggested the "Racer Package" which I hadn't seen on their website.
They quoted a Pro Racer Package at $349. I think it comes with one vehicle license and you can purchase more. This may be a good way to go for a group. Have one person, who knows tuning, buy the software and others can buy a vehicle license.
I will post more info as I get it.
The Pro racer package has all the software you need to tune your car yourself, form rasing the speed limiter to adding fuel, recalabrating your speedo for differnt size wheels. And as with all other SCT tuning devices they are all Vin locked to you ECU meaning you can not share your tune with anyone else.
I understand that but I mean, the way you put it was like if you stay naturally aspirated that it's the only way you'll have "torque" and that any other form of power adder won't do it for you...
Yo, I'm hella excited about this... now I don't have to trade up for the SS/SC and raise my insurance and car notes and everything else. Now I'll just upgrade to the 3LT so I can get what I want in my car, and then mod... HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HAAA
Can't wait for pricing...
Can't wait for pricing...
OH Sorry, But I am looking for lots of low end, and I cant stand turbo'd cars.
Not to be rude but have you owned an turbocharged vehicle before?
besides...adding a turbo will drop maybe 5 ft lb of torque from the turbo blocking the exhaust...i think your car can stand losing 5 ft lbs in the 0-2500RPM range in exchange for an extra 90 ft lbs in the 2500-6000RPM range...
just compare a stock torque chart to a turboed torque chart...theres almost no change in the low end


