Clutch bleeding problems
10-02-2016, 10:35 PM
#1
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Location: Eastpointe Michigan
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Clutch bleeding problems
I have blood the clutch at least 25 times I have clear fluid no air bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder bleed screw clutch is still engaging a right off the floor. Please help me I am a newbie to these cars 07 cobalt SS supercharged brand-new clutch disc plate throw out bearing in slave cylinder.
any help will be greatly appreciated thank you
any help will be greatly appreciated thank you
10-02-2016, 11:49 PM
#2
Factory clutch?
Did you try a vacuum bleeder? I have had great success bleeding it with vacuum as the factory procedure calls for, and seen a lot of people have issues when trying to bleed conventionally, although there are many who say it can be done without issues.
I made a simple stopper for the brake fluid cap opening and stick a little hand vacuum pump into it, pull down 20in/hg and leave for 5 min or so, then release and pump the pedal slowly 10 times, then re-apply vacuum. I do this 3-4 times while i'm buttoning up the top of the engine bay at the end. Once I get a nice firm pedal, I am done bleeding and never have to touch the bleeder screw or have a second person.
Did you try a vacuum bleeder? I have had great success bleeding it with vacuum as the factory procedure calls for, and seen a lot of people have issues when trying to bleed conventionally, although there are many who say it can be done without issues.
I made a simple stopper for the brake fluid cap opening and stick a little hand vacuum pump into it, pull down 20in/hg and leave for 5 min or so, then release and pump the pedal slowly 10 times, then re-apply vacuum. I do this 3-4 times while i'm buttoning up the top of the engine bay at the end. Once I get a nice firm pedal, I am done bleeding and never have to touch the bleeder screw or have a second person.
10-03-2016, 12:49 AM
#4
another method ive had work well on various hard to bleed clutch systems is to very slowly push the pedal down, hold it for 5 seconds then release it quick. the theory behind it is while slowly pushing the clutch down the air bubbles sort of stay put in the line, and while holsing they will move back to the part thats trapping them, and releasing it quick will "pull" them back towards the master cylinder, and they eventually will get worked out.
10-05-2016, 12:42 PM
#6
Did you replace the master clutch cylinder? If you put in a brand new clutch, it makes sense to replace the MCC right along with the slave cylinder.
When I purchased #3, the clutch pedal released right off of the floor and it was mushy garbage. I replaced the master clutch cylinder and it's good as new. No amount of bleeding is going to save an internally worn MCC.
When I purchased #3, the clutch pedal released right off of the floor and it was mushy garbage. I replaced the master clutch cylinder and it's good as new. No amount of bleeding is going to save an internally worn MCC.
08-07-2020, 08:30 PM
#8
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Join Date: 07-06-20
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Factory clutch?
Did you try a vacuum bleeder? I have had great success bleeding it with vacuum as the factory procedure calls for, and seen a lot of people have issues when trying to bleed conventionally, although there are many who say it can be done without issues.
I made a simple stopper for the brake fluid cap opening and stick a little hand vacuum pump into it, pull down 20in/hg and leave for 5 min or so, then release and pump the pedal slowly 10 times, then re-apply vacuum. I do this 3-4 times while i'm buttoning up the top of the engine bay at the end. Once I get a nice firm pedal, I am done bleeding and never have to touch the bleeder screw or have a second person.
Did you try a vacuum bleeder? I have had great success bleeding it with vacuum as the factory procedure calls for, and seen a lot of people have issues when trying to bleed conventionally, although there are many who say it can be done without issues.
I made a simple stopper for the brake fluid cap opening and stick a little hand vacuum pump into it, pull down 20in/hg and leave for 5 min or so, then release and pump the pedal slowly 10 times, then re-apply vacuum. I do this 3-4 times while i'm buttoning up the top of the engine bay at the end. Once I get a nice firm pedal, I am done bleeding and never have to touch the bleeder screw or have a second person.
how did you make a stopper please show me what you used
The following 2 users liked this post by ECaulk:
DeanSsspsh (10-04-2020),
Snail_SS (08-07-2020)
08-10-2020, 02:27 PM
#10
Or go to a junk yard and buy a second brake reservoir cap and modify it to hold pressure.
Or just spend the extra coin on a ready made one:
And as an FYI, I've never pressure or vacuum bled the brakes or clutch on this car, and I've had great success with having good pedal feel. It becomes a two person job though, but it's simple.
Or just spend the extra coin on a ready made one:
And as an FYI, I've never pressure or vacuum bled the brakes or clutch on this car, and I've had great success with having good pedal feel. It becomes a two person job though, but it's simple.
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