Eibach springs and Anti Roll Kit
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Joined: 01-17-07
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From: Hilltown, Pa
Eibach springs and Anti Roll Kit
Has anyone found any good pricing on Eibach springs and the anti-roll kits. I found them on tire rack as a combo for $457.00 and $31.80 for shipping. It's the same price whether you get them with the pro line or sports line springs. Has anyone found anything cheaper?
Also dos anyone know how the car handles with these? I have an 05 SS/SC. Stock suspension is nice, but i could use an upgrade with the mods i have done.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...S&brand=Eibach
Also dos anyone know how the car handles with these? I have an 05 SS/SC. Stock suspension is nice, but i could use an upgrade with the mods i have done.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...S&brand=Eibach
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Joined: 01-17-07
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From: Hilltown, Pa
By the way, the eibach anti-roll kit, and sportline lowering springs are awesome. I just installed everything in my car last week, and the car handles like a dream. I do suggest you get a professional to install the front sway bar, unless you are pretty skilled. It gets a little dangerous if you don't know what you are doing, and the last thing you need is either your engine, or your car falling on you. If you do it yourself, you are going to need to block your car up, and then have extra jacks to hold up the subframe as you lower that to remove the sway bar. You need to end up removing both tranny mounts, the steering column, and the existing sway bar. You are also going to need pneumatic tools. Including a pneumatic ratchet and an impact gun. If not, you are going to have a hell of a time removing the bolts. Especially for the steering column and the sway bar since they are set back so far. It took me about 2 hours to do the install of the sway bar. It is a lot easier to install both the springs and the sway bars together at the same time. I would suggest if you are to do them, to do them at the same time.
I would avoid the Eibach front bar, its overkill. Not in a good way.
and then have extra jacks to hold up the subframe as you lower that to remove the sway bar. You need to end up removing both tranny mounts, the steering column, and the existing sway bar. You are also going to need pneumatic tools. Including a pneumatic ratchet and an impact gun. If not, you are going to have a hell of a time removing the bolts.
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From: Minnesota
Thats a good pic!
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From: Hilltown, Pa
So i guess eibach after all these years of making some of the best suspension products, and taking such a long time to come out with this kit (most likely to perfect it), has no idea what they are doing when they make a front and rear sway bar kit. Am i understanding you correctly?
So i guess eibach after all these years of making some of the best suspension products, and taking such a long time to come out with this kit (most likely to perfect it), has no idea what they are doing when they make a front and rear sway bar kit. Am i understanding you correctly?
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From: Coquitlam, B.C.
lol, what he means is that the front sway bar upgrade is a little aggressive. I havent experienced it first hand but I would assume it would induce more understeer. I like the balance of the car as is but when I do lower I plan to only go with a rear bar.
no...i meant he was installing it wrong. While the way you did it works, the way Maven suggests in his how-to is MUUUCH easier. Before you say Eibach probably knows best, consider Maven is a GM master Tech, and on these boards, his specialty seems to be cobalt suspensions
Yes I am saying that you shouldnt have to drop the subframe, or remove the steering column, or remove both trans mounts(just the rear one)
AND
Yes i am saying that Eibach, the winningest suspension company in racing, with an excellent rep, and maker of parts I actually recommend to people on a regualr basis went way overboard on the front bar. Its basically worthless imo. Its way too stiff, its well over 60% stiffer than the FE5 bar. Not that everything from the track transfers to the street but think about this.....Cobalt race cars, with sticky wider than stock Hoosier race slicks, on prepared race tracks(WAY different than the street) only use the FE5 bar.....they sometimes dont even use a front bar at all........ WTF do we need a bar 60+% stiffer than they do for? Youyr front tires are just gonna skip across the tarmac, and god help if you dont have an LSD youll just spin your inside tire constantly. if you search around I believe youll find guys who have already purchased installed and subsequently REMOVED the Eibach front bar because its too stiff
AND
Yes i am saying that Eibach, the winningest suspension company in racing, with an excellent rep, and maker of parts I actually recommend to people on a regualr basis went way overboard on the front bar. Its basically worthless imo. Its way too stiff, its well over 60% stiffer than the FE5 bar. Not that everything from the track transfers to the street but think about this.....Cobalt race cars, with sticky wider than stock Hoosier race slicks, on prepared race tracks(WAY different than the street) only use the FE5 bar.....they sometimes dont even use a front bar at all........ WTF do we need a bar 60+% stiffer than they do for? Youyr front tires are just gonna skip across the tarmac, and god help if you dont have an LSD youll just spin your inside tire constantly. if you search around I believe youll find guys who have already purchased installed and subsequently REMOVED the Eibach front bar because its too stiff
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From: Pontypool, Ontario
Yes I am saying that you shouldnt have to drop the subframe, or remove the steering column, or remove both trans mounts(just the rear one)
AND
Yes i am saying that Eibach, the winningest suspension company in racing, with an excellent rep, and maker of parts I actually recommend to people on a regualr basis went way overboard on the front bar. Its basically worthless imo. Its way too stiff, its well over 60% stiffer than the FE5 bar. Not that everything from the track transfers to the street but think about this.....Cobalt race cars, with sticky wider than stock Hoosier race slicks, on prepared race tracks(WAY different than the street) only use the FE5 bar.....they sometimes dont even use a front bar at all........ WTF do we need a bar 60+% stiffer than they do for? Youyr front tires are just gonna skip across the tarmac, and god help if you dont have an LSD youll just spin your inside tire constantly. if you search around I believe youll find guys who have already purchased installed and subsequently REMOVED the Eibach front bar because its too stiff
AND
Yes i am saying that Eibach, the winningest suspension company in racing, with an excellent rep, and maker of parts I actually recommend to people on a regualr basis went way overboard on the front bar. Its basically worthless imo. Its way too stiff, its well over 60% stiffer than the FE5 bar. Not that everything from the track transfers to the street but think about this.....Cobalt race cars, with sticky wider than stock Hoosier race slicks, on prepared race tracks(WAY different than the street) only use the FE5 bar.....they sometimes dont even use a front bar at all........ WTF do we need a bar 60+% stiffer than they do for? Youyr front tires are just gonna skip across the tarmac, and god help if you dont have an LSD youll just spin your inside tire constantly. if you search around I believe youll find guys who have already purchased installed and subsequently REMOVED the Eibach front bar because its too stiff
Listen to this guy ^...the race cars ran with no front bar for atleast the first year of racing if not the 2nd year as well and I think they did pretty well
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