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Pic of my new front rotors!

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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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srt-killer's Avatar
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Pic of my new front rotors!

This is a pic of my new front rotors(sorry for the crappy cell phon pic). I also have Dezods new racing pads installed. The brakes work WAY better than stock. They are much more touchy and aggressive. It doesn't take much for them to grab! I love them. What do you guys think?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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looks tight.. i wanna put drilled/slotted rotors on, how hard is it to instakll them? do you need any special tools?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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Thanks! No its pretty easy all you need is a 15mm wrench and a big C-clamp to seperate the caliper to get it back over the new rotors.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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so that big nut in the middle comes off, and like where does the c-clamp go.. i feel like a douche asking you for help but oh well.. my bad
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by omgshesaboy
so that big nut in the middle comes off, and like where does the c-clamp go.. i feel like a douche asking you for help but oh well.. my bad
You take off the lug nuts, Not the big nut in the middle.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by srt-killer
This is a pic of my new front rotors(sorry for the crappy cell phon pic). I also have Dezods new racing pads installed. The brakes work WAY better than stock. They are much more touchy and aggressive. It doesn't take much for them to grab! I love them. What do you guys think?
THey are making me Moist.

Sweet!!!!!!!!!
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by omgshesaboy
so that big nut in the middle comes off, and like where does the c-clamp go.. i feel like a douche asking you for help but oh well.. my bad
NO NO NO.

You take off the wheel

Take of the caliper as a whole, if you do it right you want need a c-clamp.

Remove Brake Rotor

Put on new rotor.

Put on caliper.

If brake pads hit rotor, then place c-clamp onto brake pad on the inner side (towards the engine) and tighten so that the pad pushes the piston back in.

Once it moves in slightly, release pressure (piston won't come back out dont worry)

Put caliper on.

Put wheel on.

Get in car and pump brakes, start car, drive slow to make sure brakes work.

Your done
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pvirga88
THey are making me Moist.

Sweet!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! They look alot better in person.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by srt-killer
Thanks! They look alot better in person.
I hope you like going through brake pads
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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I hope it doesnt eat through them to bad. Dezod said their pads will do fine with them.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by srt-killer
I hope it doesnt eat through them to bad. Dezod said their pads will do fine with them.
Usually drilled/slotted will eat through pads pretty good. And you have A LOT of holes in those rotors.

They look good but I'd also be affraid of braking with them, theres very little braking surface on there
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:22 PM
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drilled rotors are useless unless your taking your car to the track. they look sweet tho
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rallyyellow06
Usually drilled/slotted will eat through pads pretty good. And you have A LOT of holes in those rotors.

They look good but I'd also be affraid of braking with them, theres very little braking surface on there
My rotors r not drilled, they are dimpled so they are not weak what so ever. Thats why i got them dimpled and not drilled. I hear alot about drilled rotors craking or worping under extream use. Dimpled rotors give a great bite and keep the the streanth. They r much better then drilled for extream use. As far as breaking surface goes i know what you mean and i was affraid of that to but its the complete opposit. These things grab like crazy!
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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gangsta.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 08:03 PM
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what kinda rotors are those
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Dimples make no sense what so ever, thats stupid to have them. The point of sloted and drilled rotors is to let and hot air pockets be removed for better grip and less fade and better cooling. dimples give no performance other than a reduction of it since there is less surface area....
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevypowered
Dimples make no sense what so ever, thats stupid to have them. The point of sloted and drilled rotors is to let and hot air pockets be removed for better grip and less fade and better cooling. dimples give no performance other than a reduction of it since there is less surface area....
looks good. but i agree with the above quote. dimples dont do a thing other than look cool. id bet if you were to go to the track(ie: road race) you wouldnt notice much difference from stock with it comes to break fade. well if anything you would get the fade quicker with the more agressive pad on there.

my two cents
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 01:30 AM
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I installed the GMPP drilled/slotted rotors, i also had them cryo treated before I put them on. I used the Hawk HPS pads, and for right now I have only done the front set. It is a world of difference, the car stops like a different car. I had to do a pretty hard stop from 110+ last night, and the only thing I noticed was the rear tires losing grip from the front brakes stopping the car so damn hard. No fade, no pulsation, no warped rotors. I love this setup!! Only downside is that I have over $400 invested in just the fronts.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
I installed the GMPP drilled/slotted rotors, i also had them cryo treated before I put them on. I used the Hawk HPS pads, and for right now I have only done the front set. It is a world of difference, the car stops like a different car. I had to do a pretty hard stop from 110+ last night, and the only thing I noticed was the rear tires losing grip from the front brakes stopping the car so damn hard. No fade, no pulsation, no warped rotors. I love this setup!! Only downside is that I have over $400 invested in just the fronts.
take it to a road course for a weekend and at the end of the weekend you will have experianced at least fade. you dont get fade from braking hard one time. brake fade is when your brake fluid starts to boil and your pedal will get smushy and you will loose most of if not all your braking power(over an extended period of time that is..id say with in a 30 min session you wont be really braking much at the end or you wil have already pulled off)
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 01:50 AM
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Yeah, but i used to get a little fade in one long hard stop from high speeds. When we go out racing on the highway, sometimes you have to brake pretty hard after a run to make it to the next turnaround, so I have done it a few times and can say as a comparison that this setup feels 20-30% stronger than the old one. It may not really be that much, but it feels great.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Yeah, but i used to get a little fade in one long hard stop from high speeds. When we go out racing on the highway, sometimes you have to brake pretty hard after a run to make it to the next turnaround, so I have done it a few times and can say as a comparison that this setup feels 20-30% stronger than the old one. It may not really be that much, but it feels great.

if you want to make um feel really strong, id suggest bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in. get some brake fluid with a higher boiling point.

i would say if your going to do it go with motul rbf 600. its the same fluid i use and it holds up really well and i basically never worry about fade unless its 95° or hotter during a track weekend. the next best thing would be some brake ducts for added cooling!

heres a link for the motul, http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 06:27 AM
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I dont know if I just missed somthing or you didn't put it. what kind of rotors are they I know the pads are dezod but what about the rotors
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by speedy_coop
if you want to make um feel really strong, id suggest bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in. get some brake fluid with a higher boiling point.

i would say if your going to do it go with motul rbf 600. its the same fluid i use and it holds up really well and i basically never worry about fade unless its 95° or hotter during a track weekend. the next best thing would be some brake ducts for added cooling!

heres a link for the motul, http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml
Hey you know your stuff!! I'll have to check that stuff out thanks.
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