Accidentally floored it in 5th. Bad?
i do this all the time... im turning about 2500-3000 rpm on highway, i want to pass someone, out of laziness, instead of downshifting, ill just floor it in fifth... i do it more than twice a day. lol
Also, if you floor it in 2nd with the a/c on and the sunroof open it's bad for the differential
Other than that .....some people aren't making the power to slip the stock clutch under this situation so they wont see it.
I thought this site was getting better ....... guess it will always be the Shortbus
It's hard to help people sometimes...... they have to see the clutch smoking for themself before they will admit they are wrong.
Other than that .....some people aren't making the power to slip the stock clutch under this situation so they wont see it.
I thought this site was getting better ....... guess it will always be the Shortbus

Other than that .....some people aren't making the power to slip the stock clutch under this situation so they wont see it.
I thought this site was getting better ....... guess it will always be the Shortbus

Do you have any sort of real proof here? Or just more pics of the shortbus you ride on?
I can't say I have done this every day etc, but I have on occasion and my clutch looked just fine last month.
Flooring a tuned SS/TC in 4th or 5th at low RPM will cause clutch issues. Not stock ....Maybe not GM stg1 ...... but custom or trifecta tuned car's that make more torque will cause the clutch to slip if those low RPM /high gear pulls are done regularly .
But that doesn't mean you're not making clutch *work harder*...YOU ARE... and that's why when you DO see slip, it will happen when you floor it in 5th at low rpms.
Are you serious ? This is more or less common knowledge .....at least i thought. Would you feel better if Term or BYT told you ?
Flooring a tuned SS/TC in 4th or 5th at low RPM will cause clutch issues. Not stock ....Maybe not GM stg1 ...... but custom or trifecta tuned car's that make more torque will cause the clutch to slip if those low RPM /high gear pulls are done regularly .
Flooring a tuned SS/TC in 4th or 5th at low RPM will cause clutch issues. Not stock ....Maybe not GM stg1 ...... but custom or trifecta tuned car's that make more torque will cause the clutch to slip if those low RPM /high gear pulls are done regularly .
And for the guys saying its a good way to test if you have a bad clutch
[QUOTE=wjsigo;5806098]
If there is no load on the engine and airflow in and out are unrestricted, then all you have is a turbo spinning very fast. It's not actually creating much of any boost, if any at all. In neutral, hold your engine at a steady 6,000 rpm. Notice how you aren't making boost? That's because there's no real load for the turbo's compressor wheel to push against.
i thought it was the ecu that would not let you boost in neutral?
YouTube - ‪Cobalt Turbo Spool‬‏
If there is no load on the engine and airflow in and out are unrestricted, then all you have is a turbo spinning very fast. It's not actually creating much of any boost, if any at all. In neutral, hold your engine at a steady 6,000 rpm. Notice how you aren't making boost? That's because there's no real load for the turbo's compressor wheel to push against.
i thought it was the ecu that would not let you boost in neutral?
YouTube - ‪Cobalt Turbo Spool‬‏
I'm not sure how all that computer part works as far as boost goes on these cars. I was just talking in generalities.
I suppose the ECU could open the wastegate, thus limiting boost. Other than that, it would just be controlling the amount of fuel through the injectors. Less fuel=less exhaust gasses to drive the turbo.
I'm just gonna shut up now!
I suppose the ECU could open the wastegate, thus limiting boost. Other than that, it would just be controlling the amount of fuel through the injectors. Less fuel=less exhaust gasses to drive the turbo.
I'm just gonna shut up now!
Seriously, why is this even being questioned? On a stock car, there's probably nothing bad going to happen. On a tuned vehicle you will slip the clutch flooring in 5th. That's one of the first things Vince (Trifecta) warned me about when getting his tune for longevity of the clutch, don't floor it in 5th.
Anyone that cares to argue otherwise, do your own research and then come back to the thread to argue.
Let them learn the hard way. There are lots of tuned people running around on stock clutches who don't abuse them and they last thousands of miles. There are some who get a tune and need a new clutch in a month because they do abuse them.
[QUOTE=094doorSS/TC;5808130]
If there is no load on the engine and airflow in and out are unrestricted, then all you have is a turbo spinning very fast. It's not actually creating much of any boost, if any at all. In neutral, hold your engine at a steady 6,000 rpm. Notice how you aren't making boost? That's because there's no real load for the turbo's compressor wheel to push against.
i thought it was the ecu that would not let you boost in neutral?
YouTube - ‪Cobalt Turbo Spool‬‏
this most likely is not neutral... car is probably on a lift or dyno
If there is no load on the engine and airflow in and out are unrestricted, then all you have is a turbo spinning very fast. It's not actually creating much of any boost, if any at all. In neutral, hold your engine at a steady 6,000 rpm. Notice how you aren't making boost? That's because there's no real load for the turbo's compressor wheel to push against.
i thought it was the ecu that would not let you boost in neutral?
YouTube - ‪Cobalt Turbo Spool‬‏
Ok so I went out and tested this today. I have a SS/TC with the RPD and the GM Stage 1. I know that the Stage 1 is very conservative and does not produce huge numbers like some have. Lastly I have a stock clutch with about 35k miles, mostly track miles. (I had to do this a few separate times to get all of the numbers and will be working on vids the next time I have a passenger) Got onto a empty freeway at 30 mph (or a little over 1000 rpm, probably 12 or 1300), put it in 5th, let it roll a little bit without hitting the gas then gave it the boot. HP jumped to about 50 and TQ to 75lbft. Boost did climb up rapidly It took about 5 seconds(best that i could count). The HP and TQ both slowly increased so I held the pedal down. The sharpest increase in HP and TQ was when I hit boost which we would expect. Buy time I was at full boost I was at about 60 mph (a little under 2500 rpm) but still not gettin full HP/TQ only about 180 hp and and 230 TQ. One thing that I did notice was that the motor was pulling timing and a lot of it, also the cam phaser was not acting the way it would if I was doing a 2nd gear pull from 30. The spread was narrow in comparison. (not too sure what that really means as far as what were talking about but I thought that I would throw that in there. I really dont see the problem with doing this. I am not suddenly throwing a huge amount of HP or TQ at the clutch. I think that where the biggest problem comes from when doing something like this is engaging the clutch at too high of RPM therefor slipping the clutch untill either you redline or until it finally it grabs. This would "glass" the clutch which we can all agree is bad. Like I said in a previous post. I do this "low RPM 5th gear pull" in my Ion very often and have 115,000 miles on the stock clutch. If all goes to plan I will be changing the clutch on it in june when I finally get my P&P head on and my 80lb injectors put on. Ill get pictures if anyone wants them ill send them to you. I have no idea how bad the clutch will look, probably pretty bad considering that it has so many miles on it and it gets tracked on the weekends but it never slips.
[QUOTE=damastah;5809369]
I know that this is off topic and i dont mean to thread jack (maybe it needs to be lol) but how does the "no lift shift" work? When I push the clutch in I still have full boost. Something else I just thought about... when I have my supercharged ion in neutral it shows 0psi which we're all familiar that this is belt driven so it should be producing boost whether im in neutral or in gear.
Silly leprechaun I really wish you would get out of my engine
Oh yea one last question. When you take an engine like the LNF out of a car to dyno the HP at the crank how do you get an accurate HP? Im sorry to ask so much in one reply but i just dont know much about this but interested
Silly leprechaun I really wish you would get out of my engine
Oh yea one last question. When you take an engine like the LNF out of a car to dyno the HP at the crank how do you get an accurate HP? Im sorry to ask so much in one reply but i just dont know much about this but interested
Last edited by ionit2004; May 26, 2011 at 02:12 AM. Reason: add another question
[QUOTE=ionit2004;5809458]
I know that this is off topic and i dont mean to thread jack (maybe it needs to be lol) but how does the "no lift shift" work? When I push the clutch in I still have full boost. Something else I just thought about... when I have my supercharged ion in neutral it shows 0psi which we're all familiar that this is belt driven so it should be producing boost whether im in neutral or in gear.
Silly leprechaun I really wish you would get out of my engine
Oh yea one last question. When you take an engine like the LNF out of a car to dyno the HP at the crank how do you get an accurate HP? Im sorry to ask so much in one reply but i just dont know much about this but interested
You need to use search features! Both here and on google...it's pretty easy.
As far as Supercharger..same as turbo. You need to be under load to develop boost..doesn't matter what makes the turbine/roots shaft to spin (exhaust vs crank). There's no load idling the motor. The supercharger also has a bypass valve that releases compressed air into the atmosphere when engine is not under load (under vacuum) which prevents unwanted boost.
Here it is on your Ion SC:
I know that this is off topic and i dont mean to thread jack (maybe it needs to be lol) but how does the "no lift shift" work? When I push the clutch in I still have full boost. Something else I just thought about... when I have my supercharged ion in neutral it shows 0psi which we're all familiar that this is belt driven so it should be producing boost whether im in neutral or in gear.
Silly leprechaun I really wish you would get out of my engine
Oh yea one last question. When you take an engine like the LNF out of a car to dyno the HP at the crank how do you get an accurate HP? Im sorry to ask so much in one reply but i just dont know much about this but interested
As far as Supercharger..same as turbo. You need to be under load to develop boost..doesn't matter what makes the turbine/roots shaft to spin (exhaust vs crank). There's no load idling the motor. The supercharger also has a bypass valve that releases compressed air into the atmosphere when engine is not under load (under vacuum) which prevents unwanted boost.
Here it is on your Ion SC:
Last edited by ronn; May 26, 2011 at 03:11 AM.
Ok so I went out and tested this today. I have a SS/TC with the RPD and the GM Stage 1. I know that the Stage 1 is very conservative and does not produce huge numbers like some have. Lastly I have a stock clutch with about 35k miles, mostly track miles. (I had to do this a few separate times to get all of the numbers and will be working on vids the next time I have a passenger) Got onto a empty freeway at 30 mph (or a little over 1000 rpm, probably 12 or 1300), put it in 5th, let it roll a little bit without hitting the gas then gave it the boot. HP jumped to about 50 and TQ to 75lbft. Boost did climb up rapidly It took about 5 seconds(best that i could count). The HP and TQ both slowly increased so I held the pedal down. The sharpest increase in HP and TQ was when I hit boost which we would expect. Buy time I was at full boost I was at about 60 mph (a little under 2500 rpm) but still not gettin full HP/TQ only about 180 hp and and 230 TQ. One thing that I did notice was that the motor was pulling timing and a lot of it, also the cam phaser was not acting the way it would if I was doing a 2nd gear pull from 30. The spread was narrow in comparison. (not too sure what that really means as far as what were talking about but I thought that I would throw that in there. I really dont see the problem with doing this. I am not suddenly throwing a huge amount of HP or TQ at the clutch. I think that where the biggest problem comes from when doing something like this is engaging the clutch at too high of RPM therefor slipping the clutch untill either you redline or until it finally it grabs. This would "glass" the clutch which we can all agree is bad. Like I said in a previous post. I do this "low RPM 5th gear pull" in my Ion very often and have 115,000 miles on the stock clutch. If all goes to plan I will be changing the clutch on it in june when I finally get my P&P head on and my 80lb injectors put on. Ill get pictures if anyone wants them ill send them to you. I have no idea how bad the clutch will look, probably pretty bad considering that it has so many miles on it and it gets tracked on the weekends but it never slips.
I guess i will have to make a video this weekend..... I just hate slipping my clutch on purpose . I have a couple different tunes to show .... mainly one with Vince's old boost ramp in table that is a lot faster then trifecta's current ramp in setting.
I'm guessing GM STG 1 has a more conservative ramp in than any other tune out there .... so you might not see any slip with that at that power level..... but they had a powertrain warranty to uphold hehe.
I can make my clutch slip on demand if i wanted to .... my car has 25K well maintained and easy miles on it ..... I'm also very easy on the clutch having driven standard for over 20 years ..... It's never been ridden out .... maybe 1 launch control launch and only a handful of NLS's in it's lifetime.
No, when you are in 5th gear (overdrive gear) and the engine is creating more torque then the clutch can handle, the clutch will slip, as in the 2 "halves" of the clutch start spinning at different speeds. When people use the clutch pedal it's the same thing, you have the 2 halves of the clutch moving at different speeds, and to get them to "mesh up" and get them to the same speeds, you slip the clutch with the pedal. The only time you really slip the clutch on purpose is when you are starting from a stop. On all other shifts the engine RPM will drop when you shift correctly and the clutch is really not doing much slipping at all.



dont wanna do that