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jdbaugh1
February 5, 2016
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Getting bed prepped for bed liner on 1995 F150
Getting bed prepped for bed liner on 1995 F150
0 2017/11/20 05:25:50 jdbaugh1
Bed liner application complete.
Bed liner application complete.
0 2017/11/20 05:26:22 jdbaugh1
0 2017/11/20 05:26:42 jdbaugh1
0 2017/11/22 09:22:06 jdbaugh1
0 2017/11/22 09:26:07 jdbaugh1
0 2017/11/22 09:26:15 jdbaugh1
0 2017/11/22 09:26:24 jdbaugh1
0 2017/12/04 05:57:02 jdbaugh1
0 2017/12/04 06:03:33 jdbaugh1
0 2017/12/04 06:13:43 jdbaugh1
0 2017/12/18 09:17:46 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/05 03:51:42 jdbaugh1
Picture of bypass actuator for reference
Picture of bypass actuator for reference
0 2018/01/06 06:41:13 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/15 17:53:01 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/15 17:53:10 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/15 17:53:18 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/15 17:53:25 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/15 17:53:31 jdbaugh1
T-stat peaking through the hoses
T-stat peaking through the hoses
0 2018/01/15 17:53:38 jdbaugh1
Subframe is dropped.  May even pressure wash it this time as the weather is supposed to be warmer for a couple days.
Subframe is dropped. May even pressure wash it this time as the weather is supposed to be warmer for a couple days.
0 2018/01/17 04:56:18 jdbaugh1
Subframe is out with front suspension components removed and everything else getting ready to drop the transmission for Quiafe LSD install this evening.
Subframe is out with front suspension components removed and everything else getting ready to drop the transmission for Quiafe LSD install this evening.
0 2018/01/17 05:12:49 jdbaugh1
Also going to be installing adjustable Koni front inserts.  Will be taking the YYZ springs off the FE5 TC Cobalt strut housings to the left and chopping up the FE1 struts on the right for the Koni inserts.  The FE5 struts are not very old, maybe couple years, so I am not going to ruin them.
Also going to be installing adjustable Koni front inserts. Will be taking the YYZ springs off the FE5 TC Cobalt strut housings to the left and chopping up the FE1 struts on the right for the Koni inserts. The FE5 struts are not very old, maybe couple years, so I am not going to ruin them.
0 2018/01/17 05:13:54 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/18 03:12:29 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/23 05:12:38 jdbaugh1
I first marked the springs because I want to get everything back together the way it was without confusion.
I first marked the springs because I want to get everything back together the way it was without confusion.
0 2018/01/23 05:33:51 jdbaugh1
I tried engraving the tops and the cups below them so I can get the same pairs back together after I wire brush and paint.  The wire brush pretty much wiped off what was left behind by my junk engraver so I used center punch marks for identification.
I tried engraving the tops and the cups below them so I can get the same pairs back together after I wire brush and paint. The wire brush pretty much wiped off what was left behind by my junk engraver so I used center punch marks for identification.
0 2018/01/23 05:34:44 jdbaugh1
Here you can see the center punch marks for aligning the spring cup with the strut top. The thought is this will allow me to properly align this part during reassembly.
Here you can see the center punch marks for aligning the spring cup with the strut top. The thought is this will allow me to properly align this part during reassembly.
0 2018/01/23 05:36:08 jdbaugh1
Drilled a small hole to drain the fluid.  The fluid in an aftermarket housing I tried to use smelled rank.
Drilled a small hole to drain the fluid. The fluid in an aftermarket housing I tried to use smelled rank.
0 2018/01/23 05:37:56 jdbaugh1
I just barely cut off the top as little as possible to still have full ID and to be able to remove the strut shaft assembly.  As long as it doesn't prevent the strut from reaching the bottom I see no reason to remove more material.  Leaving more material will help the tube strength around where the Koni nubs keep the strut tight and centered in the outer tube.
I just barely cut off the top as little as possible to still have full ID and to be able to remove the strut shaft assembly. As long as it doesn't prevent the strut from reaching the bottom I see no reason to remove more material. Leaving more material will help the tube strength around where the Koni nubs keep the strut tight and centered in the outer tube.
0 2018/01/23 05:39:22 jdbaugh1
Strut cut and innards removed.
Strut cut and innards removed.
0 2018/01/23 05:42:42 jdbaugh1
Rust removed and ready for rattle can.
Rust removed and ready for rattle can.
0 2018/01/23 05:44:21 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/23 05:45:19 jdbaugh1
Hanging to dry
Hanging to dry
0 2018/01/23 05:45:30 jdbaugh1
One of my old struts was an aftermarket universal strut of unkown brand that was installed on my car after someone hit the front wheel in a parking lot.  Absolutely no way to make this housing work as you can see here what the end looks like after I cut it off.  First of all the tube diameter is different the whole way down and they also have this strange end that was threaded on. Just no way for it to work which is a shame because I ended up cutting up one of my FE5 TC Cobalt strut.
One of my old struts was an aftermarket universal strut of unkown brand that was installed on my car after someone hit the front wheel in a parking lot. Absolutely no way to make this housing work as you can see here what the end looks like after I cut it off. First of all the tube diameter is different the whole way down and they also have this strange end that was threaded on. Just no way for it to work which is a shame because I ended up cutting up one of my FE5 TC Cobalt strut.
0 2018/01/23 05:45:43 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/23 07:23:00 jdbaugh1
35mm long M12X1.5mm thread bolts arrived that I anticipate using to pull the strut into the housing.  Once this bolt bottoms out I will switch to the ~25mm long bolt, that was provided with the Koni inserts, to finish pulling in the strut.
35mm long M12X1.5mm thread bolts arrived that I anticipate using to pull the strut into the housing. Once this bolt bottoms out I will switch to the ~25mm long bolt, that was provided with the Koni inserts, to finish pulling in the strut.
0 2018/01/24 12:06:40 jdbaugh1
0 2018/01/24 12:29:15 jdbaugh1
Used a punch to make identification marks prior to prep and paint.  4 dots
Used a punch to make identification marks prior to prep and paint. 4 dots
0 2018/01/25 04:43:35 jdbaugh1
4 dots not so perfectly matched here to indicate which top hat it was paired with.  Probably not necessary but I wanted to put everything back together just like they came apart even if the parts are interchangeable.
4 dots not so perfectly matched here to indicate which top hat it was paired with. Probably not necessary but I wanted to put everything back together just like they came apart even if the parts are interchangeable.
0 2018/01/25 04:43:39 jdbaugh1
Drilled out the previously bored drain hole to 1/2".  Because I left as much material as possible on the top end of the strut housing, my 35mm long M12 bolts were just barely long enough to reach the threads.  On one of the inserts I sort of rammed the Koni into the strut housing to get it seated in far enough so the 35mm bolt would reach.
Drilled out the previously bored drain hole to 1/2". Because I left as much material as possible on the top end of the strut housing, my 35mm long M12 bolts were just barely long enough to reach the threads. On one of the inserts I sort of rammed the Koni into the strut housing to get it seated in far enough so the 35mm bolt would reach.
0 2018/01/25 04:46:10 jdbaugh1
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