Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys so I'm pretty much done with my f40 swap. (I know it took forever lol) so now I need to bleed the clutch but after doing some research on the topic people mention so many ways I just want to make sure I do the correct one.

So with all that said what's worked for you on bleeding the clutch. If you can please list what you used so I can buy that stuff.

Thanks

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Buy a 1.5" (I think) tub stopper, brake bleeder fitting thingy (the part you attach the hose to), and a mitty-vac hand vacuum pump. Put the hose fitting in the tub stopper, seal it with rtv. When that's dry, put it on the fluid reservoir. Pull 10inHg vacuum, then SLOWLY press the clutch pedal in and back out. It should take about 5 seconds to press the pedal in. Make sure you still have fluid, repeat five times until pedal is firm. Profit.
You can bench bleed carefully, and/or use the bleeder valve on the distribution block to save time but it's not necessary and you need to do the vacuum bleed regardless. Be sure to press the pedal slowly to make sure you don't blow out the seal on the slave

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Don't get the cheap harbor freight pump. It's not worth it.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Hey have a mityvac at harbor lol

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Get the mityvac not the harbor freight one that is cheaper.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Yup that's the one I have

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Or instead of using a plus stopper thingy you can use a appliance leg/furniture pad thingy and drill a hole in it to insert into the brake reservoir. I hope you pre-filled the tob it helps.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Like these

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Haha that's awesome I'll probably get one of those

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Ive always just bled it like bleeding brakes. Two person method. Quick and simple.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

that's actually what I tried but want to make sure I got everything out

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

if you didn't prime the tob, you already did it wrong. easiest and best way to do it is prime tob before trans goes in, which means, u attach the line and put other end into a thing of fluid, then press the tob in and let go so it sucks in fluid. then leaving line on....its nice if u have spare one, and putting plastic bag around it with ziptie, install trans, it will push some fluid out as it compresses. let the line on car gravity bleed till fluid comes out, quickly attach to bleeder block and ur done, no need to bleed after that, but u can for peace of mind. I didn't bleed mine after doing that at all and its perfect.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Did you bench bleed? When I bench bled a buddies trans we cut the clutch line off a junk car, stuck it in the bleeder block, put it on the clutch pipe with TOB installed, ran a clear line to the brake fluid container and pumped the TOB until the fluid was pushing out and no air was left in. Then when you install, it should only need about 3 two man bleed methods and it'll be fine. I made the (dumb) mistake of bench bleeding my TOB after it was used. It didn't work well and I would NEVER do it again. I thought I blew the back side of it out but it's been fine since. Scary to say the least. I ended up bleeding several times with 2 man method (I'd say 15-20 times total) and it's been fine since. It can be a real PITA since the bleeder is PRE TOB. I did the above mentioned vacuum pump method with HF pump and it sucked. It worked alright, but when had a real vacuum bleeder hooked up it definitely did better. Bench bleeding will 100% be the way I go if I ever do the TOB again.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Filling it first is the way to go. In my experience if you fill it first it needs minimal work after that. If you don't, the vacuum works ok to help get some of the air out of the system. The issue with the bleeder is you can add air back into the system if you don't have it on vacuum. The block assembly really USA **** poor design with the small little retainer holding everything together. The bleeder would be really cool if it had a check valve on it but it doesn't, so it can add air back into the system if it's not closed all the way with the pedal all the way down, before pulling the pedal back up.