best clutch?
Senior Member
Joined: 09-23-10
Posts: 770
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From: VA
i dunno, if you are tuned to point of needing a clutch other than OEM, you should probably be at a savvy enough level to know what type of clutch you need. If a shop did the work, and you needed a clutch, they shoulve recomended one.
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New Member
Joined: 11-13-08
Posts: 75
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From: Chicago
shop? for what o.O
bolt ons r easy to install
by stock turbo i meant full bolt ons on a stock turbo
and i dont think the oem clutch is good enough considering im tuned and will be getting meth soon
im just wondering what everyone has and what they recomend or r happy with
bolt ons r easy to install
by stock turbo i meant full bolt ons on a stock turbo
and i dont think the oem clutch is good enough considering im tuned and will be getting meth soon
im just wondering what everyone has and what they recomend or r happy with
The stock clutch on these cars will hold ~350WTQ if you drive using commone sense (i.e. don't go WOT in a higher gear at lower speeds).
If you really want a clutch be prepared to spend a but load of money.
If you really want a clutch be prepared to spend a but load of money.
I've heard good things about the exedy clutch with the ZZP adjustable rod. I'm going to need a new clutch myself soon and am debating between the spec stage 3 and the exedy. I just wish the exedy wasn't so horribly expensive
How are you liking that Spec2+? Thats the one I want to get. I want a slightly stonger clutch that is not puck driven to keep the street feel, but, thats not so strong as to blow up my tranny during a NLS or something like that lol
First off, I don' NLS since tuned. Clutch is strong & fine but it needs the ZZP rod to keep it from dragging. It chatters/moans a bit when cold but I expected that. I have never had it slip. My whp/wtq estimate is ~ 350whp/390wtq by my 4.4 sec 60-100 time. Haven't had it on a dyno. Some say I make more power than that, IDK.
The LWFW takes some getting used to, it kills easier than the 40 lb stocker that's for sure. A few reported issues with this clutch on the stock FW but IDK about that.
If I were doing it again I'd get the ZZP Stage 4 and keep the stock FW because I really like ZZP's support and quality in all the products I've seen.
The LWFW takes some getting used to, it kills easier than the 40 lb stocker that's for sure. A few reported issues with this clutch on the stock FW but IDK about that.
If I were doing it again I'd get the ZZP Stage 4 and keep the stock FW because I really like ZZP's support and quality in all the products I've seen.
Senior Member
Joined: 09-22-09
Posts: 757
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From: Akron, Ohio
Speaking very generally, dont go overboard.
Really high end clutches that are carbon or kevlar, they have real good heat properties, but if you spin them once they are done.
The reason you can spin your stock clutch over and over again and get that clutch smell, yet after awhile it returns to normal, is the resins in the organic compound. They melt, then re-solidify. carbon and/or kevlar clutches have no such resin.
Aftermarket single plate clutches generally have a stiffer spring plate than stock. Because of this they transfer a lot more of the shock onto the transmission. So yes, clutch X is rated for 500tq because it doesn't absorb any of it, it just transfers it onto the transmission. Also unsprung clutch plates transfer more shock onto the transmission than sprung plates.
If your really really really think the stock clutch isn't good enough for you, I'd recommend going with something twin-plate with a near stock spring plate pressure. It'll absorb a lot more shock than a heavily sprung single plate thus protecting your transmission, be less of an on-off switch and therefore more daily driveable, and still provide the added torque capacity.
I'm not gonna tell you to buy brand A or brand B, but I hope this gives you some insight into what the different designs mean and how they will effect performance and durability.
I still think you should get another OEM clutch, do your meth kit and what not and live on the OEM clutch before deciding to go aftermarket.
Really high end clutches that are carbon or kevlar, they have real good heat properties, but if you spin them once they are done.
The reason you can spin your stock clutch over and over again and get that clutch smell, yet after awhile it returns to normal, is the resins in the organic compound. They melt, then re-solidify. carbon and/or kevlar clutches have no such resin.
Aftermarket single plate clutches generally have a stiffer spring plate than stock. Because of this they transfer a lot more of the shock onto the transmission. So yes, clutch X is rated for 500tq because it doesn't absorb any of it, it just transfers it onto the transmission. Also unsprung clutch plates transfer more shock onto the transmission than sprung plates.
If your really really really think the stock clutch isn't good enough for you, I'd recommend going with something twin-plate with a near stock spring plate pressure. It'll absorb a lot more shock than a heavily sprung single plate thus protecting your transmission, be less of an on-off switch and therefore more daily driveable, and still provide the added torque capacity.
I'm not gonna tell you to buy brand A or brand B, but I hope this gives you some insight into what the different designs mean and how they will effect performance and durability.
I still think you should get another OEM clutch, do your meth kit and what not and live on the OEM clutch before deciding to go aftermarket.
Speaking very generally, dont go overboard.
Really high end clutches that are carbon or kevlar, they have real good heat properties, but if you spin them once they are done.
The reason you can spin your stock clutch over and over again and get that clutch smell, yet after awhile it returns to normal, is the resins in the organic compound. They melt, then re-solidify. carbon and/or kevlar clutches have no such resin.
Aftermarket single plate clutches generally have a stiffer spring plate than stock. Because of this they transfer a lot more of the shock onto the transmission. So yes, clutch X is rated for 500tq because it doesn't absorb any of it, it just transfers it onto the transmission. Also unsprung clutch plates transfer more shock onto the transmission than sprung plates.
If your really really really think the stock clutch isn't good enough for you, I'd recommend going with something twin-plate with a near stock spring plate pressure. It'll absorb a lot more shock than a heavily sprung single plate thus protecting your transmission, be less of an on-off switch and therefore more daily driveable, and still provide the added torque capacity.
I'm not gonna tell you to buy brand A or brand B, but I hope this gives you some insight into what the different designs mean and how they will effect performance and durability.
I still think you should get another OEM clutch, do your meth kit and what not and live on the OEM clutch before deciding to go aftermarket.
Really high end clutches that are carbon or kevlar, they have real good heat properties, but if you spin them once they are done.
The reason you can spin your stock clutch over and over again and get that clutch smell, yet after awhile it returns to normal, is the resins in the organic compound. They melt, then re-solidify. carbon and/or kevlar clutches have no such resin.
Aftermarket single plate clutches generally have a stiffer spring plate than stock. Because of this they transfer a lot more of the shock onto the transmission. So yes, clutch X is rated for 500tq because it doesn't absorb any of it, it just transfers it onto the transmission. Also unsprung clutch plates transfer more shock onto the transmission than sprung plates.
If your really really really think the stock clutch isn't good enough for you, I'd recommend going with something twin-plate with a near stock spring plate pressure. It'll absorb a lot more shock than a heavily sprung single plate thus protecting your transmission, be less of an on-off switch and therefore more daily driveable, and still provide the added torque capacity.
I'm not gonna tell you to buy brand A or brand B, but I hope this gives you some insight into what the different designs mean and how they will effect performance and durability.
I still think you should get another OEM clutch, do your meth kit and what not and live on the OEM clutch before deciding to go aftermarket.
I had a Clutchmasters stage 2 FULL FACE Kevlar on my 260WHP Camry SC..no problems for 60K miles (when I sold it).
New Member
Joined: 09-10-05
Posts: 143
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From: In my car
Your stock clutch disc is very likely in great shape, it's the pressure plate that needs to be upgraded as there is just not enough clamp load once you start getting towards 360lb ft.
ZZP stage 4 is NOT Carbon/Kevlar and is still a sprung disc. I bit the bullet on their stage 4 a year ago and it has been great. No complaints whatsoever, I've driven it through many miles of stop and go traffic without issue.
ZZP stage 4 is NOT Carbon/Kevlar and is still a sprung disc. I bit the bullet on their stage 4 a year ago and it has been great. No complaints whatsoever, I've driven it through many miles of stop and go traffic without issue.
I dont know about the LWFW. It seems to me that it being lighter causes less load on the engine thus not loading up the turbo like the stock one does. The difference is most likely minimal and unimportant but it stops me from going that route.
Ill need a clutch sooner or later and I think the Spec2+ is the one for me, especially since it isnt a puck clutch.
Good luck with your selection OP!
Ill need a clutch sooner or later and I think the Spec2+ is the one for me, especially since it isnt a puck clutch.
Good luck with your selection OP!
I run the clutchmasters kevlar full disc, and to the party who said it doesn't have the same resins as factory, indeed it doesn't however it does have resins from the manufacturing process, and part of the break in process is seating the clutch and getting everything worked in for the most clamping force to torque capacity ratio possible. It's not as forgiving as factory but it isn't as bad as you'd perceive it, they can handle more heat to the point the stock clutch would have been smoked for good, so don't worry about it if you get one.
I beat my car, just about everyone knows that, and this clutch is probably a dead ringer match for stock pedal feel and grab. I know it holds better as I am right around 350-365 wtq and it never fails me. I would suggest STRONGLY that you use a FULL DISC clutch as the segmented clutches really are a slip it once and it's done deal.
I beat my car, just about everyone knows that, and this clutch is probably a dead ringer match for stock pedal feel and grab. I know it holds better as I am right around 350-365 wtq and it never fails me. I would suggest STRONGLY that you use a FULL DISC clutch as the segmented clutches really are a slip it once and it's done deal.
I run the clutchmasters kevlar full disc, and to the party who said it doesn't have the same resins as factory, indeed it doesn't however it does have resins from the manufacturing process, and part of the break in process is seating the clutch and getting everything worked in for the most clamping force to torque capacity ratio possible. It's not as forgiving as factory but it isn't as bad as you'd perceive it, they can handle more heat to the point the stock clutch would have been smoked for good, so don't worry about it if you get one.
I beat my car, just about everyone knows that, and this clutch is probably a dead ringer match for stock pedal feel and grab. I know it holds better as I am right around 350-365 wtq and it never fails me. I would suggest STRONGLY that you use a FULL DISC clutch as the segmented clutches really are a slip it once and it's done deal.
I beat my car, just about everyone knows that, and this clutch is probably a dead ringer match for stock pedal feel and grab. I know it holds better as I am right around 350-365 wtq and it never fails me. I would suggest STRONGLY that you use a FULL DISC clutch as the segmented clutches really are a slip it once and it's done deal.
The FX300 System uses the Power Plus I Pressure Plate with a Steel Back Segmented Kevlar disc. This clutch is designed for the ultimate street enthusiast or weekend racer running a normally aspirated car equipped with cylinder head work and/or hotter cam(s), or with medium-boost turbo or super-charger, or up to 100hp NO2. The FX300 features only slightly increased pedal pressure, long life disc and positive engagement.
Im running the Cluchmasters Stage 4 Six Puck
Im really impressed holds well at the track
The ZZP Clutch rod is a must
Save yourself a ton of headache and chance of breaking your Master Cylinder and just pull the Master out to swap it, the way the master cylinder works its meant to lock as your try to pull it out
Im really impressed holds well at the track
The ZZP Clutch rod is a must
Save yourself a ton of headache and chance of breaking your Master Cylinder and just pull the Master out to swap it, the way the master cylinder works its meant to lock as your try to pull it out
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