Pic of my new front rotors!
Pic of my new front rotors!
This is a pic of my new front rotors(sorry for the crappy cell phon pic). I also have Dezods new racing pads installed. The brakes work WAY better than stock. They are much more touchy and aggressive. It doesn't take much for them to grab! I love them. What do you guys think?
This is a pic of my new front rotors(sorry for the crappy cell phon pic). I also have Dezods new racing pads installed. The brakes work WAY better than stock. They are much more touchy and aggressive. It doesn't take much for them to grab! I love them. What do you guys think?


Sweet!!!!!!!!!
You take off the wheel
Take of the caliper as a whole, if you do it right you want need a c-clamp.
Remove Brake Rotor
Put on new rotor.
Put on caliper.
If brake pads hit rotor, then place c-clamp onto brake pad on the inner side (towards the engine) and tighten so that the pad pushes the piston back in.
Once it moves in slightly, release pressure (piston won't come back out dont worry)
Put caliper on.
Put wheel on.
Get in car and pump brakes, start car, drive slow to make sure brakes work.
Your done
They look good but I'd also be affraid of braking with them, theres very little braking surface on there
My rotors r not drilled, they are dimpled so they are not weak what so ever. Thats why i got them dimpled and not drilled. I hear alot about drilled rotors craking or worping under extream use. Dimpled rotors give a great bite and keep the the streanth. They r much better then drilled for extream use. As far as breaking surface goes i know what you mean and i was affraid of that to but its the complete opposit. These things grab like crazy!
Dimples make no sense what so ever, thats stupid to have them. The point of sloted and drilled rotors is to let and hot air pockets be removed for better grip and less fade and better cooling. dimples give no performance other than a reduction of it since there is less surface area....
Dimples make no sense what so ever, thats stupid to have them. The point of sloted and drilled rotors is to let and hot air pockets be removed for better grip and less fade and better cooling. dimples give no performance other than a reduction of it since there is less surface area....
my two cents
I installed the GMPP drilled/slotted rotors, i also had them cryo treated before I put them on. I used the Hawk HPS pads, and for right now I have only done the front set. It is a world of difference, the car stops like a different car. I had to do a pretty hard stop from 110+ last night, and the only thing I noticed was the rear tires losing grip from the front brakes stopping the car so damn hard. No fade, no pulsation, no warped rotors. I love this setup!! Only downside is that I have over $400 invested in just the fronts.
I installed the GMPP drilled/slotted rotors, i also had them cryo treated before I put them on. I used the Hawk HPS pads, and for right now I have only done the front set. It is a world of difference, the car stops like a different car. I had to do a pretty hard stop from 110+ last night, and the only thing I noticed was the rear tires losing grip from the front brakes stopping the car so damn hard. No fade, no pulsation, no warped rotors. I love this setup!! Only downside is that I have over $400 invested in just the fronts.
Yeah, but i used to get a little fade in one long hard stop from high speeds. When we go out racing on the highway, sometimes you have to brake pretty hard after a run to make it to the next turnaround, so I have done it a few times and can say as a comparison that this setup feels 20-30% stronger than the old one. It may not really be that much, but it feels great.
Yeah, but i used to get a little fade in one long hard stop from high speeds. When we go out racing on the highway, sometimes you have to brake pretty hard after a run to make it to the next turnaround, so I have done it a few times and can say as a comparison that this setup feels 20-30% stronger than the old one. It may not really be that much, but it feels great.
if you want to make um feel really strong, id suggest bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in. get some brake fluid with a higher boiling point.
i would say if your going to do it go with motul rbf 600. its the same fluid i use and it holds up really well and i basically never worry about fade unless its 95° or hotter during a track weekend. the next best thing would be some brake ducts for added cooling!
heres a link for the motul, http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml
if you want to make um feel really strong, id suggest bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in. get some brake fluid with a higher boiling point.
i would say if your going to do it go with motul rbf 600. its the same fluid i use and it holds up really well and i basically never worry about fade unless its 95° or hotter during a track weekend. the next best thing would be some brake ducts for added cooling!
heres a link for the motul, http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml
i would say if your going to do it go with motul rbf 600. its the same fluid i use and it holds up really well and i basically never worry about fade unless its 95° or hotter during a track weekend. the next best thing would be some brake ducts for added cooling!
heres a link for the motul, http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml
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